SFBMX88 LS2 Flatty builds13 rack smog legal flatty 5 lug shortened struts 6 speed auto to manual LS swap t-56
Posted 14 June 2019 - 01:57 AM
More fan shroud building. Jigsaws are great too!
I ended up overlapping the fan mount holes with the edges of the radiator core to hold the fan shroud assembly to the radiator. I borrowed a friends rivnut tool to install threaded rivets into the shroud for the rest of the fan mounts.
1/2" wide aluminum C channel was used to space the shroud away from the core. Ill try to TIG weld these together when I eventually learn how.
Drilled a hole in the bumper support for an M8x1.5 rivnut too. The factory hood release bracing will be modified to use this mounting hole.
Used some CAD(Cardboard Aided Design) to make the lower radiator isolator templates. Ordered a sheet of neoprene rubber to cut up...
Initial diagram for cooling system plumbing.
Keyser surge tank blank mounting flanges got bent and drilled.
Found some scrap steel rod in the gas station trash awhile back, so of course it goes in the car. Cut and bent to fit with some nuts welded on.
One mans trash, is another mans surge tank bracket!
Some June content to come.....
Posted 20 June 2019 - 09:55 AM
Thought I may as well post some of June progress earlier than usual. Who remembers S&M? Got the strut bars years and years ago second hand. Im gonna have to redo the welds on them. Ill probably build a new bar too. Surge tank brackets are all welded in, just needs paint.
Modified the hood latch support for radiator clearance. Braced it to the bumper instead of the lower radiator support.
I thought I would try one of those cooling system sacrificial anodes. Installed in the unused 1/4" npt port in the surge tank.
Havent used my pinch clamp tool in years. Silicone hose secured
Couldnt find a 3/4" male barb to 1/2" npt female at Home Depot Performance, but Amazon had them through Prime!
Originally purchased this 5/8" aluminum hardline for my Accusump install way back, but never used it. It will now serve as plumbing for the heater lines. Used filler rod to get the general shape of what I needed, then cut/bend the hardline outside of the car. Lots of back and forth here, maybe an hour per line. -10 tube nuts and sleeves joined them to -10 an barb adapters.
All silicone heater hoses done.
Edited by SFBMX88, 20 June 2019 - 11:05 AM.
Posted 20 June 2019 - 10:23 AM
Cut down my Mookeeh silicone heater hoses to connect with the hardline.
Flared all the lines with a Rigid 37 degree flare tool. Bought this years ago and finally get to use it too. Cleaning up your cut before flaring makes all the difference! Dont forget the tube nuts and sleeves before flaring!
Still have some fine tuning of the bends to do, and I need to make some hold downs, but theyre in there.
I couldnt bend a tight enough radius on the hardline here, so I bought a -10 an 90 degree female/female coupler instead.
This is what I did for the "steam" lines back to the surge tank. Block steam ports and radiator bleed merge at a tee, then dump into the surge tank.
Picked up some 1/4" aluminum hardline to do it.
Didnt want to buy another tool, so I tried making beads with my brake line flaring kit. Basically made a partial bubble flare and backed off. Seemed to work well enough.
Lines all bent.
Ran the bleeder return through the upper radiator support. Now I just need to find that factory cover plate I lost during the build...
Originally planned to route the bleeder lines over the engine, but this is much cleaner. The other line terminates at the factory non intercooled overflow bottle. Looks like 5 feet of hose was enough to cover everything. Just enough to reach the radiator.
I figure its time to pick up that TIG torch. Had to learn at some point! The cooling system needs one pipe welded up, and its aluminum. More on that next update though...
Posted 22 June 2019 - 09:33 PM
Edited by croquest87, 22 June 2019 - 09:37 PM.
Posted 13 July 2019 - 11:05 PM
Got some TIG practice in after cutting off the ends of two 90 degree aluminum pipes. I think I should've cut them with a band saw for a more square edge. The pipe cutter created a taper in the cut, which made a wide gap when the pipes were joined. This made for a more difficult weld. Either way got some good seat time in with the torch. Not making as many q-tips as when I started!
Removed the factory front chassis tie downs and made the final bracing for the radiator support. Cut out some 1/4" neoprene rubber sheet for the lower radiator bushings too. We'll see how they hold up...
More of that gas station scrap steel made its way into the car as upper radiator supports. Cut an unused bushing sleeve into quarters and welded all the pieces together. Bushed it with some old vacuum hose and shrink tube.
He really does!
Edited by SFBMX88, 13 July 2019 - 11:06 PM.
Posted 13 July 2019 - 11:16 PM
Got a pinch clamp set from amazon and went to town.
Decided to not reuse the OEM fan connector and installed a Deutsch DTP 4 pin instead.
Made a temporary hardline bracket for the power steering. Should hold until I figure out what to do with them. I didnt want to buy the off the shelf stuff...
Bumper mounts needed to be patched up, so I made some new supports to weld in. Just cut them out with the band saw and hammered the 90 degree in the vise. They get welded up in July though...
Getting closer and closer to road worthy!
More next month!
Posted 03 August 2019 - 02:11 PM
July - 2019 a
Made a mount to bolt in a tow strap with a 14mm bolt. Welded on underside of bumper support.
16ga front bumper support patches shaped over a vise with a hammer.
Got to painting...
Welded in some supports for the air dam flanges so I could delete the factory brackets and hardware
Found some larger stainless pinch clamps at Home Depot Performance for the 3/4" heater hose.
Shortened the radiator outlet for hose clearance. Didnt want to spend $150 on a bead roller I would only use once, so I made a former using a $7 Hazard Fright vice grip and scrap steel.
Formed the pipe support using a hammer and impact socket. The "die" was made using hole saw scraps. Used some pipes for leverage.
I wouldve just TIG welded everything, but Im too new at it. Tool results were acceptable.
Radiator side of fan harness knocked out with 12ga wire from the GTO, Deutsch DTP connector, and TESA engine bay tape.
TO BE CONTINUED...
Posted 03 August 2019 - 02:44 PM
Decided the put some Spal flaps in the shroud. Theyre supposed to allow more air to pass through the radiator when airflow at higher speeds exceeds the fan CFM. Drilled some holes, then used a jigsaw to make openings.
Adhesive foam to seal up the shroud and radiator end tanks. Should keep rattles away too.
TAH-DAH! Ready to go in!
HPS 1.75" to 1.5" 90 degree reducer hose and lower fan motor clear the factory lower radiator support. GREAT SUCCESS!!
My first TIG welded part! I still need lots of practice, but this will work for now...
ICT Billet 1.5" to 1.25" reducer for the upper hoses.
I clearanced this for the upper hose, but it looks like I didnt need to.
Had to shave down the catch on the hood latch because it was making contact with the top of the radiator. I still plan on adding some material to the side of it to keep the strength up.
To be continued...AGAIN!
Posted 03 August 2019 - 03:14 PM
Finally connected the alternator to the power distribution box. The only fusible link in the car...10ga PICO link protecting the 8ga alternator wire.
Some heat protection for the power steering lines running near the exhaust.
Got the car to fully warm up...Apparently it had a misfire which I didnt notice over the open exhaust. Engine still seemed to be running smoothly. I definitely have a better ear for it now....
Started on the exhaust system. The GTO factory cats off the donor were used, but required a bit of work as the previous owner must have deleted them at some point, then reinstalled them with sloppy welds. Had to cut them back quite a bit. Went through a couple bandsaw blades before using a chopsaw.
Who remembers *DM? Can I still say that? K D M. Never had any takers for this 3" exhaust when I was trying to sell it, so I used the back half for the swap. Flowmaster 2.5" y to 3" out. 2.5" flex sections too.
Vibrant oxygen sensor bungs ground down a bit for the circumference of the exhaust pipes.
Used some of the OEM GTO exhaust pipes since they had nice bends I could use.
To be continued again...AGAIN!
Posted 03 August 2019 - 03:44 PM
Used the GTO oem exhaust to make a reducer to meet the 2.5" pipes. I had to use 3" and 2.75" cut outs to step down. Welded the outsides first, then while still hot, I formed the insides flush and welded.
Passenger side pipes ready to be joined.
So Radwood NorCal was the next day, so I decided to pull an all nighter to get the exhaust done and have no shake down time. Not doing that again, as the following Sunday left me dead tired.
Lots of test fitting to get the downpipe/catalytic converter to clear the steering shaft. Added some wrap to help with the heat against the rack.
I only needed a single 2.5" u bend to get the exhaust done. The rest was GTO pipes, and *DM K D M.
Shortened one of the flexes to get the bends to fit in tight
Repeat reducer to meet the driver side cat.
Slip fit exhaust clamp to hold the pipes to the y
Unfortunately, I didnt make it to Radwood I started the car up with the exhaust built, and noticed the misfire...It was already 4am, and I was feeling defeated at this point. I decided to call it quits, and head home. Misfire counter on the OBD gauge showing the misfires on #5 and #6 cylinders.
Came back to it after the weekend to see what was up. More on that next month, but heres the rest of the exhaust fitment...
See you in August!
Posted 03 August 2019 - 05:11 PM
I have also seen rocker arms tightened too much causing slight misfires.
Posted 16 August 2019 - 07:43 PM
August is here and almost over!
So misfire......heres what I found....Connected a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold for some direction. The needle was fluctuating pretty bad at idle indicating a lack of cylinder sealing, so I checked all the mechanical bits. Pulled the intake manifold to find fuel pooled up in the number 6 intake port...
So the intake valve wasnt opening at all. I found that the pushrod was not fully seated in the lifter. Cleared out all the fuel in the port and put everything back and the valve opens again. No damage luckily. I cranked it over and heard a continuous popping noise...now what???
Noticed a bunch of carbon on the number 7 intake port, so I put my finger over it while cranking and could feel the pressure of the popping. Pulled the valve cover and found the exhaust valve wasnt opening either. Got it sorted, no damage again, and put it back together. Now it sounds normal. Number 7 was still contributing, but was basically pumping exhaust gasses back up the intake and causing misfires in number 5. This was most likely causing the fluctuating vacuum gauge readings too. I think since this is a gen4 ls block and has the castings for AFM in cylinders 1,4,5,7, the oil may not have fully pumped up the lifters in those cylinders on first start and let the pushrods come loose....or maybe it was just operator error
While the manifold was off, I put a bead in the evap purge line I cut down, and redid the brake booster vacuum line
Got everything back together and it runs great! No more misfires(that tapping eventually goes away and doesnt return)
Decided to see how things look out the tailpipe. Not even fully warmed up and its running super clean. Even when it had open down pipes and no oxygen sensors, the exhaust fumes werent bad.
While on the rollers, I plugged in the GTO cruise control switch...Still have to build out a set of switches and a new harness, but it works!
Almost 2 years of shop dust finally washed off...
Pulled the transmission crossmember to drill a couple holes for the last exhaust hangars. I just cut them off the GTO exhaust and welded them to the new pipes. Transferred the rubber GTO hangers and used some old bushing sleeves and bolts to hang off the crossmember.
So like an idiot I decided to reuse my old MK1 heater hoses. One of them ended up leaking, so I had to take time to replace them with a set of HPS 5/8" 90 degree elbows. I pressurized the surge tank with an air nozzle to get a siphon going and lowered the coolant level. No more leaks!
Used one of these bolt/stud things from the GTO and a p-clamp to make a hold down for one of the heater hard lines. Bolts through one of the brake line hold down holes.
I like allen bolts.
Lots happening this month! More to come....
Edited by SFBMX88, 16 August 2019 - 07:45 PM.
Posted 16 August 2019 - 08:03 PM
Picked up some adhesive backed heat shielding for over the exhaust. Still needs some interior floor barriers, but its way cooler than before. Cut out some cardboard templates, then cut the barrier out with a decent box cutter. Wrapped the fuel line in a heat shield too. Added more of those bolt/studs to use as hold downs for the driver side heat shields.
Added some heat barrier to the evap canister since it sits so close to the exhaust.
Revised the fuel filler neck breather too. The GTO filler neck vent line has a 3/32" hole to restrict/slow down fuel vapor pressure build up near the gas pump nozzle when refueling. I didnt consider this when I first assembled the adapter. The barb fitting inner diameter was way bigger than 3/32", and allowed vapor pressure to build up too fast causing the gas pump to auto shut off when refuelling(CA has vapor recovery gas pumps), even though the tank was nowhere near full. I ended up filling the fitting with solder and drilling a 3/32" hole through it. No more refueling issues the next time I put gas in it!
Tacked a couple loose plates back together on the factory manifold heat shields and reinstalled.
Built a mount for he AEM intake. I still need to build a partition to keep the exhaust heat away, but that will come later.
I got a clutch to break in now! Ready for the 60 mile trip back home...
Allow me to play for you, the song of my people!
This month is still rolling on! More soon!
Edited by SFBMX88, 16 August 2019 - 08:04 PM.
Posted 17 August 2019 - 05:56 PM
Posted 17 August 2019 - 06:31 PM
AFM valley cover on top, gen 4 non AFM cover on bottom.
You can see the AFM bosses in the top of the block here. The ports are being plugged. Im thinking there was just air here in the two cylinders when I fired it up and this let the pushrods come loose.
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: s13 rack, smog legal, flatty, 5 lug, shortened struts, 6 speed, auto to manual, LS swap, t-56
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