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Coolant lines mpi


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#1 croquest87

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 06:53 AM

Hello everyone   how's everyone running coolant lines in the back from metal tube? Some new pics would help  will be using Chads manifold and keepig heater core  thank you





#2 scott87star

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 09:07 AM

http://www.starquest...ant line&st=40

Page 3 actually has some pictures, I did mine slightly differently but its the same, you need to allow the coolant to constantly flow from the underside of the stat around to the steel tube and it needs to be somewhat restricted.  The heater connections are the same as TBI.
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#3 Chad

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 11:54 AM

I wouldn't do the way shown in those pics, it short circuits coolant flow through the block.  Water enters the front of the block via the water pump.  If you dump coolant out the front through that bypass in the stat housing, it doesn't flow to the back (out of the head) when the stat is closed and the motor is only flowing through the bypass system.

Although the stock system does have a path for water to flow like this through the stock manifold, what can't be seen is that the path is greatly restricted internally, there is a flow restrictor in the TBI manifold casting.  Not much gets through it.  If you hook up a 5/8" bypass in the front of the motor, not much will flow to the back port.

On the stock steel bypass pipe you want to connect one hose to the port between #3 and #4, this ensures coolant flows to the back of the motor at all times via the bypass.  You can use "T" fittings to hook up your heater core, or not.  Some cap off one of the steel bypass pipe ports.  I bypassed my heater core and ran a braided line from the #3/4 port on the manifold directly to the pump where that steel bypass pipe connects.   No matter what is going on, the back of the block always has coolant flowing to the back.

Depending on the stat you use, there will be some flow through that stat itself so it can get a trickle of hot water to be able to accurately read coolant temp. Some drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat itself to ensure there is always something flowing to get fresh hot water to the stat and CTS.  This won't flow enough to disrupt the cooling or warm-up process.

#4 psu_Crash

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 12:21 PM

I put a 1/4" nipple on the bottom of the T-stat housing and ran that back to the hard pipe with an adapter in between to make the 1/4" to 5/8" transition. It's been that way for a long time, so I can only assume it's working fine. If I didn't need the heater core I'd definitely follow your lead Chad.
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#5 Chad

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 02:04 PM

You can "t" the rear port and feed the core, one side of the core to the "t", the other to the second port on the pipe (that some block off).

#6 croquest87

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 04:19 PM

Shoot  what do l do now lol  just wanna make sure l don't starve anything of coolant or get wrong temp reading

#7 croquest87

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 08:54 PM

Sounds like both ways work  l will hook it up the way Chad explained it   thank you gentlemen




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