87quest_stv Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) Update: 05/08/12: I've been doing a lot of searching for the right deal to come along because my heart really wanted a 2jzgte. but my budget was liking the 1jzgte. Well I found a smoking deal on a R154 tranny locally and picked up a 2jzgte for a very decent price. So I'm only going to be around 400 more for this swap than my original guestimation below. So I've been doing a lot of research lately on this swap. One of the things I've found is the 2jzge and 2jzgte bottom ends are pretty much the same with regards to the block except, The bottom end on the GE does not have the oil squirters that go under the pistons like the GTE. However what I've read on all the supra forums is most guys delete these squirters anyhow. the 92-97 gs300 and sc300 engines came with same crank and rods as the 2jzgte but not the same pistons.(higher CR) Although the pistons are still good up to 600hp. If you go beyond those years you start getting into vvti and the rods were weaker. And a lot of guys actually opt for the GE bottom end (with strengthened pistons for high hp applications) So my thought was to get a complete 1JZGTE engine with harness, ecu and 5spd r154 for 1800 and pick up a good 92-97 2JZGE block for 200-300 and swap the blocks out. for around 2000-2100. to get my 3litre 1.5jz engine. I know I have to either use a 2mm GTE HG to lower the compression ratio, or replace the pistons with 8.5:1 stock GTE pistons. But I think this is a much cheaper alternative than buying a 2JZGTE complete engine for 2000, then a 1jzgte to r154 bellhousing for 300-400, then a clutch for another 400 with flywheel add 200, then the r154 tranny for 800-1100. So for the 1JZGTE with 2JZGE blockcomplete 1JZGTE engine with harness, ecu, 5spd tranny - 1899good used 2JZGE short block - 250head gasket - 175maybe new clutch - $200= 2524.00 ORcomplete 2JZGTE without tranny - 19001JZGTE to R154 bellhousing - 400R154 tranny - 900clutch and flywheel for 1JZGTE - $500= 3700.00 It seems to me the base application is much cheaper with the first way. Of course modding the engines to handle high hp applications will then be the same between the two. Edited May 8, 2012 by 87quest_stv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Good luck...Post updates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87quest_stv Posted March 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 (edited) The first piece of the puzzle is complete, I just bought a 89 auto conquest fiji blue. 125k on the clock, super clean engine and interior. Body is a little beat up with dings and faded paint. but NO RUST at all! I was looking for an auto so I wouldn't have to do much to the trans tunnel on the swap, I'm picking it up next weekend. I was there today. And forgot to click some pics of it. But I'll post them when I get it home. I'm still up in the air on whether to go the 1jzgte with 2jzge bottom end. It IS cheaper. But seems like there's absolutely no support for the engine here in the states with parts. Edited March 18, 2012 by 87quest_stv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieHARDmitsu. Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 (edited) The GTE motors have different cams than the NA one. They also have a water to oil heat exchanger. Intake manifold is also different as you know. The Motor will come with pistons and rods that are factory balanced so you can rev that muther to 8K, no problems. The NA-T option was an alternative for those SC300, GS300 guys wanting to put down more power without doing a full swap. But in the end most probably ended up spending close to doing a full JDM swap. I know money is often a limiting factor in building project cars or doing swaps as they are not exactly cheap. Still, I'll say, save a little more dough and go 2jzgte one time; don't look back. Edited March 18, 2012 by DieHARDmitsu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 If you use the 1jz head and the 1jz pistons you basically build a 1.5jz without the gte oil squirters correct? I know they both 1jz and 2jz are 86 mm bore and technically the same but are the wrist pins the same with the 2jz rods? The 1jz has a shorter stroke and are known to rev higher than the 2jz but I guess with the larger crank and longer rod you are gaining some displacement. I don't know why you wouldn't just push the 1jzgte to the limits and see where it takes you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieHARDmitsu. Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 If you use the 1jz head and the 1jz pistons you basically build a 1.5jz without the gte oil squirters correct? I know they both 1jz and 2jz are 86 mm bore and technically the same but are the wrist pins the same with the 2jz rods? The 1jz has a shorter stroke and are known to rev higher than the 2jz but I guess with the larger crank and longer rod you are gaining some displacement. I don't know why you wouldn't just push the 1jzgte to the limits and see where it takes you. I never like pressing and swapping use pistons and rods. Things can bind and go out of whack with all that force needed for pressing.I hear you on pushing the 1JZ to its limits....but whats taking you so d a m n long Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87quest_stv Posted March 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 (edited) From what I've read the 1jzgte pistons are interchangeable with the 2jzgte pistons. The block, crank, and rods are the same between the 2jzgte and the 2jzge with exception of oil squirters and I should be able to take the 1jzgte pistons and use them on the 2jzge block, and rods. I'll probably get some new wrist pins so I'm not reusing the old ones. I'd be keeping everything else for the 1jzgte, just switching the blocks and pistons. I still don't know If i'm going to take this route. All in all I will save about 700-1000 over this route instead of buying the 2jzgte to begin with. But If I can find a smoking deal on a 2jzgte and a smoking deal on the tranny and bell housing. Then I might just go that route. I've read the stories about the rev limit on the 1jz. going to 10k and beyond. But torque is what moves you down the track. I'm not planning to road race, But the occasional, "my car is faster than your car" race might happen Edited March 19, 2012 by 87quest_stv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87quest_stv Posted March 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 To add. Of course now that I have an auto car. I'm not sure the cost to add the pedal, master, and slave cylinders to the mix to make it a 5 speed. I may just keep the auto tranny on the 2jzgte purchase (if I decided to go that route) and call it a day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 I never like pressing and swapping use pistons and rods. Things can bind and go out of whack with all that force needed for pressing.I hear you on pushing the 1JZ to its limits....but whats taking you so d a m n long LOL...same thing that takes everyone so long...money. I'll get it moving sooner than later though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87quest_stv Posted March 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 this radiator should work right? Or will it be too thick? Should I look for a 2 row? http://www.jmautoracing.com/19861992-toyota-supra-megan-racing-radiator-rows-p-50867.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87quest_stv Posted March 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 Just got the car home last night here's some pics http://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/frontR.jpg http://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/frontL.jpg http://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/89rear.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87quest_stv Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 What part, if any, of the engine harness Do I need to keep? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87quest_stv Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 What part, if any, of the engine harness Do I need to keep? I'm gonna go ahead and answer this one. You can get rid of all of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87quest_stv Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 (edited) Is the ABS module the thing behind the heat shield on the passenger side fender? http://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/engout.jpg Edited April 16, 2012 by 87quest_stv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Yes you can ditch it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87quest_stv Posted April 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 I don't need a tranny cooler if I go with the R154 transmission right? I'm just looking to see what I can delete from under here to clean things up a bit. I got rid of the abs and ran a new line portioning valve, keeping the ac, what's the black round vaccum can that sits under the stock location aircan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 No trans cooler. Charcoal canister. You can delete all of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87quest_stv Posted April 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 http://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/engout2.jpg this is the charcoal canister? I see vacuum lines running from it into the car. Doesn't have anything to do with controls in there?http://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/engbay.jpg ABS delete.. what's this other black round canister north of the p/s reservoirhttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/engbay2.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87quest_stv Posted April 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 this is the charcoal canister? I see vacuum lines running from it into the car. Doesn't have anything to do with controls in there? I take that back, it looks like one of the lines is running across the firewall, then down under the car to the back. Maybe a breather line for the gas tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87quest_stv Posted April 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 ordered my new radiator. should be here next week sometime. still looking for the right engine combo deal to come up. Not in a super hurry to get an engine until I get the engine bay cleaned up scuffed, sand blasted, primered and repainted. Also working on the body too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 It is a vapor breather/recirculator for gas tank fumes. The little black can by the back is a vacuum reservoir mainly for HVAC and cruise controls when under boost. You can get rid of it if you want, unless you want cruise to work really well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87quest_stv Posted April 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 (edited) Ok got some more work done today. pushed the car out into the driveway to clean up the engine bay. My 3 goals were to degrease it sand blast it and scuff it. But only got the first 2 done. before I degreased it http://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/engout3.jpg After I degreasedhttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/engclean.jpghttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/engclean2.jpghttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/engclean3.jpg It was a bright and beautiful day then it rained all of a sudden. Ahh Florida. Love it!http://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/rain.jpg After the rains topped I pushed the car back out to start the first round of sand blasting. Still have the pull the steering box off and finish sandblasting this weekend.http://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/engclean4.jpghttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/engsand.jpghttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/engsand2.jpghttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/engsand3.jpg Edited April 20, 2012 by 87quest_stv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87quest_stv Posted May 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 picked up a R154 today. Got a super great deal on it. Needs a clutch fork and throw out bearing. Hope I can find them http://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/R154.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87quest_stv Posted May 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 So I'm toying with the idea of bedlining my engine bay. What are everyone's thoughts on this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave-O Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 I'm not sure how well it would handle the heat off the exhaust, that would be my only concern. Else, I think it'd be fine. Most underhood temps are below 250-degrees. Maybe tossing some header wrap on the downpipe or a turbo blanket on the turbine-side would help enough to keep things from going up in smoke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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