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1989 Conquest timing issues


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#1 Bennymac

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 04:36 PM

I need help guys. The unfortunate thing is I donít have a factory OEM distributor so all the information given has not applied so far. At least I donít think so. What Iíve read from previous post and I canít clarify is why you may have to turn the crank 30 to 40 times to line everything back up. I have the manual but it doesnít apply because of the stupid dizzy. I have tried everything that I know what to do at least 3 times. It all started with what I think was a bad fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump, I have ample spark, new plugs, new distributor cap, and have followed instructions to the T to find TDC and have all index marks in place. To be honest Iím not even sure if itís the timing. But I want to eliminate that factor for sure. I have set the crank on the T and the timing gear seams to be pretty close to lining up with valve cover and head surface. When you line up the pin hole on the timing chain gear to be exactly in line with the valve cover. The timing mark on the crank is passed the T and would read about 20-25 degrees. Instead of directly on the T. Going clockwise passed the T. I hope that made sense. Iíve messed with it countless hours now and my love for the car is dwindling. The car was running beautifully and strong with zero problems before it hesitated real bad on the interstate one morning as I thought I was out of gas. I tested fuel pressure and it was 0. Thatís when I ordered a fuel pump but for some crazy reason I messed with the distributor and the timing also. Now Iím not sure where Iím at. I feel like a jackass right now. Please help me.





#2 croquest87

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 05:00 PM

Your chain must have skipped one tooth.If your crank is at TDC zero mark  hole where the pin goes through distributor gear through the timing chain gear into the cam should be at 12 O clock. Otherwise problems. What dizzy do you have? Any numbers on it? Still stock everything else?  Need some info before we can help you and strong will to get this resolved.If this was ever timed 180 deg off at any point your valves could have smacked the pistons and will not run right till that's fixed just heads up.

Edited by croquest87, 20 July 2018 - 05:14 PM.


#3 Bennymac

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 05:32 PM

Gotcha, T1T42171 is the main number on the distributor. There is a 4 digit number below that says 9310. This is Ben from TN. I am running Mega squirt ECU. Pretty much factory everything else. Trilogy injectors, MSD blaster 2 ignition coil. The pin the goes through the cam gear does line up at 12oclock when the T timing mark is lined up on crank. But the tiny pin hole on timing gear seams to be at more like 12:12 instead of 12:15 aligning with the valve cover and the head.

#4 Bennymac

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 05:38 PM

I need to check hole through the gear of the distributor gear and see if that is at 12:00.

#5 Bennymac

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 05:48 PM

Iím sorry I think I read that wrong. Iíll wait till next response befor I do anything else.

#6 Preludedude

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 07:23 PM

View Postcroquest87, on 20 July 2018 - 05:00 PM, said:

Your chain must have skipped one tooth.If your crank is at TDC zero mark  hole where the pin goes through distributor gear through the timing chain gear into the cam should be at 12 O clock. Otherwise problems. What dizzy do you have? Any numbers on it? Still stock everything else?  Need some info before we can help you and strong will to get this resolved.If this was ever timed 180 deg off at any point your valves could have smacked the pistons and will not run right till that's fixed just heads up.

G54Bs are non-interference......

#7 Bennymac

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 07:44 PM

Ok Iíve got the valve cover off. Crank is on the T. About to attemp the placement of the distributor back into position. My distributor that is currently on the car that was running perfectly before. The location of piston number 1 on the distributor is about at 9:47 that is where it was located before I ever moved anything. I made marks with a sharpie to find exact location before I took it apart. When I line up the dot on the small gear next to the pin on the distributor rod and push it into position the rotor button is exactly 180 degrees away from piston number 1 inside the rotor cap. Does that mean I ruined something? I have it apart right now looking at it but am tired of taking it apart and back together a 1,000 times. Iíll do it a 1,000 more times if I have to but could someone relate or explain what to do from here. Thanks you guys for real. I want this back on the road. Itís been about 2 or 3 weeks. Please help me!!!

#8 croquest87

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 07:53 PM

View PostPreludedude, on 20 July 2018 - 07:23 PM, said:



G54Bs are non-interference......

It happend on my last motor.When they hit freaking pin that goes through the dizzy gear and timing gear into the camshaft snapped right off. Valves bent and marks on pistons. My idiot mechanic set it 180 deg off. You could be wrong on this one Preludedude. Brand new Oddesa cylinder head destroyed. How did it hit the pistons if not interference motor? Unless that new cylinder head came w longer valves or something.

Edited by croquest87, 20 July 2018 - 08:04 PM.


#9 Bennymac

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 07:57 PM

I must also not that when the crank is at T and the pin through the big timing chain gear is at 12:00 the pin hole on the big timing gear is about 1 chain link above the valve cover and head when I put a straight edge on top of head where the valve cover seats.

#10 Preludedude

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 08:01 PM

View Postcroquest87, on 20 July 2018 - 07:53 PM, said:

It happend on my last motor.When they hit freaking pin that goes through the dizzy gear and timing gear into the camshaft snapped right off. Valves bent and marks on pistons. My idiot mechanic set it 180 deg off. You could be wrong on this one Preludedude. Brand new Oddesa cylinder head destroyed.

Im pretty sure with a stock cam and stock pistons in a completely stock engine, it is non-interference....Once you start changing things, then that may change....

Edited by Preludedude, 20 July 2018 - 08:01 PM.


#11 croquest87

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 08:09 PM

View PostPreludedude, on 20 July 2018 - 08:01 PM, said:



Im pretty sure with a stock cam and stock pistons in a completely stock engine, it is non-interference....Once you start changing things, then that may change....
Only thing l can think longer valves came w new cylinder head or some crap.l pulled my car from the shop imidietly and rebuilt the whole thing myself had Randy do the machine work. I guess l will never know  took that cylinder head and put it in trash can.

#12 Bennymac

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 08:38 PM

Hey guys Iím still in a bind here. Is there anyway someone could guide me a little bit. I hate to sound like a little Bi:Ē@ch. but Iím going nuts. Where should I go from here?

#13 croquest87

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 08:43 PM

Pmd you  sorry man we just like mechanics lol  anyway l sent you my number in pm call me l will try to help you out

Dra

Edited by croquest87, 20 July 2018 - 08:55 PM.


#14 Bennymac

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 08:44 PM

One thing that Iím still confused about is Dad said in a previous conversation that the crank may have to be turned over 30 to 40 times. To line everything back up. Did I read that wrong or misunderstand what he was saying? Shouldnít I be able to put the crank at T position line up the rotor button on piston number 1 inside the rotor cap and it should be in time with itself? I donít know man.

#15 croquest87

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 09:02 PM

Piston number one needs to be at tdc  timing mark on zero  crank gear at 3oclock and cam pin at 12o clock     after you do this  you install your dizzy  dot and line on distributor  lined up and both pointing vertical  slide that sucker right in.

I also have an old rotor cap w hole drilled in it on #1 That way l can see the rotor line up to fire cyl one  it's easier to install that way when valve cover is on and you can see when it's lined up!

Pretty simple

Edited by croquest87, 20 July 2018 - 09:20 PM.


#16 Bennymac

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 11:20 PM

Ok thank you. I feel like timing is in order. Now on to the next thing it still is not running. Not sure where to go from here. Got fire, fuel, and timing is correct. Gonna have to dig deeper.




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