Jump to content



Car starts, then dies after a second, however if you leave the ISC for 15s to zip, car starts and runs


  • Please log in to reply
10 replies to this topic

#1 seb

seb

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 55 posts
  • Location:Kent, UK

Posted 09 August 2019 - 03:56 AM

As above, tried changing out lots of different sensors, components to no avail.

Try starting the car, it will fire straight up, but will then die after a second. It's not losing spark and the fuel pump is still running.

If i turn the ignition on and leave it for 15 seconds or so the ISC zips back a bit and the car will start and run, usually it then starts with lower revs and builds up.

Sometimes if i turn the ignition on and pull the connector off the CTS then put it on and off a few times, it gets the ISC to move and will let the car run.

I have tried a new CTS.

I have done the TPS reset a number of times.

I swapped out my ECU for another from a spares car, first of all this let the car start and run just fine, then after about 200 miles, the car broke down on me and would not start. The fault code was no ignition pulse and could see that everything was working but the injectors were not getting a signal to fire.

I have since put my old ecu back in as at least i can get my car to run. This ecu gives me fault codes 3 and 4, boost pressure sensor and MAF

Has anybody had any issues like this before? Any suggestions? I'm really stuck now and don't know where to go :S

Is there a chance it is my ecu and i've just had some serious bad luck with both?

Thanks for any help/advice





#2 Turbo Cary

Turbo Cary

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,737 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Charleston, South Carolina
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 09 August 2019 - 04:59 AM

What year is your car? What injectors are you using? What ISC are you using? What are the part numbers on the ECUs you are trying to swap.

ECUs changed part numbers almost every year and after 86 require different ISC, knock boxes etc.

You have a fault code for no ignition pulse so did you try swapping in a good known distributor? Did you check the wires inside the distributor at the pick up coil? How is the ignition coil itself? Did you swap that out?

#3 seb

seb

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 55 posts
  • Location:Kent, UK

Posted 09 August 2019 - 06:35 AM

My car is a late narrowbody 1987 2.0 UK spec. It's a bit of a mix, as it's late with 5 stud, but the metal airdam and no 3 piece rear spoiler.

They are the standard injectors, think they are grey in colour. Which number is the important number on the ecu? i take it it's not the MD number but the one below it?

I didn't change the distributor as i knew the tach needle is bouncing and by switching back to the old ecu i could get the to run, surely if the dizzy was bad it wouldn't send a signal to allow it to run at all?

I've swapped the ignition coil for another and associated ballast resistor

cheers

#4 seb

seb

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 55 posts
  • Location:Kent, UK

Posted 09 August 2019 - 07:46 AM

The ecu i put in that lasted around 200 miles of driving has the numbers:
MD073791
E2T11581
5Y13

I'm not sure of the other one until i get back from work

#5 Turbo Cary

Turbo Cary

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,737 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Charleston, South Carolina
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 09 August 2019 - 09:27 PM

There is a list somewhere of all the ECU numbers and what year they correspond to. Early style ISCs had one plug and no motor position sensor while the later style were two plugs. Also the knock box could be an issue. Have you swapped with another one? The early style plastic ones are known to have solder failures.

#6 markhansenconquest

markhansenconquest

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 3,491 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:temecula,ca
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 10 August 2019 - 08:53 AM

Clean ALL the gueeeeee grease out of ISC   worm gear ( behind rubber boot ) ......................sounds like its sticking..............
They all need it doneeeeeeeeeeeeee ........   Grease is like grease in the wiper motor  that makes them run slow...............
I don t  know if u can mix parts  from a 2.6 to a 2.0..................??
I have some ECU s I  don't even know what year they came from  ?? I sell parts if U need some............

Edited by markhansenconquest, 10 August 2019 - 12:17 PM.


#7 seb

seb

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 55 posts
  • Location:Kent, UK

Posted 12 August 2019 - 01:56 AM

View PostTurbo Cary, on 09 August 2019 - 09:27 PM, said:

There is a list somewhere of all the ECU numbers and what year they correspond to. Early style ISCs had one plug and no motor position sensor while the later style were two plugs. Also the knock box could be an issue. Have you swapped with another one? The early style plastic ones are known to have solder failures.

Ah ok, mine is the later style then with MPS. I have tried another known good unit and it makes no difference. I've also tried another knock box, again no difference.
I borrowed a good ecu from my dad's wb just to test my car, car starts first time and runs great.......so it must just be an ecu issue :S

#8 seb

seb

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 55 posts
  • Location:Kent, UK

Posted 12 August 2019 - 02:01 AM

View Postmarkhansenconquest, on 10 August 2019 - 08:53 AM, said:

Clean ALL the gueeeeee grease out of ISC   worm gear ( behind rubber boot ) ......................sounds like its sticking..............
They all need it doneeeeeeeeeeeeee ........   Grease is like grease in the wiper motor  that makes them run slow...............
I don t  know if u can mix parts  from a 2.6 to a 2.0..................??
I have some ECU s I  don't even know what year they came from  ?? I sell parts if U need some............

I have tried another good working unit and it's still the same. I'm in the UK, so will hav eto get one from a UK car as believe 2.6 is different. Over in the states what side is your ecu mounted? I know mine is mounted in the passenger (LH) kick panel

#9 ucw458

ucw458

    This will mean the extinction of all life forms on this planet.

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,611 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Colorado
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 12 August 2019 - 02:38 AM

This may be different on the 2.0 cars, but on the 2.6 the 87-89 cars have a nose switch on the ISC.  The 83-86 cars do not iirc.  The nose switch is at the tip of the ISC and tells the ECU when your foot is on/off the gas.  That way the ECU knows when it should be at idle or not.  It also controls fuel cut on rapid decel.  A bad nose switch or mix and matching incompatible parts has been known to cause idle and drivability issues..

Also if you changed the ISC, TPS or did any fiddling with throttle body adjustments you must do a TPS/ISC reset.  That sets the starting point the fuel system references from.  The ECU cannot compensate for a TPS/ISC not adjusted correctly.
My 87
Posted Image

#10 seb

seb

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 55 posts
  • Location:Kent, UK

Posted 12 August 2019 - 03:46 AM

There is a nose switch on there which i have checked and it is working correctly, i've also carried out the TPS reset procedure a number of times but it has not made a difference.
Where is the ECU located on a US quest?

#11 Turbo Cary

Turbo Cary

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,737 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Charleston, South Carolina
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 12 August 2019 - 09:02 AM

View Postseb, on 12 August 2019 - 03:46 AM, said:

There is a nose switch on there which i have checked and it is working correctly, i've also carried out the TPS reset procedure a number of times but it has not made a difference.
Where is the ECU located on a US quest?

ECU is located in the passenger kick panel on US cars. The TPS reset should be done anytime an ECU is swapped.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users