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Over heating??


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#21 Rapom

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Posted 26 June 2019 - 08:38 PM

Dad' i timed it with a light. Engine warmed up (i got the sweet spot at around 190* closed loop but not too hot) engine idle holds a perfect 750-800ish (on the gauge) timing was set to 10* Btdc. (The 10 thats on the left side of the scale.. passenger side so to speak.)

I hope its not running lean.. i do not have a wideband. I know for a fact that it has 38-39 fuel psi at the throttle body (i have a gauge screwed into it...not my doing but its usefull)

Even if i baby it shifting under 2k no ac pissing people off behind me.. not using boost at all its still getting hot.

I will not re-rod my current or buy a cheap rad. I need to eliminate all possibilities that the rodding was not great or the it fits good enough to work radiator but cools poorly are out of the equation. If the rad and waterpump dont fix the issue then the head may have to come back off.. id like to have no doubt its the head if it comes down to that. May order the cx tonight. Have fam coming in town and sis in law going into labor so things may get slow for a week or 2.





#22 Freequest

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Posted 26 June 2019 - 08:57 PM

+1 for what Scott said, the flow is from top to bottom, the thermostat will open and let hot coolant out into the radiator, then back in through the lower hose. If coolant comes into the engine at 180 it isn't going to cool anything. If you're looking for something to try in the driveway before taking the radiator to a shop you can try flushing the system with vinegar and water, 50/50. You can find more on google, Hot Rod Magazine had a great article on it. Don't let it sit in there all day, fill it, get up to temp, dump the lower hose, repeat. Run a whole gallon through and then flush with straight water a few times. It will smell like vinegar the first few times, flush a few more times once you don't smell it and it should be fine. I did this on my quest and have had no issues, it seemed to help a lot on my BMW drift car as well. I'd definitely take a look at the cooling fins for being folded over or clogged with dust as well, creating lack of airflow, or even being rotten. Good luck, hope you get it figured out.

#23 Jay40245

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Posted 27 June 2019 - 03:44 PM

View Postscott87star, on 26 June 2019 - 08:44 AM, said:



That would be backwards, the pump gets coolant from the bottom hose and pushes it into the block and head, FSM section 7 page 2 shows a nice diagram.

The lack of appreciable difference between the upper and lower hose means you lack flow, the lower hose should be much cooler than 180.  The radiator flows coolant and air, you say the fans are all running but if the fins are packed with dirt or other debris then you lack air flow.  Lack of coolant flow could be poor pumping or plugging of the passages either in the rad or in the block/head.  It could be a combination of both poor air and coolant flow.
I stand corrected, my apologies. I somehow forgot the lesson regarding the direction coolant travels in a conventional engine. That's why GM called the LT1 reverse flow.

Edited by Jay40245, 27 June 2019 - 03:44 PM.


#24 markhansenconquest

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Posted 28 June 2019 - 02:31 AM

Buy the CRX rad and save yourself future problems.....................The rad is 1 1/2 the stock one and alum removes heat faster..than brass......One of the best Upgrades u can do..............320 isn't bad the other manufacturer Griffen wants 525 for one that's stock size.............Remember this is Mitsubishi  first try at a turbo car and #DM reinvented the rad to get better cooling.and now CRX sells them.on E bay..........( Just because Mitsubishi could use a size they already make they just added the senser bungs to save on production costs.)......Most everything needs to be looked at and rebuield on these 30 year old sports cars.and Upgraded to support your MOD s..........IMO..........

Edited by markhansenconquest, 28 June 2019 - 02:34 AM.


#25 TexasQuest

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Posted 28 June 2019 - 11:49 AM

I highly recommend ordering the CX radiator. My car has never ran cooler until after I installed mine.
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

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#26 kev

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Posted 28 June 2019 - 11:50 AM

Is it running consistently hot or is it variable?   It if is variable, then you have a head or gasket issue.   One thing is for sure, stop driving it until you fix the issue.  These heads don't take much of a higher temp before they crack!

I run an oem radiator that has been re-cored, new aftermarket water pump, 180 deg t-stat, and an 84 clutch fan/shroud.  Temps haven't broached 170 degrees even on the hot days as of recent.

#27 Rapom

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Posted 28 June 2019 - 08:38 PM

The temp pretty much gets to right under 3/4 on the gauge (205ish with ir thermometer) in the corse of about 10 mins. And stays there. If i run the a/c it gets to 3/4 on the gauge and runs at 225 avg with ir thermometer.

Even on the highway babying it at 60mph with no hills or a/c on it stays right under 3/4 mark. So airflow through the rad does nothing.

On another note.. (i have quit driving the car after the first drive with the new head) yesterday i noticed the reserve tank was empty... it WAS at the max mark. No leaks no smoke... was their an air pocket that was just being an absolute nightmare and it finally filled it with what was in the reserve.? I want to drive it again to see what that was about but dont want to run it hot out of curiosity..

Also CRX rad? Or is that a typo?

Definitely getting the CX rather thats my issue or not. Still trying to shoehorn that one by the miss.

I used a felpro headgasket.. it only goes on one way.. tq was exact and as precise as money can buy (quite literally-brand new digy snapon tq wrench) the head casting looked great.. all waterways looked oem.. the block waterways could not have been cleaner. (Head off)

I will definitely keep the topic up to date as i feel that swapping non jet heads on are going to become more and more common as we revive these treasures from their graves.

There is a red 89 quest for sale near me.. he also put a new non jet head on and is having similar issues BUT has an aftermarket radiator,fans,wp. Hes not sure of the head manufacturer. Mine is Cific. He said he paid $450 for it.. im betting its a Cific. I paid $369 for mine shipped including full installed valvetrain/cam.

#28 croquest87

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Posted 28 June 2019 - 09:19 PM

Highly doubt its the head. Your coolant is not passing through the radiator properly due to air pockets or blocked passages or bad thermostat orientation. There is a coolant system bleed set screw on the block pass side to the rear. Or lift that front end in the air take the rad cap off and let it sit overnight.Put the car back down next day leave your rad cap off and idle the car as coolant recirculates adding some coolant real slow as needed to the radiator (not the overflow tank) Let us know what she does. Monitor your temps while running it and dont let it go over 200f. Also run your heater on high the whole time  that will help to cool the car also and get the air pockets out of the system. If it all stayes good at idle at this point? Install the cap  and observe that your upper radiator gets pressurized after it runs for little.

Edited by croquest87, 28 June 2019 - 09:35 PM.


#29 Rapom

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Posted 29 June 2019 - 09:26 PM

Ive done all that 2x. Ive had the front so high that the exhaust tip was touching the ground. Drove the car shortly today to fulfill my curiosity about the reserve tank.. still getting hot.

I drove it until the therm housing was 190 degF and rad was 210 (so about 5-10 mins) this time i also checked temps at the oil cooler... NO IDEA what thats supposed to be at BUT the driver side pipe was hot.. pass side was warm. Temps there were 120 driver side and 100 pass side.

Also whats the hot side turbo temps supposed to be? Mine is around 400 taken it easy and 750 with some good boost but not like track day boost.. (stock 10psi)

#30 croquest87

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Posted 29 June 2019 - 10:07 PM

Turbo gets up there in temps for sure that doesn't sound to bad.

I would double check your t stat  other than that radiator replacement would be my next step and go from there.





#31 Rapom

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Posted 30 June 2019 - 12:31 PM

Also what IS the correct thermostat orientation? I installed mine with large spring pointing down and air bleed valve due north/pointing at radiator.

#32 croquest87

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Posted 30 June 2019 - 01:53 PM

It needs to open in the direction of the flow when temp/ pressure builds inside the engine.

Edited by croquest87, 30 June 2019 - 01:58 PM.


#33 Rapom

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Posted 02 July 2019 - 09:48 PM

Sooo where does it point.. into or away from flow?

An update. Ordered the CX Radiator just now. Eta 10 days.. il be back!

#34 TexasQuest

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Posted 02 July 2019 - 10:06 PM

According to the factory service manual, the thermostat should be installed with the bleeder facing towards the brake master cylinder.
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Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, SPA fuel regulator, Hallman boost controller
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

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#35 ucw458

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Posted 02 July 2019 - 11:22 PM

Thermostat orientation is more of a Japanese OCD thing than an actual issue.  Coolant will flow properly no matter which way it faces.


Installing the thermostat upside down however is a big problem.  The wax motor side with the spring always faces towards the motor.  Not saying you made that error but I have seen dumber things happen.
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#36 Rapom

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Posted 03 July 2019 - 09:44 PM

Damn i never would have thought the fsm would have anything about the bleed valve direction.. mines wrong but as one of you stated... wont matter.. trying to source a waterpump.. i can get a masterpro for like $58 locally or a gates from Amazon for $38 and it is the correct one with turbo feed nipple

#37 Rapom

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 06:39 PM

Ok update! Its been awhile now.. got busy with house projects. (More like happy wife happy life) anyway i replaced upper/lower rad hoses. Replaced waterpump with a gates. Replaced radiator with the CX racing rad. And re-re-re placed thermostat with another 180. Anyway wow that rad holds a full gallon more over oem.. and actually fits like absolute crap... its in there but not without light modifications.. (dont recommend it) air box wont even bolt back in now.. another day.. but anyway temps dropped 30 plus deg across the board. This was driving it hard with a/c on and 95 deg out. Gauge never went past half.. stayed a hair under half.
I shot it with the IR and got 175-192 deg on everything. No hot spots like before. Are these normal temps for the conditions with a 180 therm?

#38 croquest87

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 06:47 PM

Those are pretty normal temperatures. Not sure about your radiator fitment but mine fit like a glove. Yes its tight in there lol


#39 delayed replay

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 08:12 PM

View PostRapom, on 25 June 2019 - 09:13 PM, said:

Delayed reply... what was your gauge reading before and after rad replaced?

My own radiator was shot. It had fins missing and didn't do a very good job cooling at all. Like the others said here, the factory gauge doesn't give an accurate reading, and differ from car to car. When I want to know my exact temp, I plug my laptop in and pull up my tunerstudio and compare the factory gauge to actual temp readings to give me an idea of where I'm at on the gauge.

Edited by delayed replay, 17 July 2019 - 08:17 PM.


#40 Rapom

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Posted 18 July 2019 - 08:23 AM

I checked everything this morning and found my reserve tank was empty (was full before/after first drive with new rad. So it had an air pocket and after i shut it down it pulled a vac and sucked the res dry to fill the air pocket (as its designed to do) i drove it to work this morning.. granted air temp was 15deg F cooler.. the engine never got over 165 deg. (With ac on and boost AND a longer drive) gauge stayed around the 1/4 mark. This is what i wanted to see and where i feel the temps should be. The real test is the drive home. Traffic will be thick with a ton of stop and go with sitting. Air temps are supposed to hit 100 today. We shall see..




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