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Fried ECI fusible link


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#1 Keoni1113

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Posted 30 June 2017 - 11:03 AM

Hi all
Odd electrical issue I may be having. About a year ago I decided to order some fuse links from DAD. Everything has been fine until about a month ago where my brown ECI link got fried shortly after starting the car.
At the time I thought it was the link itself, it did not have as much insulation as the stock ones. I dug out the old one I had Bd everything has been fine... Until last night, where the same thing happened again.
I put an extra red link in its place and the car started and and got home just fine. But I'm curious to what is causing this. Do I simply need to go through and clean/dialectic grease or do I need to add another ground somewhere?
Thanks guys





#2 speedyquest

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Posted 30 June 2017 - 11:23 AM

Your first step should be cleaning all your grounds and checking your power connections for corrosion.

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#3 M Code

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Posted 30 June 2017 - 08:56 PM

Change the battery..
Go to an Optima..  
Mitsu blew it by putting the fusible links in the open rite beside the battery the battery fumes will oxidize the links/connections..

Just my $0.02...  ;)

#4 ucw458

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Posted 01 July 2017 - 03:40 PM

Cleaning electrical connections and grounds is always the first thing to check on these cars.  The ECI fuse link powers the ECU, injectors and fuel pump.  If you installed a bigger aftermarket pump it puts extra strain on the wiring that can cause the link to blow.  Bigger pumps should have their own power wire from the battery and a relay in the trunk to control it.  Use the stock pump wires to turn on the new relay.  


Your wiring could also be grounding out.  The injector power runs from the ECI relay to the resistors then to the injectors.  The wire between the relay and resistors can chafe where it goes through the firewall on the passenger side.  That fries the fuse link.  If you replace the link with wire it will melt the ECI wire all the way to the ECI relay.  I've seen it happen on two cars so far.  Next time you blow an ECI fuse link unplug the injectors.  Then unplug the injector resistors located in front of the stock filter box.  Check for short to ground on the harness side of the resistor plug.  If you have a short to ground there then that's your issue.  Run a new wire from the ECI relay to the resistors.
My 87
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#5 Keoni1113

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Posted 02 July 2017 - 02:44 PM

Mkay thanks for the info guys, I was planning on cleaning all my connections but unfortunately I cut up my hand pretty good at one of my jobs and had to get stitches.
I just ordered some new fuse links from DAD and waiting on those. In the mean time I've had an extra red link in its place. It starts and runs but a little concerned that the red links bigger wire will allow more current to the ECI and short it out. Is that possible? I'm really not an electrical guy  lol
I did add an extra ground awhile back. I'm hoping its just cleaning is the issue, dialectic greasing all my connections. Just waiting till I get my stitches out first

#6 Keoni1113

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Posted 16 July 2017 - 11:59 PM

Mkay, update:
I ordered some more fuse links from DAD. Cleaned off my grounds and the connectors with some dialectic grease. She ran just fine... Until today. It's been particularly hot out here in Southern Oregon and I was running a lot of errands. So about halfway through the day she started bogging just before the boost would kick in. Drove her easy till I got home. Let her sit for a few hours before attempting to drive it again. Made some more stops and in the way home she died,  fried the fuse link. I put in my spare and that one got fried as well. I finally put in a spare green link which kept her running enough for me to get home driving  as gingerly as possible.
So I'm thinking I must be missing  some connections to clean along the way which means I need to bust out my manual again. I noticed that it was particularly hot by the fuse link box. So I'm thinking that the combined heat plus whatever these energy spikes are what is frying my links

#7 Keoni1113

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 12:00 AM

View Postucw458, on 01 July 2017 - 03:40 PM, said:

Cleaning electrical connections and grounds is always the first thing to check on these cars.  The ECI fuse link powers the ECU, injectors and fuel pump.  If you installed a bigger aftermarket pump it puts extra strain on the wiring that can cause the link to blow.  Bigger pumps should have their own power wire from the battery and a relay in the trunk to control it.  Use the stock pump wires to turn on the new relay.  


Your wiring could also be grounding out.  The injector power runs from the ECI relay to the resistors then to the injectors.  The wire between the relay and resistors can chafe where it goes through the firewall on the passenger side.  That fries the fuse link.  If you replace the link with wire it will melt the ECI wire all the way to the ECI relay.  I've seen it happen on two cars so far.  Next time you blow an ECI fuse link unplug the injectors.  Then unplug the injector resistors located in front of the stock filter box.  Check for short to ground on the harness side of the resistor plug.  If you have a short to ground there then that's your issue.  Run a new wire from the ECI relay to the resistors.
I will also be attempting this

#8 speedyquest

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 03:05 PM

I think you are kinda unintentionally downplaying the fact that you have an issue you need to fix by thinking its the heat of your engine bay. Sure the heat isn't helping but that heat isn't the smoking gun for your situation. Spend some time and clean all your connections and clean all your chassis grounds. You will be glad you did.

1987 Flatty Starion -- Widebody Conversion -- V-Mount Setup --  JDL Tubular Manifold  --  MX-6 Intake -- MS3-Pro -- AEM FPR  --  ARP head studs -- 3" hood exit exhaust -- Hahn Racecraft 16g --  Tial F38 Wastegate -- Tial Q Bov -- Short route piping -- 5 lug & LSD conversion -- Tubular Front End -- Manual Steering Rack Conversion -- Manual Brake Conversion -- Stack Digital Dash -- AEM UEGO -- D2 coilovers -- full GNT poly bushings & mounts -- four 8" rears -- car lightened significantly...  More to come!


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#9 Tim_C.

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 04:29 PM

Yes, lots of good advice here so far. Make sure you are removing the entire link box and cleaning the harness connector to it on both sides. That one can corrode. Also, on two of my cars I just gave up entirely on the fuse link box with spade lug links. We soldered all of the links instead and put new link wires in it, and it will not have a problem from corroded links again. I found that the links like to corrode again fast, so make sure if you keep them, that you put a healthy amount of dielectric grease on them.
To properly clean the link box male spades, and the connector, you really need to bead blast it if possible. Or do the baking soda thing like you almost have to on the big bottom connector. I like to blast as much as possible and use good dielectric grease when going back together.
Another thing people miss on these engines is the short ground wire to the intake manifold. That ground gets burned up too, and could very well be the culprit in your case. I always remove the connector and solder it directly to the harness wire with an eyelet for the manifold bolt. The lug connector corrodes and causes a large current draw that blows the ECI link. I advise that everyone get rid of that bogus thing.
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#10 Keoni1113

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 12:41 PM

View Postspeedyquest, on 17 July 2017 - 03:05 PM, said:

I think you are kinda unintentionally downplaying the fact that you have an issue you need to fix by thinking its the heat of your engine bay. Sure the heat isn't helping but that heat isn't the smoking gun for your situation. Spend some time and clean all your connections and clean all your chassis grounds. You will be glad you did.
Oh don't get me wrong. I don't think the heat is the main culprit. I think it has been peaking the entire time and that the heat is just the last straw. I definitely plan on going through all the connections again with some sandpaper, a file, and QC electronics cleaner followed by dialectic grease

#11 Keoni1113

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 12:46 PM

View PostTim_C., on 17 July 2017 - 04:29 PM, said:

Yes, lots of good advice here so far. Make sure you are removing the entire link box and cleaning the harness connector to it on both sides. That one can corrode. Also, on two of my cars I just gave up entirely on the fuse link box with spade lug links. We soldered all of the links instead and put new link wires in it, and it will not have a problem from corroded links again. I found that the links like to corrode again fast, so make sure if you keep them, that you put a healthy amount of dielectric grease on them.
To properly clean the link box male spades, and the connector, you really need to bead blast it if possible. Or do the baking soda thing like you almost have to on the big bottom connector. I like to blast as much as possible and use good dielectric grease when going back together.
Another thing people miss on these engines is the short ground wire to the intake manifold. That ground gets burned up too, and could very well be the culprit in your case. I always remove the connector and solder it directly to the harness wire with an eyelet for the manifold bolt. The lug connector corrodes and causes a large current draw that blows the ECI link. I advise that everyone get rid of that bogus thing.
I'll look into that ground to the intake manifold. I mostly just cleaned the contacts and the grounds by the ignition coil to the body. I completely spaced that eyelet ground in that little box by the battery. I cleaned and replaced it about a year ago so it didn't really come to me until you mentioned it!

#12 Keoni1113

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Posted 21 July 2017 - 01:19 PM

I might have found my issue, or at least one of them. I was cleaning and dielectric greasing all my grounds and the connections to the fuse link box when I saw this

Black Fuse link https://imgur.com/gallery/8hqav

I assume the handy work of a previous owner. I guess my next step is to order one of these guys from DAD. I wish I noticed it earlier, I just sent in a huge order from him to replenish my fuse link stocks lol


#13 creakyjoints

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Posted 21 July 2017 - 08:42 PM

That goes to the battery from alternator. Doubt it has anything to do with your problem. Also no longer available new.

Edited by creakyjoints, 21 July 2017 - 08:43 PM.

the dude in the honda said, i thought you said your car was slow, my response was.. well you said yours was fast so i guess we both lied.. haha

#14 Keoni1113

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Posted 27 July 2017 - 05:09 PM

Had a little more time to go back in there and do a little work. I ended up replacing my negative battery terminal since the wires were frayed at two of the grounding spots. Also replaced that black fuse link that leads to the positive terminal from the wire going to the harness bundle where the fusible link box is at (thanks for informing me creakyjoints but I figured I might as well replace it anyways)

I took a few pics of when hunting around for that Manifold ground Tim C. Mentioned, I found it but unfortunately the wire in the harness it goes to is gone  with the connector still on it. The first pic is from a bundle of wires that was from a poorly done egr solenoid delete on my part from when I first got the car. The second is of a wire that I've never been able to find the source of that has always been loose that is from the same bundle of wires that lead to the coolant temp sensor and a fan temp sensor. The last pic is of that ground wire leading from the Manifold to the unplugged connector

Electrical gremlin https://imgur.com/gallery/l4Jn0




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