Tools required for tear-down are pretty straight forward. You'll need a phillips head screwdriver, an 8mm nut driver or scoket and maybe a pair of needle nose pliers.
First, let's assume that the throttle body is off the car. If it's not, you'll want to remove it to do this procedure. Mitsubishi was actually kind in this area in that all 4 of the 12mm bolts holding the TB to the manifold are accessible. However, you will need to remove the fuel lines (feed and return), a few coolant lines and some vacuum lines. And, of course, you'll have to disconnect a few wiring harnesses related to the TB. Once it's off the car and on your bench you should be looking at this:
Depending on how often things have been apart on your car this very first step could be your most difficult and make you want to abandon doing this altogether. You need to remove to the top two screws pictured below. They can be really frozen in there and I've read horror stories of them shearing off trying to get them off. Hopefully that doesn't happen to you and they come right out. There's very little room to get vise grips or anything of the like in there so you might want to soak them in PB Blaster and wait 24 hours. I WOULD NOT recommend putting these two back in, we'll talk about that more later.
Once those two screws are out, the "top hat", or the fuel injector housing, should pop right off, it's only pressed onto the injectors. Once removed it should look like this:
First, let's disassemble the pulsation dampener. Remove the two screws holding the cover on.
Once you open this up there will be an o-ring, a spring, and a diaphragm-type gasket that will be replaced later on in the rebuild.
OPTIONAL: Depending on what you plan to do with your rebuild you may be interested in adding a fuel pressure gauge. There's a great little spot to do this on the back of the housing. All you need to do is remove this allen key plug. It might be tough to get out, a little heat may help here. Thread is a 1/4" BSPT (taper thread). Most fuel pressure gauges are 1/8" NPT. You can tap this out to just a 1/4" NPT at this time, and put a 1/4" to 1/8" reducer, or find a 1/4" BSPT to 1/8" NPT adapter (they do make these), or you can purchase other Earls-type fittings to change the position, angle, whatever you want.
Getting back to our TB, it should now look like this with the top hat removed:
Next up we're going to remove some of the wiring harness brackets so we can get the ISC off. Remove the 3 screws shown:
The brackets will come right off with the screws removed. Set them off to the side.
With the brackets out of the way we now have access to all the ISC screws. There are 5 total that you need to remove in order for it to come off.
Once they are removed the ISC will "fold" over out of the way. It will still be attached by the long thin spring. Get your needle nose pliers and gently twist it out to fully remove the ISC.
Removed. Set if off to the side. (NOTE: now is a good time to make sure this thing works. There are some FAQ tutorials, or your FSM, to explain how to test it. All you need is a 6V lantern battery and some wire.)
If you haven't already, pop out the primary and secondary injectors. Make sure the bottom o-rings come with.
You can set those off to the side too, more about them later.
The last step to getting your TB tore down into it's basic pieces is to separate the TB halves. There are two screws left that hold it together.
Once those screws are removed the top should lift right off...
... and you'll be left with this underneath.
For the basic disassembly of the TB, that's it. We're going to take things a bit further by disassembling the throttle plate as well and replace those pesky shaft seals.
Edited by techboy, 03 September 2017 - 10:59 PM.