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"Aux In" Mod


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#21 nightwalkerancestery

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Posted 21 January 2015 - 01:28 AM

View Postucw458, on 20 January 2015 - 05:53 AM, said:

To clarify, The radio has an external amp in stock form.  A cable connects to the back of the radio to a box located behind the radio.  The radio/tape player and CD are also separate units with a cable running between them.

Sorry, I should have clarified who I was talking to. When I mentioned the not being able to add an amp to the stock unit, I was referring to the previous poster. Not you. Sorry for the confusion.

If the amp is made with a preamp out, then yes, it should work fine. I just haven't tried to build in an AUX line in the 1g units because I don't have one of those units to fiddle around with. Strangely enough, the radio I pictured is FROM a 1st gen eclipse. Had the same radio as SQs, but they had a white illuminated face instead of orange.


G54...I've been using one of those things for years as well as the tape adapter before that. I did this AUX mod because I just got fed up with them. For one, it's hard to get a clear enough station. Even so, it's sometimes low in volume just because of transmission. Not to mention it clutters up the interior and it's obvious. I like this because it's all hidden and really efficient. I'll never use an FM transmitter again for my Starions. ;)

- Charles
Posted Image
88 Mitsubishi Starion Esi-R: DD. Rebuilt stock engine (About 20k miles). Mechanical rocker arms. NJV Head. 240sx SR20 Aluminum Radiator. 1g BOV (about to put in Greddy RS). 650/950 Delphi Injectors from Brian, Aftermarket Rising Rate FPR. Removed emissions. Gutted cats. Rebuilt rear end. Polyurethane end links.

Resto Thread: http://www.starquest...opic=129093&hl=

87 Mitsubishi Starion Esi-R: NJV Head. Full port and polish. Ported mixer housing w/ knife-edged divider. Stress-relieved, ported, polished OEM Exhaust Manifold. BSE kit. 2.5" Mandrel Bent Aluminized Exhaust with 3" Stainless downpipe. 2.5" OVCP w/ TurboXS BOV. 18G-TD05H Turbo at 18psi w/ Port and polished Compressor & Exhaust housings. New bushings all around. Poly End Link and Mount Bushings. Solid Diff mounts 88 6-bolt rear end. 044 Bosch Fuel Pump. Trilogy Injectors (stock flow). Stainless braided fuel lines w/ AN fittings and NRG FPG. No emissions. 475lb/ft pressure plate with stock sprung disc. 2-step 225mm flywheel lightened to 23lb. To Be Continued...





#22 tankbob

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Posted 22 January 2015 - 06:05 AM

View Postnightwalkerancestery, on 21 January 2015 - 01:28 AM, said:

Sorry, I should have clarified who I was talking to. When I mentioned the not being able to add an amp to the stock unit, I was referring to the previous poster. Not you. Sorry for the confusion.

If the amp is made with a preamp out, then yes, it should work fine. I just haven't tried to build in an AUX line in the 1g units because I don't have one of those units to fiddle around with. Strangely enough, the radio I pictured is FROM a 1st gen eclipse. Had the same radio as SQs, but they had a white illuminated face instead of orange.


G54...I've been using one of those things for years as well as the tape adapter before that. I did this AUX mod because I just got fed up with them. For one, it's hard to get a clear enough station. Even so, it's sometimes low in volume just because of transmission. Not to mention it clutters up the interior and it's obvious. I like this because it's all hidden and really efficient. I'll never use an FM transmitter again for my Starions. ;)

- Charles
Stock radio might handle component speakers but not a sub, I dont have the sub currently installed but I like my fancy 4 channel rockford fosgate amp I won at MOD last year. Im plannig to put the sub back in but this time make it easily removable.

Edited by tankbob, 22 January 2015 - 06:05 AM.

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#23 nightwalkerancestery

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 07:10 PM

View Posttankbob, on 22 January 2015 - 06:05 AM, said:


Stock radio might handle component speakers but not a sub, I dont have the sub currently installed but I like my fancy 4 channel rockford fosgate amp I won at MOD last year. Im plannig to put the sub back in but this time make it easily removable.

The stock radio won't have to handle anything for a pre-amp. The way radios work that have the ability to install a sub is wired like so. The four channels that contain an RMS value are amplified internally. Meaning, the signal is amplified through the internal IC Amps that are inside the radio. The wires you get for the sub are nothing but a signal. That's why you need an external amp for subs.

The wires you connect to at the radio simply carry the audio signal to the external amp, then it's amplified and sent to the speakers. Hence the term PRE-amp. So, the radio can handle it because it only putting out a low signal. As long as you can harness the signal before it gets to the amp, then you can wire up a sub :)

Note: The only thing I can see that would hinder being able to grab a pre-amp signal would be the possibility that it may change the impedance. I'm not even sure it would change it as long as you catch the signal early enough. But, that's the only issue I can foresee. We'll never know unless someone tries ;)

- Charles
Posted Image
88 Mitsubishi Starion Esi-R: DD. Rebuilt stock engine (About 20k miles). Mechanical rocker arms. NJV Head. 240sx SR20 Aluminum Radiator. 1g BOV (about to put in Greddy RS). 650/950 Delphi Injectors from Brian, Aftermarket Rising Rate FPR. Removed emissions. Gutted cats. Rebuilt rear end. Polyurethane end links.

Resto Thread: http://www.starquest...opic=129093&hl=

87 Mitsubishi Starion Esi-R: NJV Head. Full port and polish. Ported mixer housing w/ knife-edged divider. Stress-relieved, ported, polished OEM Exhaust Manifold. BSE kit. 2.5" Mandrel Bent Aluminized Exhaust with 3" Stainless downpipe. 2.5" OVCP w/ TurboXS BOV. 18G-TD05H Turbo at 18psi w/ Port and polished Compressor & Exhaust housings. New bushings all around. Poly End Link and Mount Bushings. Solid Diff mounts 88 6-bolt rear end. 044 Bosch Fuel Pump. Trilogy Injectors (stock flow). Stainless braided fuel lines w/ AN fittings and NRG FPG. No emissions. 475lb/ft pressure plate with stock sprung disc. 2-step 225mm flywheel lightened to 23lb. To Be Continued...

#24 cogquest

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 02:17 PM

very nice! I replaced all my factory speakers but could not bring myself to replace the factory radio, I will definitely be doing this mod!

#25 CarlosFley

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 10:10 PM

If you end up offering this service I'd be interested so please let me know
'87 Chrysler Conquest TSI NON-SHP "Diamond"-Walbro 255, rebuilt TB, OVC hardpipe with HKS SSQV, GM 3" MAF, 1G DSM MAF Translator, 88-89 knock box, black silicone vacuum lines, ABS & Cruise Control delete, 3" HKS Super Power Flow, wire tucked... kinda :/, NRG adjustable shift knob, MSD Blaster 2, tucking tire in the rear and zero wheel gap in fronts on D2's, aaaaaaaannddddd stickaaaaaassssss for that booooooooost!

Interested in: CF 83 style hood, CF air daayyuum. Ohh and turbo-to-intercooler hardpipe.

#26 nightwalkerancestery

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Posted 10 February 2015 - 01:26 PM

Carlos...PMing now! I am certainly open to offering this.

- Charles
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88 Mitsubishi Starion Esi-R: DD. Rebuilt stock engine (About 20k miles). Mechanical rocker arms. NJV Head. 240sx SR20 Aluminum Radiator. 1g BOV (about to put in Greddy RS). 650/950 Delphi Injectors from Brian, Aftermarket Rising Rate FPR. Removed emissions. Gutted cats. Rebuilt rear end. Polyurethane end links.

Resto Thread: http://www.starquest...opic=129093&hl=

87 Mitsubishi Starion Esi-R: NJV Head. Full port and polish. Ported mixer housing w/ knife-edged divider. Stress-relieved, ported, polished OEM Exhaust Manifold. BSE kit. 2.5" Mandrel Bent Aluminized Exhaust with 3" Stainless downpipe. 2.5" OVCP w/ TurboXS BOV. 18G-TD05H Turbo at 18psi w/ Port and polished Compressor & Exhaust housings. New bushings all around. Poly End Link and Mount Bushings. Solid Diff mounts 88 6-bolt rear end. 044 Bosch Fuel Pump. Trilogy Injectors (stock flow). Stainless braided fuel lines w/ AN fittings and NRG FPG. No emissions. 475lb/ft pressure plate with stock sprung disc. 2-step 225mm flywheel lightened to 23lb. To Be Continued...

#27 pcristquester

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Posted 10 February 2015 - 01:58 PM

I would also like to get this done. I'm sure with your great write up I could handle it, but got bigger fish to fry on my project. Can you let me know if you are offering this service also?
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#28 nightwalkerancestery

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 04:31 PM

View Postpcristquester, on 10 February 2015 - 01:58 PM, said:

I would also like to get this done. I'm sure with your great write up I could handle it, but got bigger fish to fry on my project. Can you let me know if you are offering this service also?

I know what you mean. Things are just as hectic over here. I'm sending you a PM now. I'm entirely open to helping some fellows out.

- Charles
Posted Image
88 Mitsubishi Starion Esi-R: DD. Rebuilt stock engine (About 20k miles). Mechanical rocker arms. NJV Head. 240sx SR20 Aluminum Radiator. 1g BOV (about to put in Greddy RS). 650/950 Delphi Injectors from Brian, Aftermarket Rising Rate FPR. Removed emissions. Gutted cats. Rebuilt rear end. Polyurethane end links.

Resto Thread: http://www.starquest...opic=129093&hl=

87 Mitsubishi Starion Esi-R: NJV Head. Full port and polish. Ported mixer housing w/ knife-edged divider. Stress-relieved, ported, polished OEM Exhaust Manifold. BSE kit. 2.5" Mandrel Bent Aluminized Exhaust with 3" Stainless downpipe. 2.5" OVCP w/ TurboXS BOV. 18G-TD05H Turbo at 18psi w/ Port and polished Compressor & Exhaust housings. New bushings all around. Poly End Link and Mount Bushings. Solid Diff mounts 88 6-bolt rear end. 044 Bosch Fuel Pump. Trilogy Injectors (stock flow). Stainless braided fuel lines w/ AN fittings and NRG FPG. No emissions. 475lb/ft pressure plate with stock sprung disc. 2-step 225mm flywheel lightened to 23lb. To Be Continued...

#29 mstieg

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 04:00 AM

Great write up. Unfortunately no more stock deck although that may have been covered?  Are there not products that T into the antenna for a direct splice input; say from headphone jack?  May or may not still need to set a frequency for that?

I've got the USB charger low power transmitter but quality stinks.
Before: 352 rwhp @15psi; MPI: SDS EM5F; Chad intake & equal length header; S256 turbo (56/80comp-64/74ex); 48" of 2.5" IC piping
Now Done:  7.5:1 .35 Wiseco rebuild w/ crank scraper; 274 Magna roller cam & 1.55 rockers; mod port AMC head; 1mm>valves; Innovate WB; GM alt/rewired; 3" 240 alum radiator, elec fans; BMW X5 oil separator exh. crankcase vent; gas tank renewed; D2s; sway/strut bars; LT1 T56 clutch & trans swap w/ Fidanza; 4.22 rear; 265 Kumos on SHP rears; new steering pump/box/lines & coupler fix: http://www.starquest...howtopic=139558; full dash/console rewire - Autometer, push start, etc.
In Progress: breakin & tune
Future: Enjoy driving again; meets & local shows; AC; WG reroute from open vent to exh; Water/Meth?; body/paint

FOR SALE:  Rear Camber plates (basic); NIB beefy U-joints(2); etc.see-->  http://www.starquest...howtopic=133262 Custom 5 gauge overlay panel: http://www.starquest...pic=136703&st=0

#30 nightwalkerancestery

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 08:19 PM

View Postmstieg, on 16 February 2015 - 04:00 AM, said:

Great write up. Unfortunately no more stock deck although that may have been covered?  Are there not products that T into the antenna for a direct splice input; say from headphone jack?  May or may not still need to set a frequency for that?

I've got the USB charger low power transmitter but quality stinks.

I'm not entirely sure what it is you're asking. The tape deck is still entirely usable providing your drive belts aren't old and sticky. This mod doesn't tap into the tape deck. It taps into the inputs for the EQ. No station need be selected. It overrides all antenna signal.

If you do this mod, I don't know why you'd want to tap into the antenna. Its be a dirtier and weaker signal than this.

As for the voltage step down, I came up with a slightly different setup than originally. I will update the thread when I test it out. The original power method was too dirty and caused the input to be staticy. So, I spent the extra few dollars and got a proper step down with two USB inputs so hopefully the power will be cleaner.

- Charles
Posted Image
88 Mitsubishi Starion Esi-R: DD. Rebuilt stock engine (About 20k miles). Mechanical rocker arms. NJV Head. 240sx SR20 Aluminum Radiator. 1g BOV (about to put in Greddy RS). 650/950 Delphi Injectors from Brian, Aftermarket Rising Rate FPR. Removed emissions. Gutted cats. Rebuilt rear end. Polyurethane end links.

Resto Thread: http://www.starquest...opic=129093&hl=

87 Mitsubishi Starion Esi-R: NJV Head. Full port and polish. Ported mixer housing w/ knife-edged divider. Stress-relieved, ported, polished OEM Exhaust Manifold. BSE kit. 2.5" Mandrel Bent Aluminized Exhaust with 3" Stainless downpipe. 2.5" OVCP w/ TurboXS BOV. 18G-TD05H Turbo at 18psi w/ Port and polished Compressor & Exhaust housings. New bushings all around. Poly End Link and Mount Bushings. Solid Diff mounts 88 6-bolt rear end. 044 Bosch Fuel Pump. Trilogy Injectors (stock flow). Stainless braided fuel lines w/ AN fittings and NRG FPG. No emissions. 475lb/ft pressure plate with stock sprung disc. 2-step 225mm flywheel lightened to 23lb. To Be Continued...

#31 mstieg

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 10:42 PM

View Postnightwalkerancestery, on 16 February 2015 - 08:19 PM, said:

I'm not entirely sure what it is you're asking. The tape deck is still entirely usable providing your drive belts aren't old and sticky. This mod doesn't tap into the tape deck. It taps into the inputs for the EQ. No station need be selected. It overrides all antenna signal.

If you do this mod, I don't know why you'd want to tap into the antenna. Its be a dirtier and weaker signal than this.

As for the voltage step down, I came up with a slightly different setup than originally. I will update the thread when I test it out. The original power method was too dirty and caused the input to be staticy. So, I spent the extra few dollars and got a proper step down with two USB inputs so hopefully the power will be cleaner.

- Charles

My stock stereo is gone as it quit years ago and I'm using a single DIN JVC CD unit currently.  My current experiences in my other car using a small band FM transmitter gives a weak signal muddied with interferance and squealing.  I found what I failed to describe well previously:

http://www.ebay.com/...ulator-Antenna-Port-/390583451035?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af0967d9b&vxp=mtr

Posted Image
Before: 352 rwhp @15psi; MPI: SDS EM5F; Chad intake & equal length header; S256 turbo (56/80comp-64/74ex); 48" of 2.5" IC piping
Now Done:  7.5:1 .35 Wiseco rebuild w/ crank scraper; 274 Magna roller cam & 1.55 rockers; mod port AMC head; 1mm>valves; Innovate WB; GM alt/rewired; 3" 240 alum radiator, elec fans; BMW X5 oil separator exh. crankcase vent; gas tank renewed; D2s; sway/strut bars; LT1 T56 clutch & trans swap w/ Fidanza; 4.22 rear; 265 Kumos on SHP rears; new steering pump/box/lines & coupler fix: http://www.starquest...howtopic=139558; full dash/console rewire - Autometer, push start, etc.
In Progress: breakin & tune
Future: Enjoy driving again; meets & local shows; AC; WG reroute from open vent to exh; Water/Meth?; body/paint

FOR SALE:  Rear Camber plates (basic); NIB beefy U-joints(2); etc.see-->  http://www.starquest...howtopic=133262 Custom 5 gauge overlay panel: http://www.starquest...pic=136703&st=0

#32 nightwalkerancestery

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Posted 17 February 2015 - 12:55 AM

Ah. I see what you're talking about. That was the way to go before AUX in was really available. You can always rig up an AUX in with your current radio. Newer aftermarkets seem to be a bit easier to tap into.

- Charles
Posted Image
88 Mitsubishi Starion Esi-R: DD. Rebuilt stock engine (About 20k miles). Mechanical rocker arms. NJV Head. 240sx SR20 Aluminum Radiator. 1g BOV (about to put in Greddy RS). 650/950 Delphi Injectors from Brian, Aftermarket Rising Rate FPR. Removed emissions. Gutted cats. Rebuilt rear end. Polyurethane end links.

Resto Thread: http://www.starquest...opic=129093&hl=

87 Mitsubishi Starion Esi-R: NJV Head. Full port and polish. Ported mixer housing w/ knife-edged divider. Stress-relieved, ported, polished OEM Exhaust Manifold. BSE kit. 2.5" Mandrel Bent Aluminized Exhaust with 3" Stainless downpipe. 2.5" OVCP w/ TurboXS BOV. 18G-TD05H Turbo at 18psi w/ Port and polished Compressor & Exhaust housings. New bushings all around. Poly End Link and Mount Bushings. Solid Diff mounts 88 6-bolt rear end. 044 Bosch Fuel Pump. Trilogy Injectors (stock flow). Stainless braided fuel lines w/ AN fittings and NRG FPG. No emissions. 475lb/ft pressure plate with stock sprung disc. 2-step 225mm flywheel lightened to 23lb. To Be Continued...

#33 pcristquester

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 06:55 PM

Charles modded mine and just checked it out. Works great loud and clear rockin' my ipod now and lovin it! Helps me so much so i can reinstall the entire center of my interior now. Great mod!!!!
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#34 Fuze

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 11:31 AM

LOVE a good clean hardware hack, I can get into this. Wish I had this info a couple years back when I put in an FM Modulator to connect my phone or iPods. That works, but nowhere near as well as this does. The way the player behaves regarding source signal stability and prioritizing the signal from the device is just icing on the cake. You know your stuff, nightwalker.

Insta = @battlemagnet

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#35 Laodicea

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 01:22 PM

Hey I got a question about fixing the buttons on the face of the stock unit??....My "light" or night light button will not stay clicked down.  Some other buttons don't work either....However I may just have to find a better used unit to start with.
Gnothi Seauton 515 rwhp/527 Lbs.@21psi....nuff said.

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#36 nightwalkerancestery

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Posted 02 March 2015 - 03:21 AM

Thanks for the kind words guys. I'm glad you're all enjoying the mod!

Laodicea...it's entirely possible to fix the unit you have. They're just simple toggle and tactile Switches. Sometimes the spring inside them falls out of its track that keeps them clicked down. It's up to you if you'd rather fix it or buy another good unit. I can fix it for you if you want to go that route. Just send me a PM and we'll figure something out :)

- Charles
Posted Image
88 Mitsubishi Starion Esi-R: DD. Rebuilt stock engine (About 20k miles). Mechanical rocker arms. NJV Head. 240sx SR20 Aluminum Radiator. 1g BOV (about to put in Greddy RS). 650/950 Delphi Injectors from Brian, Aftermarket Rising Rate FPR. Removed emissions. Gutted cats. Rebuilt rear end. Polyurethane end links.

Resto Thread: http://www.starquest...opic=129093&hl=

87 Mitsubishi Starion Esi-R: NJV Head. Full port and polish. Ported mixer housing w/ knife-edged divider. Stress-relieved, ported, polished OEM Exhaust Manifold. BSE kit. 2.5" Mandrel Bent Aluminized Exhaust with 3" Stainless downpipe. 2.5" OVCP w/ TurboXS BOV. 18G-TD05H Turbo at 18psi w/ Port and polished Compressor & Exhaust housings. New bushings all around. Poly End Link and Mount Bushings. Solid Diff mounts 88 6-bolt rear end. 044 Bosch Fuel Pump. Trilogy Injectors (stock flow). Stainless braided fuel lines w/ AN fittings and NRG FPG. No emissions. 475lb/ft pressure plate with stock sprung disc. 2-step 225mm flywheel lightened to 23lb. To Be Continued...

#37 Jetspd150

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Posted 10 March 2015 - 12:25 AM

If i had know this article exist? I could have helped out. 15 years ago i did preamp outs from the radio. Some where in my house i have the full Mitsubishi schematic of the radio head unit. Back when i use to repair them for friends with starions & conquest. I even made a hand held remote control to change station & volume etc.

#38 Jay40245

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Posted 28 June 2019 - 05:42 AM

Tried it last weekend. Work's like a charm! The instructions were perfect. Just keep track of all the little screws.

Edited by Jay40245, 28 June 2019 - 05:44 AM.





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