REBUILD

[VICE]

I have removed the engine block from my car this weekend, First time for me, borrowed an engine hoist and here it is.. I am gonna take the short block to a machine shop JYCLASSIC.COM on monday. I am hoping I can re use the Wiseco .20 over pistons and the Pauter Rods that are in there right now If not the bill will be slighty higher..

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All the necessary block work will be done, cleaning, milling, checked for cracks, etc. I might have to get the crank knife edged hehe but all bearings and timing should be replaced with new parts New piston rings at least I am expecting since the motor was ran with no coolant for a longer than necessary time, altho it was still running it would get very hot and a compression test revealed 70, 85, 68, 75 psi on cylinders 1 thru 4.

I took it out by myself like Frank Castle.

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I am going with a new M28 three hundred dollar head and Ajuza head gasket with SS 1.0 Valves, I have SS Valves in my current head which was vacuum tested at the shop a few weeks ago and they seal. One ARP Head Stud was somewhat stuck on the head by the rear plug passenger side I had to tap it out with the mallet. ARP's will have to be checked too for re-usability.

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I didn't notice any cracks around any of the passages or bolt holes, or any exhaust leaks.. Cylinder wall from 1 has a vertical scratch I can feel with my nail but didn't see any others.

The leaning tower of Mitsu.

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I'm going to bolt the chains up differently when the rebuilt motor goes back in, intake and exhaust with turbo attached I'm gonna bolt on before I drop it in... I'm estimating a week or two at the machine shop since I haven't ordered the parts yet. I will get the majority of the parts from Dad at EngineMachineService.com

Edited June 27, 2010 by VICE

[Tipsysmile]

wanna come up and do mine? I got beer. lol. I wanna freshin up my motor and clean the nasty bay out, but time and funds say other wise..

[Indiana]

I didn't know you had an oring'd block you never mentioned that. If you look at the back of the block, that oring is near the cylinder wall and that oval large coolant passage where its common to blow or leak coolant appears that its been blowing coolant out there I can't see the coppe spray. That's far away considering how those orings need to be mashed up into the gasket and since you said the ARP was mashed into the head so it wouldn't even come out tells me someone torque'd the CRAP out of that to stop it from leaking and it may have always been doing that there. Were you also loosing coolant or did you know? What gasket was that? A copper one or a black colored ajusa metal layered one or a Felpro? It shouldn't have had all that spray on it unless it was the black one Ajusa makes since it has no coating on it at all.

[VICE]

I didn't know you had an oring'd block you never mentioned that. If you look at the back of the block, that oring is near the cylinder wall and that oval large coolant passage where its common to blow or leak coolant appears that its been blowing coolant out there I can't see the coppe spray. That's far away considering how those orings need to be mashed up into the gasket and since you said the ARP was mashed into the head so it wouldn't even come out tells me someone torque'd the CRAP out of that to stop it from leaking and it may have always been doing that there. Were you also loosing coolant or did you know? What gasket was that? A copper one or a black colored ajusa metal layered one or a Felpro? It shouldn't have had all that spray on it unless it was the black one Ajusa makes since it has no coating on it at all.

 

Yeah I guess I didn't notice.. I had a Victor Head gasket I picked up from CarQuest for $30 on it last time I took the head of and put it back in 2 months ago. I ALSO sprayed the crap out of that head gasket with that copper sealant spray I heard it was good stuff.. NO coolant loss this last time around that I noticed, I see that oval passage on the pic it looks gray with no copper spray but I didn't see any coolant on the block surface and there was no coolant on the pistons either soo couldn't tell ya much more. I am waiting for the Machine shop to call me back, prolly tomorrow and let me know whats up.. I am hoping the pistons are still good I don't wanna add another $500 to the bill, I looked up the block with the oil pan off and the pistons look CLEAN from underneath and the Rods look good from what I can tell. I had torqued that head back on with 110 pounds of torque as you told me those ARP's need to be torqued real good, you said to 125 lb's but 110 felt real hard I didn't want to push it any more..

Edited June 30, 2010 by VICE

[Indiana]

Maybe that mark is from the gasket its hard to tell. You don't have to spray all gasket types but that didn't have anything to do with the running hot part. The oval hole at the back, the coolant leaks out the back of that and blows on the ground and you don't even see it usually. It could also just be some spray that stuck to the gasket and not to the block and it wasn't leaking at all. Its hard to tell from pictures unless you see all the pieces.

[VICE]

Went to the shop and Pistons look good to re use Imma order new rings from Wiseco, Rods look ok as well and will get new bearings. Should I get cylinder sleeves?

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[TopDawg_43]

If the cylinder walls are still with in spec, there is no need to sleeve. And even still, it is allot cheaper to bore and go with bigger pistons then to sleeve a block.

[Indiana]

I'd have them media blast the rest of the useless coating off and that will take some of those scratches down even if they had to use some fine sandpaper and if you leave the rings where they were in the same cylinders then you won't have to buy new ones. If you get new ones I'd have them lightly hone the cylinders again so in other words you are starting over.

[VICE]

Is it just me or does this work order look a little jacked up? Especially for the Head work anybody care to comment?

 

 

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[Dad]

Oil Squirter elimination kit?? No magnaflux for cracks, No resurface on block? No balance..

 

Hose job???

 

Dad

Edited July 16, 2010 by Dad

[VICE]

Oil Squirter elimination kit?? No magnaflux for cracks, No resurface on block? No balance..

 

Hose job???

 

Dad

 

Yeah what is an oil squirter elimination kit is there such a thing? I'm unsure about the crank knife edging, $100 aint bad but will it really help much? I've read it's got it's pros and cons like loosing innertia and counter weight and it throws it all off.. The Head work is a little pricey I can def find someone to install the valves and springs for much less. I might not get the knife edge or the Cam Deegreing either tho I did get an adjustable Cam Gear. Does setting the Piston Ring End Caps really cost $100?

Edited July 16, 2010 by VICE

[Dad]

Is this a quote? or is this the bill for work done?

 

dad

[VICE]

Is this a quote? or is this the bill for work done?

 

dad

 

Just a quote, I actually took the dissasembled motor to a different shop. The shop it was at didn't feel like the right choice and they only charged me $60 to take apart the block, this different shop DOVER

seems like a much better choice and there is not many other choices locally. I am shaving some things off that work order to be to bring the price down a few hundred..

Edited July 16, 2010 by VICE

[Indiana]

They saw you and sized you up before you got in the door.

 

way crazy

[StarquestRescue]

What was the original reason for the tear down? Edit i remember something about a severe over heating.

 

Knife edge can't be done for $100 anyway. That's pure profit for them.

Leave the squirters in, this is not a dsm. They need cleaned and checked though.

Edited July 16, 2010 by StarquestRescue

[VICE]

Yeah it was overheating badly, ok so the motor is in this new different shop and I really don't have another option as to someone else do the build so whats so crazy about this quote? Other than the Knife edging I wont do I guess and the Squirters elimination oh and the Valve Lash asdjustment hense the new lifters and I'm going with a hydraulic rocker setup.. It'll drop it down 275, need to pay half down tonight or get my motor out of there in pieces regardless. Edited July 16, 2010 by VICE

[VICE]

I just have one slight concern at the moment if the hone doesn't clear the scratches I'd have to get new and bigger pistons.. I don't wanna mess too much with the OE weights and inertia either I guess and the Fidanza already lightens it some .. Edited July 16, 2010 by VICE

[VICE]

Ok so the block was honed to 6.5 thousands to clear the scratches and the guy says there might be a lil piston slap but other wise should be ok.. Does this sound alright since the pistons expand? Once again the Pistons are Wisecos 92mm bore size and 3100 over size.. I would hate to have all this work done and money spent to have a weak link in the system. I saw Wisecos for $375 on Ebay they are the 92.5 ones, would those be bigger enough to go for a bigger bore? And what are the differences betweens those Wisecos and the 92mm ones.. Off the shelf pistons or something.. Edited July 21, 2010 by VICE

[VICE]

I got the motor back today finally but I am a little dissapointed the guy put two of those damn wax plugs on an engine plug on each side. And those Clearwater Cylinder Head's come with those but not the last one I got from them that is on there now I guess I lucked out but now I have two of those on my block.. I had JB Welded the plug on my last Clearwater head and it seems to have held out through the overheat so maybe I will JB these two as well, how hard is it to replace an engine plug, can it be done without ripping the motor apart? Also the guy primered the head and the valve cover which I didn't even ask for..

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Edited August 19, 2010 by VICE

[Dad]

Those are heat tabs we put them on our heads, the center melts at 250 degrees, You remove them and most warranties are void.. they are just an indicator if it gets over heated. DO NOT melt the center and you will be fine.

 

Dad

[VICE]

Those are heat tabs we put them on our heads, the center melts at 250 degrees, You remove them and most warranties are void.. they are just an indicator if it gets over heated. DO NOT melt the center and you will be fine.

 

Dad

 

WHAT Warranty? I didn't get one to begin with, there is no Warranty on High Performance/Race motors.. Why is there not one on the head and why put two on the block, do you ever put them on the block Dad? Also can a Cylinder Bore be checked from under the Oil Pan or must the Head be removed?

Edited August 19, 2010 by VICE

[Dad]

WHAT Warranty? I didn't get one to begin with, there is no Warranty on High Performance/Race motors.. Why is there not one on the head and why put two on the block, do you ever put them on the block Dad? Also can a Cylinder Bore be checked from under the Oil Pan or must the Head be removed?

 

 

I have put one on a block too no ig deal- i called no warranty once but the guy insisted I screwed up-- I showed him a tab melted on his head- discussion over...

 

You can check it from the pan side if there is no crank or pistons installed.

 

Dad

[VICE]

Well the motor is fully assembled so I guess I won't know if he Honed it to exactly 3.6275 thousanths like I specified unless I take the head off and take it to another shop to confirm.. Are there different melting temperature tabs or they all melt at 250? Edited August 19, 2010 by VICE

[Dad]

2 diff temps if i recall. why are you worried?? just don't over heat it and you will be fine... they don't hurt a thing. just a tattle tale sister you might call them.

 

Dad

[VICE]

What about the head and ARP's being torqued to 100 pounds with an Ajuza HG, should I be worried about that? I don't want to keep thread jacking the Proper Break in thread..