Jump to content

iFREAKNiK

Members
  • Posts

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Atlanta
  • Gender
    Male

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.ifreaknik.com

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    30324
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1989
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    California Red
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    Being Modded

iFREAKNiK's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

1

Reputation

  1. DiSCLAIMER: I may rant. OK, so a few years ago I fell in love with the SQ and have been dreaming of the day to get one right. Well that day is near and there are many of you out there feeding the noobs bullstinky - time to air that out. I've fully built my car from the oil pan to the valve cover and here's how to save money, time and stress. Don't worry about the SPARK (distributor), putting EDIS, MSD is all good and dandy but you are wasting money and time. Nology wires are all you need if you decide to upgrade, everyone else is just trying to sell you s***. Most of the guys on here that have these cars are a little weird in a sense. They see the world there way so you should keep this in mind and remember that its YOUR CAR. Get the SHORT SHIFTER, it's 150 from Mookeeh and worth every penny. It makes that truck motor under the hood FEEL like a sports car. It will reduce your 6 inch throw to 2 maybe 3 with a sexy firm, smooth feel (thank me later). Dont be scared to floss the polish on it as well, most guys are too cheap to buy it so if you got it . . . let it do what it do. ENGINE overhaul: PAIN IN THE tail <-- avoid at all cost. It's better and cheaper to buy a refurb from Jasper engines. Not only will it be NEW - it comes with a beutiful warranty. If you are going MPI like I have, swap out the intakes and drop it off for a new one if you blow. Mechanics hate working on our cars because they are old, rare motors and requires them to think - they hate thinking. If you have the time to do ALL the work go for it but for everyone else with ambition, buy it and keep it moving. HEAD: The Schneider cams and all that is WAYYYYYY over rated. Same with the Marnel and AUSSIE options. Keep a fresh pair of lifters, STAY HYDRAULIC and throw in a jet valve elimination kit for breathing - that's it. The port and polish, TEP manifold and all that other non-sense is useless. Been there and done that. MPI: Damn near a waste of time UNLESS you intend to put a bigger turbo on it. Race manifolds will cost $500+ (get over it) - the magna is cool but is stock - remember that. When you go MPI you must buy a standalone - no way around it. Expect to spend $1,000 on the unit. STANDALONE: I went with MegaSquirt and freakin hate it. The customer service sucks, no one knows how to tune it (because they didn't design it to fit on cars) and they charge your for EVERY LITTLE THING. Here's an example: I purchased the MSII for $550. Then I had to buy the harness, then the stimulator (to test the actual MegaSquirt), then the power charger for the stimulator, then the usb cord for the MS2 unit, then the adapter for the cord that plugs into the unit, then I had to go download a specific program/ driver for the CORD (yes, a driver for the fuckin cord) and then . . . there's more :-) Then download Tuner Studio which cost $90 more dollars and that's not all folks but I'll pause for now. I EASILY have $1,100 in the MS2 which isn't bad in comparison to a $2,000 but the true difference is most Tuners support the AEM's and etc whereas the MS2 is not. Forget about tech support from DIY, all the guys there are engineers and can barely speak English (literally). They don't understand the impact of a friendly user interface nor wish to endorse it because they rather sell you the PNP (plug n play) and that's a whole nother story. WIRING: BE TOTALLYjz about the technique used to wire your or it will catch on fire. Old wires turn into this funky dust inside the silicone and can burn up under the right conditions. Don't think it won't happen to you? It will. My experience has been let the mechanic build the car and the technician wire it. Nothing is worst then seeing your investment go up in flames. Absolutely insist on soldering where applicable and crimps with heat shrink everywhere else. STAY AWAY FROM ELECTRICAL TAPE!!!!! GAUGES: oil, boost, temp <-- essentials a/r & rpm is a plus. The essentials are there so if s*** gets real on the road, you might be able to save your motor. The stock gauges are horrible and should never be trusted. Need an example? The STOCK boost gauge is electronic - damn thing flies around everywhere versus a after market one that is analog. Oil and temp are the same. Knowing what's going on with the motor is mandatory - if you feel it isn't -go drive with a blind fold on. FUEL: Leave the fuel pump alone unless its broken. It has all the pressure you need. TRANSMISSION: Will handle 500hp, 450 trq MOTOR: Will handle 480trq stk (you need the above to get here) NITROUS: Best s*** in the world, 150 hit all day AIR DAMN: Them s**** break ALL THE TIME, look for a poly urthane one that BENDS. Avoid all fiberglass versions. LOUVERS: They are lame and if I see you with them on your car, I'm laughing AT YOU. REAR SPOILER: Read "louvers" TBI: Truth be told its not that bad. If you want to MPI your s*** the cheap way: here's how to do it. Tap & add 2 additional injectors after getting your hands on a 86 ecu. Why the 86 and not the 89? Here's why: The 89 has a primary and secondary injector. The primary sprays to about 2k rpm then the secondary kicks in. The 86 sprays both in an alternating sequence. When you add the injectors, put on the clips and run them parallel from the stock ones. IE. Injec 1 goes to clip A, injec 2 goes to clip B. Make sure you have the same injectors and not using stock ones. Injector 1, Clip A should be on cylinder 1 & 4/ Injec 2, Clip B on 2 & 4 - that's it. Not really rocket science when you REALLY think about it but you leave it up to these low life scum bags on here and they'll sell you everything under the Sun but the truth. EXHAUST: It's only a pipe, stay away from name brands because they wont make you faster. You'll just be that idiot that paid $500 for a pipe. TUNE: As a mention, the ONLY time you should go MPI is when you anticipate a tune. You can TUNE the TBI however you must do it manually, this means taking OFF the vacuum advance and dialing back the distributor by hand. Swapping out the MAFS for a 4g63 one is a start and will help it breathe. Well I'm done for now . . . if you guys have anything to say in contrary to the above statement - race me first. #**********
  2. What ever happened to the DIY MS2 part? I've done the same thing and am worried about the tune -
  3. I need a brake booster, the master cylinder and etc is a plus. When you call, tell me about these lines you speak of -
  4. I'll buy, call me asap 6788518513
  5. That's interesting . . . . looking back on all this, it cost about the same . . . I could have ran with a 2jz as well but in the end I'm going to sell the car and some people want the original motor
  6. Does anyone know where I can download the COM drivers for the Tuner Studio? Running a DB9 (male) & USB cord for connection. <--- its one cord :-)
  7. Thanks my man! Your white G54 is amazingly clean :-) Hope I can accomplish that level of clean on my build.
  8. The HP statement was just benchmark suggesting that you need to be fast for us to even talk - its wasnt a real requirement. I'm a lil disappointed so many people took it that way but its all love. The car is done the build and beginning the tuning process now so . . . . really I'm str8. We're filming now, truth be told - people dont look at our cars the way that we do. Any opportunity to get a lil shine is bonus to each of us and the cars we drive. I'd figured I have more support then what I'm actually receiving :-(
  9. I don't refer shops because in my personal opinion they over charge and usually under deliver. I have gotten a basic mechanic to assemble the motor with my parts to performance spec. Currently running a MS3 and if you know anyone with a base map - please email me :-) I'll be running around Gwinnett area real soon as soon as it starts (filming now). I'll be talkin trash and raping Hondas across the street from Wild Bills.
  10. I appreciate the advice my man, you seem to know ya stuff. I understand that these cars are torque monsters. I'm not aiming for the number as much as being a member of the club. In respect, the number means nothing to me personally - its all about how it runs and winning. I've rebuilt the motor from the crank shaft up with all new parts - schnieder springs and arp everything is just the start. You'll see a snippet real soon :-)
×
×
  • Create New...