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83 stlye fiberglass hood, pins?


Cory_Bear
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Hello everyone, i am looking at a 83 style fiberglass hood for my starion, in the description it says that they recomend hood pins for saftey. does anyone use hood pins? or has anyone had a problem with a hood scoop style of hood catching air and causing it to wobble?

 

Thanks cory

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Almost any F/G, C/F, or composite hood you buy will recommend using hood pins. I would advise it also. Keep in mind that the threaded bosses/bungs in the hood are still just set in fiberglass and plastic, so if to much air gets under the hood it can pull thoses threaded inserts out of the hood and send it back over your windshield. I figure it is better safe than sorry. There was another thread about this awhile back. Check the search on it and I'll bet you will find it. That thread should tell you all you need to know.

 

BC_99

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Like BC said, better safe than sorry, but it could depend on the design of the hood. Not sure which hood you were looking at, but I'm assuming it's the MK1 hood. I'm not sure what those hoods use for mounting points, but the only way I would even consider NOT using pins is if the mounting points laid in the hood are steel. Also, how the hood is laid up will affect it too. Like BC said, get some air pockets around the hardware and they could fail, wether they are steel or aluminum. Air pockets happen more commonly on hand laid parts that aren't vaccum bagged. Vaccum bagging will suck out all, or at least most of the air pockets. So, a vaccum bagged part with steel mounting plates would be the safest bet without hood pins. I'm not 100%, but I'm pretty sure the MK1 hoods were vaccum bagged, but I'm unsure if the mounting plates are aluminum or steel.

 

There are other 83 hoods out there that were made a few years ago by someone else on molds I now own. When they were making them, they were using aluminum plates for mounting hardware, and they were prone to stripping out. I wouldn't trust those without hood pins, at least on the front of the hood. The molds I have are for 83 style and cowl style, but the 83 mold was damaged so I never made any 83 style hoods on my own. However, with the cowl hoods I made, I went with steel mounting points instead of aluminum, due to the added strength. Currently, I have suspended making hoods on those molds because I was not 100% happy with the parts they produced, so I am having the molds rebuilt so they can produce higher quality parts (with steel mounting points, of course), but I don't expect those to be ready for many months.

 

 

 

Now, all that being said..... The hood that is on my car now is a cowl hood that was made many years ago by the guy who first offered these off the mold I now own. It has the aluminum mounting points, but I was careful when puting in the screws and didn't over tighten them. They have held fine for over 4 years now. However, just because I have been lucky and not had any problems, that doesn't mean that everyone else would have the same results. You MIGHT be fine without pins, but if you had them, then you would ABSOLUTELY be fine.

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Thanks everyone for the replys, The hood i am talking about is on ebay, just type in 83 starion hood in the search engine and it comes up. I may just get a real nice set of hood pins and get the hood, or possible make vents in the factory hood. Thanks again
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If you want to get smaller than the normal spectre kit that autozone sells. LMK I can get you what we run on our race cars, they are smaller and alot higher quality (stainless steel) than the normal parts store chrome plated junk.

 

BC_99

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