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POR15 on aluminum


Killtodie
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Anyone have experience if POR 15 sticks to aluminum?

 

When I was painting my subframe I found that it didnt apply well to smooth, non rusted metal, even after using the zinc compound. It just didnt layer much. I want to use it on some aluminum parts for protection, its a good thick paint that does not chip easily.

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be VERY carful with that stuff, if you are spraying it, your lungs cannot purge that crap out

it turns hard like when plastic body filler is used too thick and when near any heat it falls off after its ' baked' by the heat

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It looks like you can use it on aluminum if you use the proper prep

 

(see step 3)

http://www.por15.com...0directions.pdf

 

 

Yeah, I have some metal ready and I used it on a shinny, non-pours surface but even after applying a bunch it did not leave a zinc surface like described.

 

But it looks like it should work, I'll give it another try.

 

 

Dang stuff does not get cheaper when you buy a small amount, a quart is only $5 more than a pint, $32 vs 28

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I plan on using POR15 as a base coat on things like intake, TB and oil cover. alongside the oil pan. I will then paint over it and from my experience so far paint seems to stick better to POR15 then just bare metal.

Whenever I paint over covers, I use self etching primer and then paint and the slightest touch of anythign puts chips in there. Por15 seems to provide better protection and definatly stick to metal better than self etching primer so that's why I wanna use it as a base coat.

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I would not use it as your base coat. I would get the correct metal primer for the metal your painting. Etch / clean maybe even ruff up the metal depending on metal, then paint. Might as well just have them powder coated since they are easy take off items.
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Strip block of any coating to bare metal. (some say if it has good coating now to ruff that up as it will stick better to that) but if not strip to bare, prime with metal primer for metal you are painint, also consider temps it wll get to in primer paint selecting. Then paint with topcoat that will handle heat, oil, ect. Get phone book or internet and find local automotive paint place and ask them what they got for it.

 

If you just don't care and want to splash it with paint, just spray it with some rattle can high temp spray.

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I wanted to cover my block in por15.... does it really trap that much heat? what other paint can I use?

por15 makes excellent engine enamels-----proper prep of ur block and ur good to go----did my intake and block on my 76 eldo 6 yrs ago and still looks like new---prep is the KEY---

gig out

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Anyone have experience if POR 15 sticks to aluminum?

 

 

Toadie,

 

You should coat yourself in POR15. That way you could protect yourself from negative comments :lol:

 

Bill

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And if you're skin is sensitive or anything, you can actually get chemical burns from POR-15.

 

My skin is used to being in solvents and such so it doesn't bother me, but my wife did the POR-15 on her car and got a nasty chemical burn on her arm from it.

 

 

I like POR-15 a lot, but personally I would do other coatings to my engine bay pieces, aluminum parts, etc...

 

 

POR-15 works great on all materials, as long as you use the proper prep, etch primers and POR-15 product. If you've got lots of different types of parts (aluminum, steel, parts that get hot), you're going to need lots of different POR-15 products, and that will get expensive. Half the stuff you list can be rattle canned with something that will work just fine and be way cheaper than buying a bunch of different POR-15 products.

 

 

Since you are always posting about finding the cheapest ways to do things, I would be shocked to see you actually pony up hundreds of dollars in POR-15 product when you can find other cheaper methods for similar results.

Edited by Burton
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The quart of POR15 I got from Justin dried up and was almost empty, I want to buy another quart to have around and touch up some things, like my new front fenders, I want to paint the inner part with POR15 because they will be rolled and not have any plastic fenders. That and I want to cover up my door hinges and anything else below the fender that will be exposed to the elements.

 

I figure since POR15 sticks very well, it will make an excellent base coat. When I painted my rear subframe and then removed by diff, it got beat up and the top paint and primer came off but the POR15 layer stayed in place.

 

I figure since I was planning on covering my engine block in POR15 I might as well use it on things like the intake, oil pan and front oil cover. Yes, I'm trying to keep it cheap so I dont think I'll be buying different products, MAYBE the velvet black. But definitely a quart of POR15.

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POR15 will fade when the sun hits it. I know that engines and other things won't see the sun. I would not just put POR15 on your engine parts. Use their engine enamel. It is good stuff. You would first put a coat of POR15 then apply the engine enamel. Like others are saying you have to prep it properly or you will be throwing away money.

 

I put POR15 on a license plate bracket and nothing else. It is now coming off. Many years later. I should have put a top coat on it.

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I've used engine enamel paint on my transmission and its starting to flake off. I used it over self etching primer.

 

Nothing wrong with overkill. Remember, I used diamond plate on my rails.

 

I also used POR15 on my rotors, covered up the edges where the rust was forming, 2 years later its still there, not flaking, standing up to all the heat. I figure POR15 will be a good base coat on my block. My top coat will be something else.

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i just spent 10 minutes typeing out a reply and it disapear'd , so i'm not going to redo it,,

 

i will say painting or useing POR15 on the out side of the block is not the important thing here,, it's takeing care to not cause rust on the internal surfaces such as cyl walls and oil and coolant passages,, this can distroy the engine your trying so hard to build right

 

cyl walls can and will rust almost as your looking at them ,,take time to coat them with some thing to prevent rust from forming ,

and air dry all parts includeing passages for oil and coolant emmediately

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