Polcat87

Im currently in Crestview Fl.(near Pensacola)I heard of a few in Pcola...

This is what Top End Performance states about the BOV/Bypass system... I thought it was very helpfull!! "The Compressor Bypass (or Blow-Off)Valve seems to be the most misunderstood part in a Turbo system. Everyone wants one. Almost everyone buys one. And almost no one understands what it does or how it works. We sell an awful lot of Bypass valves every month to Starion and other car owners and about 75% of those people call not understanding how to make it work or claiming it does not work. We always get them fixed up but it can be frustrating. Here is a breif lesson in Bypass valves. Once you understand how simple it is and what it does you will never have a problem again. The object of a Bypass valve is to relieve the excessive boost pressure that builds up between the Turbo and Throttle body when you let off the gas to shift or decellerate. It really was not designed as a noisemaker although many people think that is all it is for.We do agree that it sounds pretty cool when it blows off, but that is a by-product of its function, not the design. If you are running 15psi boost and slam the throttle shut the boost pressure spikes up and tries to drive the compressor wheel backwards into the Turbo. This does 3 things... First...it stalls the Turbo so that when you open the throttle back up it has to spool up allover again causing lag and hesitation. Second...It puts a terrible load on the thrust bearing of the Turbo which can cause premature wear and failure. Third...It weakens all your soft connections in the intercooler plumbing from excessive expansion and contraction. It is a very simple device. it has a Diaphragm and a Valve (Much like an engine valve) When the Valve is shut the boost stays in the system and when it is open you get the Whoosh sound and the boost blows off. This is all done with a Single Vacuum and Boost connection. When the engine is under boost the valve is pressed shut by its own spring and the force of the boost pressure on it. This insures no boost leaks. When the throttle is shut and the engine goes from pressure to vacuum the valve is LIFTED off its seat and the excess pressure vents to the Atmosphere (or possibly back into the intake tract)depending on your particular installation. It is critical that you have a good connection to the bypass valve. it has strong vacuum demands to operate. You must be hooked up to a source that is below the throttle plate when it is closed. This will insure PRESSURE under boost conditions and VACUUM under closed or part throttle conditions. To insure you have a good source start the engine and put your finger over the connection you want to use. Make sure that it sucks good against your finger at idle then stops sucking when you open the throttle.( or hook up a vacuum gauge to it and make sure it makes at least 18-25 inches of vacuum when you open the throttle and snap it back shut again.) On an Airflow Meter or Mass Air Sensor equipped car it is critical that the bypass valve be closed at idle. If it hangs open under idle conditions it will cause a few problems like stalling when you come back to idle. poor idle quality, and poor part throttle driveability. The HKS Racing bypass valve that we use has an adjustment to correct this type of problem. Some of the non-adjustable valves or those with very light springs will (if they stay open at idle )have to have the discharge routed back into the plumbing betwen the Turbo and the Airflow Meter or Mass Air sensor. If you are uncertain if the valve is staying open at idle just block off the discharge with your hand and see if the idle changes. if it has no effect you are probably safe."

Most common is the steering center link, and/or the coupler. There are many good treads on here going into details about the steering problems.

I bought my kit from "DAD" and it was perfect. It comes with a the gaskets, as once you start disassembling the TB, you mine as well change them all...

I bought the BOSH O2 replacement for the car. Is there a specific "Heated" one to get or is this one? It makes perfect sense what you are saying, but isn’t that the CTS's job to warm up the car..dump more fuel until normal operating temperature is achieved, then the O2 Kicks in to close the loop? Do I have that correct?

That is good news. I want to be able to tune it my car myself, but I don’t really want to spend the money RIGHT now on a wide band...if I don’t need to. I can pay for an hour tune on the dyno. Once he gets me close, I will pick one up after I recoup some of this hard spending...lol

I just bought a MAFT. It should be here next week. I guess I will need a wide band to get the proper reading as well. I have a narrow band now (not hooked up). I wanted to get a fuel PSI gauge to monitor the PSI in the car. I have heard about the liquid gauge and their inconsistency. I am at the point where I want to make sure this car is good to go. Last time I checked the A/F, I was super rich. The mechanic said I was off the charts with how rich it was under boost..said something like I was under 10...something.. His digital gauge didn’t read that far down or something. I guess I with the MAFT I will be able to have a little more control in the A/F department. How do I need to set the regulator? at Idle, or under Boost? That’s where I’m confused. Obviously I need to set it at idle first, then after I look to see where I’m at under boost, now how do I adjust it from there? I guess I’m just not catching on..It’s not like me, but....

The more I look at them on line, the more mine looks like the ones for sale...Is there a visual difference between a rising rate and a non? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=180483423348 looks identical....

I dont belive it is a rising rate..My friend actually left it at my house...so I tried it...it ran better...lol It looks like an ebay special, blue, has a nice gauge on it...

pm'd

Ok...well I should have specified earlier that I installed an adjustable FPR....not a stock one..Sorry... That might clear up any confusion there... I also have installed a boost gauge in the factory location. I need to install my A/F gauge, but after doing some reading I'm not sure where to tap into..some say near the ECU, others dont...They are in the car, but wires just ran down to nowhere..lol I will check the PSI when I am under boost. So If I understand this correctly, if I set it at 40psi @ Idle, when I am WOT it will raise/or lower 10 psi or increase 10 psi to 50....Im still a little confused as to what I need to do after I check the Psi @ WOT. Do I need to change anything? What am I looking for specifically? I will definitely get the correct plugs as posted above. I know how important that is. So I should be good on my turbo/fuel set up up to 18 lbs of boost as long as all systems are working properly? What kind of ECU mod can I do to help with the fuel input? Money isn't always an issue if I know its going to be the correct way to fix it. Its a toy, not my daily driver. I do not mind spending money if I know its going to be the right money to spend. I have three other daily driving cars to use. I already have WAY more $$$ than my girlfriend would like in this car, but she thinks its cute still, so I'm still in cool water..lol A compression test would be a good idea. What am I looking for th cyl's to be? I know they should be within a range of each other, but whats a good number for these engines? If they are low, the Jet valve's are??? Thanks again for all the great input! Its amazing how much knowledge is on this site...

As for the plugs, I just went and installed new plugs....but I just got what AutoZone’s computer told me to...I will change them to those NGK's..Now they come pre gaped @ .044...I thought the preferred gap was .032...Is that incorrect? I need to test the Vac advance..Not sure how, but I guess I’ll search and see. I don’t have a need to drive the car at max boost for that long...lol but I do notice when I am on it, the boost isn’t as steady. The boost flutters a little bit when boosting hard. My injectors do not leak, the TB did, but I replaced the gaskets and were good to go for leaks. So your saying its best to get a raising rate PSI regulator? Is that how your getting your 1:1 ratio? Do stock regulators do this normally? My fuel pump and filter were changed right before I bought the car. That was what I was told..It had the typical "wont run" issue (before I bought it)and he changed those two items, had the injectors cleaned. That’s what I was told anyway. Where is the easiest place to "jump" the Fuel pump under the hood?

No, I just replaced the 1 wire O2 tonight.. I wold like one, but I'm not to sure on how all that works..just yet.. I'm a fast learner..lol

Well I finally got my car back in running order. A little background...I bought it bone stock with a lot of leaks, and some other Mal-care issues. I have addressed all the Major issues and now have a great set up. 1G mass, 89 ECU, 16G TDO5 turbo, 2.5" turbo back exhaust, BSE kit with all new timing components. Well ever since I bought the car I had a missing issue at full throttle under stock conditions. Well I blew the stock turbo (on purpose) and upgraded to the 16G, and the problems were still there. I cleaned everything, replaced everything I could think of and finally installed a Fuel PSI regulator and after that everything was great! I know I am looking for 35PSI at idle, but is that at stock condition? With my upgrades should I be looking for more? Whats the magic number I should be looking for both stock and under boost, because I am still missing a little bit under 15psi at WOT....ANy other suggestions are greatly appreciated... Thanks in advance for the great help on here! Josh

If you go to the "personal" tab and click "other" for reason for payment, then there is no charges...at last its worked for me on lesser payments that is..I or the other person does not get charged... It may help in future purchases...