Lizzord30 Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 After MPI swap, it seams to stay in first gear longer then before to about 3k or slightly higher even under light accel. before it goes into 2nd. Plus when driving hard it goes from 1st to second but out of second very quickly and into 3rd. Any ideas? I do have the vac source for the trans in the intake plentum instead of the running would that effect this? I havnt noticed any slipping yet, but just seams weird. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 I don't know for sure if thats whats causing your problem, but the vacuum level is going to be higher close to the valves in a small runner versus far from the valves in a big plenum. The oppisite is true for boost. Also keep in mind as your power increase the torque convertor's behaviour will change somewhat but I don't think that would be gear specific. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 sounds like your going from 1st to 3rd and then into final lockup, you sure 2nd gear is working right? drive it manually, L to 2 to D and see what it does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lizzord30 Posted June 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 sounds like your going from 1st to 3rd and then into final lockup, you sure 2nd gear is working right? drive it manually, L to 2 to D and see what it does. I am not sure if its going to 2nd in D but it does go from L to 2 and shift into second no problem. If found my Kick down sensor was adjusted in a way that it wasn't getting pushed so that should help some of the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 kick down switch is only for when you put your foot all the way down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lizzord30 Posted June 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 (edited) kick down switch is only for when you put your foot all the way downI know. OD still not working Edited June 3, 2012 by Lizzord30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 but your the one without a coolant switch correct? if so, why haven't you bought one at autozone yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 I know that my MAP sensor wouldn't read right in certain places of the manifold. There was a line off the back plate and it wasn't quite right, then I put a T in a line from the middle-side and it was much better. So it could be the placement in the manifold. It's pretty easy to try a different spot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 the trans is non electronic, map wouldn't have any bearing, the vacuum line to the modulator however may have a leak.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lizzord30 Posted June 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 (edited) but your the one without a coolant switch correct? if so, why haven't you bought one at autozone yet?I think your mistake what I am trying to do with the Coolant switch I dont have a place to put it in my intake, and actualy I just dont like having it I would rather use the button on the shifter to control it. But more then that the wires that where their are gone since I removed the ECU harness with the MPI swap. I know that my MAP sensor wouldn't read right in certain places of the manifold. There was a line off the back plate and it wasn't quite right, then I put a T in a line from the middle-side and it was much better. So it could be the placement in the manifold. It's pretty easy to try a different spot.My Map and trans are off of the side of the intake boost gage, BOV, and Trans are all T'ed Off the same one since I dont have enof inlets on my intake..... may need to add more later. the trans is non electronic, map wouldn't have any bearing, the vacuum line to the modulator however may have a leak..Tech was just using the map signal as an example of placement of the vac line effecting the vac signal. Anyways Now the downshift is working well and wow does it hit hard when it downshifts. When driving hard it hits my rev limiter at 6.5k not sure if the trans not working right or if it just wants more rpms lol. At lest some of my problem i think can me helped with adjusting the shift linkage, because sometimes when it says 2nd i am in D but move it around and it will go correctly. Edited June 4, 2012 by Lizzord30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 I think your mistake what I am trying to do with the Coolant switch I dont have a place to put it in my intake, and actualy I just dont like having it I would rather use the button on the shifter to control it. But more then that the wires that where their are gone since I removed the ECU harness with the MPI swap.I am seeing more of what the problem is, how big is the line you are using for all your vacuum connections? you might want to get a vacuum block and run them off of the brake booster vacuum hose connection.http://www.amazon.com/Vacuum-Manifold-Kit-With-Ports/dp/B008495SCY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lizzord30 Posted June 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 Some great info I found on another form this may really help me out since I used a somewhat long very flexable silicone vac line to connect the factory line with mine. "the transmission is so dependent upon the modulator to function properly, a good vacuum signal must be transferred from the intake manifold down to the modulator. The best way to insure this is to utilize hard steel line to carry the vacuum signal with approximately three inches (maximum) of rubber hose on each end for the connections. This setup will prevent the hose from cracking or burning in areas that are close to the exhaust system and will also reduce the chances of the hose collapsing onto itself. Most modulators require a minimum of 15 inches of Hg (Mercury) at idle to function properly." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 Some great info I found on another form this may really help me out since I used a somewhat long very flexable silicone vac line to connect the factory line with mine. "the transmission is so dependent upon the modulator to function properly, a good vacuum signal must be transferred from the intake manifold down to the modulator. The best way to insure this is to utilize hard steel line to carry the vacuum signal with approximately three inches (maximum) of rubber hose on each end for the connections. This setup will prevent the hose from cracking or burning in areas that are close to the exhaust system and will also reduce the chances of the hose collapsing onto itself. Most modulators require a minimum of 15 inches of Hg (Mercury) at idle to function properly."yes, that's why you shouldn't throw out the hard line it comes with OEM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts