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side wing repair


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#1 bha280

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 07:09 AM

I am swapping some parts from a wreaked car to its replacement, and when I took the two side pieces off of the rear wing, the rearmost threaded part for mounting just disintegrated on both sides. What is the fix for this? I still have the threaded parts, it's the mounting for that that is molded(?) to the wing that rusted away. Thanks
1988 Starion 5-speed- AMC head, Schnieder HD springs and 292 cam, Wiseco's, Pauter Rods, adjustable cam gear, ported Evo III 16G, 3" turbo back, lightened/balanced flywheel, polished/balanced crank, SS braided oil and coolant lines for turbo, full hard pipes w/ TurboXS BOV and MBC, Trilogy injectors, MSD blaster 2 coil, 8.5mm wires, stress relieved and ported exhaust manifold, ported intake manifold, LSP 52mm TB, ARP everything, EGR, A/C, and cruise removed, silicon vacuum lines, STB's front and rear, ABS delete, 3" GM MAF-T Gen II, D/S rotors, SS brake lines, Innovate wideband, adjustable FPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, AutoMeter boost gauge, GM alternator, SS clutch line, meshies, factory hatch spoiler, mud flaps, Mookeh rear struts and adjustable front inserts, Cosmo dual-spring Coilovers, Mookeh pillow ball camber plates F/R, rebuilt trans, short throw, MSD 6a, poly bushings.

Soon to be in a flatty!





#2 87redcat

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 07:52 AM

You could get a longer bolt with the same threads, drill out where them mount was originally a little deeper and epoxy the new bolt in place
I got blisters on my fingers!!!

#3 bha280

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 12:14 PM

That's a darnn good idea. Thanks for that.
1988 Starion 5-speed- AMC head, Schnieder HD springs and 292 cam, Wiseco's, Pauter Rods, adjustable cam gear, ported Evo III 16G, 3" turbo back, lightened/balanced flywheel, polished/balanced crank, SS braided oil and coolant lines for turbo, full hard pipes w/ TurboXS BOV and MBC, Trilogy injectors, MSD blaster 2 coil, 8.5mm wires, stress relieved and ported exhaust manifold, ported intake manifold, LSP 52mm TB, ARP everything, EGR, A/C, and cruise removed, silicon vacuum lines, STB's front and rear, ABS delete, 3" GM MAF-T Gen II, D/S rotors, SS brake lines, Innovate wideband, adjustable FPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, AutoMeter boost gauge, GM alternator, SS clutch line, meshies, factory hatch spoiler, mud flaps, Mookeh rear struts and adjustable front inserts, Cosmo dual-spring Coilovers, Mookeh pillow ball camber plates F/R, rebuilt trans, short throw, MSD 6a, poly bushings.

Soon to be in a flatty!

#4 Paul87Quest

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Posted 09 June 2018 - 11:10 AM

Be careful drilling...the rust migrates into the mount which is molded into the side piece from the factory and it may just crumble away.  I welded a good one from a ruined spoiler to the remainder of my original to save the spoiler mount on mine.  I would recommend removing ALL rust with a wire wheel on a drill and apply a serious coat of pant after the rust is removed on those mounts before final assembly - dirt gets caught in there and then the moisture does not leave after a car wash.  If you have any Por 15 or any rust converting spray paint I would coat all mounts.  This water gets into the molded in part and that what causes the bulging you see on the sides as the water tries to expand on hot days that is caught in there. Talking from first hand experience here.




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