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#1 IntercooledFlatty

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Posted 07 April 2015 - 03:07 PM

This 86' Flatty started out as an automatic car so the trans tunnel is a lil larger than the 5 speeds. After several 2.6l set up's i got really aggravated and decided this will be the V8 swap i've always wanted to do. The cross-member was altered as well as the oil pan, but the stock steering is all in place, for now, with plans later down the road to do a rack.
The motor mounts are solid, the trans mount uses the stock brace altered with a 904 insulated mount. Shifter is a B&M hammer. Rear end is stock with 3.90's. Exhaust is block hugger headers with true duals to the rear flowing through a 2 in/2 out muffler with a built in X pipe.  The motor is a 67' 318 craigslist buy. I was told it had about 6 k on it and after opening it up it sure looks the part. It came with an Edelbrock intake and chrome valve covers, and supposedly an Edelbrock cam. Not bad for $150 bucks, it has 302 casting Indy heads with a  comp cam xe262-he kit. Trans is out a 70 Dart built with a trans-go 2 kit, but changing to a full manual forward pattern. Ignition is a HEI set up vac. advance with MSD wires and coil. Carb. is a Holley Street Avenger, prob too big but i already had it. Mr. Gasket electric fuel pump with regulator that is using the factory hard lines to and fro adapted to steel braided lines. Air intake is a tube and a K&N.
Cooling is handled by a 1/2JZ Radiator with dual 10" fans using a thermostat and override switch.
Gauges are Autometer mechanical oil and water, and a monster tach with a shift light. I need to figure out a led light of some sort for when the fuel tank sender sends a low fuel signal that is about 5v if i remember correctly. I'm also looking to maybe do a volt gauge from .3v to 4.8v which is what the sender sends for full/empty or whatever the exact numbers are  Posted Image
Rear seat is eliminated and a box is in it's place to store the amps, wires, emergency stuff, etc.

Edited by IntercooledFlatty, 22 January 2016 - 12:49 PM.

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#2 speedyquest

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Posted 07 April 2015 - 03:21 PM

Do dat copy paste son

1987 Flatty Starion -- Widebody Conversion -- V-Mount Setup --  JDL Tubular Manifold  --  MX-6 Intake -- MS3-Pro -- AEM FPR  --  ARP head studs -- 3" hood exit exhaust -- Hahn Racecraft 16g --  Tial F38 Wastegate -- Tial Q Bov -- Short route piping -- 5 lug & LSD conversion -- Tubular Front End -- Manual Steering Rack Conversion -- Manual Brake Conversion -- Stack Digital Dash -- AEM UEGO -- D2 coilovers -- full GNT poly bushings & mounts -- four 8" rears -- car lightened significantly...  More to come!


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Build Thread --->  http://www.starquest...opic=143564&hl=


#3 screemin eagle

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Posted 08 April 2015 - 02:17 PM

That guy Gary keeps purging me. Can't be seein yo stuffs my ninja
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#4 IntercooledFlatty

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Posted 09 April 2015 - 08:20 AM

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heading to the paint shop
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Edited by IntercooledFlatty, 04 August 2015 - 01:52 PM.

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#5 IntercooledFlatty

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Posted 09 April 2015 - 08:21 AM

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Edited by IntercooledFlatty, 04 August 2015 - 01:54 PM.

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#6 speedyquest

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Posted 09 April 2015 - 03:34 PM

Post dat contentz hur!

1987 Flatty Starion -- Widebody Conversion -- V-Mount Setup --  JDL Tubular Manifold  --  MX-6 Intake -- MS3-Pro -- AEM FPR  --  ARP head studs -- 3" hood exit exhaust -- Hahn Racecraft 16g --  Tial F38 Wastegate -- Tial Q Bov -- Short route piping -- 5 lug & LSD conversion -- Tubular Front End -- Manual Steering Rack Conversion -- Manual Brake Conversion -- Stack Digital Dash -- AEM UEGO -- D2 coilovers -- full GNT poly bushings & mounts -- four 8" rears -- car lightened significantly...  More to come!


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Build Thread --->  http://www.starquest...opic=143564&hl=


#7 screemin eagle

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Posted 09 April 2015 - 10:02 PM

I try but I never get the email approvals.
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#8 JohnnyWadd

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Posted 10 April 2015 - 02:45 AM

Hood spacers are winning the show !

#9 IntercooledFlatty

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Posted 13 April 2015 - 08:29 AM

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home :D
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Edited by IntercooledFlatty, 04 August 2015 - 01:58 PM.

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#10 IntercooledFlatty

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 11:13 AM

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yo B, what do you think ?
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#11 slowquest

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 11:44 AM

I asked a question over on 2.6, but haven't seen a response yet.....    I'll ask again here. What, if anything, did you do to the crossmember and what oil pan did you use?  I've currently got an LA sitting in one and can't get it back as far as i'd like, due to the pan hitting the crossmember.  I'm using an early 70's car center/front sump pan.  Looks easy enough to get the clearance, but thought i'd ask someone who's been there.

#12 GINASQ

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 05:02 PM

I got the same issue as far as signing up again. Can we get that content though?
-James

#13 IntercooledFlatty

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Posted 23 June 2015 - 08:59 AM

I was hoping to get pics and post em for you doods but things have been crazy the last 6 months. i'm still not finished with her as i need to change the idle arm bushing and put in the manual valve body. i've been showing her but really haven't driver her much, she is quick :D we cut the cross member, angled it back around the pan using 2x3, and modded the pan like project conquistador using the half round pipe but i really think the pan didn't need it, it would have been close tho. with solid mounts ( truck mounts )  nothing is going anywhere. the headers are summit block huggers with the #7 modded to fit around the steering box. easy fix. the motor is as far back as we could get it with enough room for the dizzy. it also sits nice and low with the cross member out of the way. i built this to have fun as a street cruiser, cruise night, something different toy, BUT, if i were to do another :ph34r: , i will definitely cut the fire wall and run a rack and full length headers.
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#14 IntercooledFlatty

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Posted 23 June 2015 - 09:03 AM

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the Dood approves :lol:
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Edited by IntercooledFlatty, 04 August 2015 - 02:03 PM.

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#15 slowquest

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Posted 23 June 2015 - 02:05 PM

How are the solid mounts?  I've tossed around that idea a lot, but can't pull the trigger on it, afraid of it being too harsh.  I already cut the crossmember and doesn't look like i'm going to have to mod the pan any.  Only issue is the drain plug being on the back of the sump is VERY close to the crossmember now.  Also, I know yours was an original auto car, did you have to clearance anything at all?  Mine is a manual, and the 727 seems huge sitting in there.  Hits in multiple places.

Edited by slowquest, 23 June 2015 - 02:07 PM.


#16 IntercooledFlatty

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Posted 24 June 2015 - 09:20 AM

no prob with the solid mounts. i actually love feeling everything and it rides nice too. kyb's all around with eibach's and poly bushings. we moved the drain plug ;) i cut some of the extended mounts on the trans body that the factory uses ti lift/move them around so it fit much better but there was one spot of the tunnel i used a bfh to massage it in. i run a 904. it's tight in there with the dual exhaust -_-
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#17 natedog_37

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Posted 25 June 2015 - 11:16 AM

Nice.  There was a artical some where on the net that showed how to install a 360 with little work. Always wanted to do it.
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#18 IntercooledFlatty

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Posted 16 July 2015 - 04:47 PM

http://www.flickrive...ics/3622284792/

http://starquest.i-x...77cc87ca7632329

Edited by IntercooledFlatty, 16 July 2015 - 04:50 PM.

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#19 Crazy larry

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Posted 16 July 2015 - 05:13 PM

Were is Ted Wagners 340 beast?       Flatty Mopars Rule!!!!
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#20 IntercooledFlatty

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Posted 22 July 2015 - 11:57 AM

View PostCrazy larry, on 16 July 2015 - 05:13 PM, said:

Were is Ted Wagners 340 beast?    Flatty Mopars Rule!!!!

it was at Carlisle not too long ago, and i agree on the flattyZ :lol:
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