jr_ss

Alright still have the oil cooler SS lines. I'll let them go for $115 shipped. I also have my Boost and A/F gauges in pod still available. I'll let them go for $100 shipped. The boost and a/f guages are Autometer sport compact 2 1/16th gauges. This is for manual seatbelt cars only...SOLD!!! Also have rear seat set of the checker board style interior. It's a blueish color, immaculate, needs to be cleaned and I'll vacuum before shipment. This will include the side surrounding pieces with back and bottom seat. (Shipping will be quite expensive 2 boxes and figuring $50 a box). I'm not looking for a killing just want it gone and to go to good use. $175 shipped OBO...SOLD!!! Have a set of Starion taillights as well not sure how much they go for. They are both in damn near perfect condition, I think one had a slight leak not sure. I'll do $80 shipped for them.SOLD!!! I also have flatside starion style unpainted side markers. I'll let them go for $30 shipped. I have new rocker arm retaining springs, cam pins, waved washers for valve train, and a few seals, front main, tranny input shaft plate seal, power steering seal, and timing chain access panel gasket. $25 shipped for the entire bag. I also have an exhaust manifold with a T3 flange welded on it, needs to be ported and possibly checked for flatness. $100 shipped. I can get pictures of all the items listed. PM me if intersted in anything. Glenn

Good luck bud, I'm sure it'll fire right up. I should've told you that the TDC for cyl 1 was the marker line on the rotor and that it needed to be inbetween the magnets in the dizzy. You'll get it to fire up tomorrow and you'll be stoked. I know I was when mine fired up.

What a douche... Nice work man, the car looks good. Bet that thing will be a blast to drive do the 1320, no pun intended..

I'm right there with you Outlander. I too purchased from CooperTsi and in return I recieved nothing.I've talked with him a few times on the phone, and I get the same run around everytime. He's really busy, he started a new job, he was moving, blah blah. I don't want to hear it anymore, send my stuff out or send my money back. I do not recommend purchasing from him period. If you do goodluck with getting your parts or your money back. I don't care if you have left the board because of us "pricks", you sir are the "prick" for making an agreement to ship parts and not delivering.

I just recieved mine today, absolutely beautiful, too bad I wont be able to use it. :roll:

Ed and Scott, just made my payment. Sorry it took so long. Glenn

Glad to hear it's alive once more. One thing, with the master and new calipers, just buy em' new. Don't waste your money on used parts that will save your life if the time comes.. I'd say go over the TPS/ISC resets. Do any of the basic fixes and see how it responds to them. Glenn BTW, check out the VM for more information..

Bosch style injectors will be fine...

60-1 all day long....

The magna dizzy is an electronic distributor, that tells the computer what position the cam is in. It's like the crank trigger setup that SDS uses and that alot of other aftermarket EMS companies use...

Star, with the Hawk I had to put a resistor between 2 of those inorder for it to run on my car. I can't recall off hand which ones it was, contact Shelby, or maybe Rob can help out. I had pictures of it on my desktop but I just recently reformatted everything... So everything is gone. Glenn

I know of a guy running the tb-pro2 setup and was running consistent 13's all day...

The reason you overbore an engine is to remove any flaws in the cylinder.. It's not to increase power. Most aftermarket pistons are overbore because you have to bore and hone to round the cylinders again anyways... Going 40 or even 60 does not give you any realy gains...

Do a search, all this has been over before... There are numerous posts about this... The search function does work I promise. :roll:

It's a dodge caravan intake manifold... The van came with an N/A 2.6 the runners are well seperate from each other and don't do the Y s*** half way to the cylinders. It's a better platform than our gay a** intake manifold. Do like they were saying, add injector bungs, and make the T/B area able to take a normal Mustang T/B plate and you should have a good start. I'd try to make a fuel rail for it but it might be alittle harder...