Posted 17 May 2018 - 06:08 PM
Here's the rundown.
Body is very straight with the exception of one small creased indent at the back driver's side corner. Ony rust I saw was rot on the passenger's side front fender, the flat part that fits under the rocker. Easy weld. Car was painted once the same color, paint overall is pretty nice, could use a wax, but even just the wash he gave it helped a bunch. As you can see in the photos, 3 of the 4 corners have been tagged, Nothing too badly. Both rear lenses will need replacement (I found a site that has OEM lenses for $350/each running a 10% off sale shipping is $70 to LA from Japan. Tons of other OEM parts as well, it seems. Glass is all clean and uncracked. Original rims (I think, not sure if 83/84 were the same wheels as I have seen other designs on other 83's). Newer uncracked Michellin tires.
Seats are all whole, minor rips, if any. They are this cool tri-color leather/fabric design that I have never seen. Grey leather on the sides of the front seats, darker grey sort of velour on the top sides, with a blueish cloth center. Back seats were similar, but less velour. Velour seems to be shedding. Foam felt like it had seen better days on the driver's side. Door panels looked fine. Carpets had some stains, but were serviceable. Headliner seemed fine. No cracks that I could see in the dash, Technica cluster seemed like it was working 100% (!) I didn't try out all the electrics, headlights went up at the same speed, signals worked, dash dimmer worked, there may be (or may have been) a problem with the passenger side window, as I saw tape residue on it. Ebrake worked. No sunroof. There was a problem with the key. It was a very (VERY) worn key from a Saturn (!) that apparently came with the car, but he made it work by jiggling it around. Yesterday he had pulled the lock cylinder from the gas door and was going to have a Mitsu key cut from that.
The battery was apparently weak, but when he attached the jumper battery, it fired right up and ran fine for a second or two, then it started idling very rough, but no smoking. The headlights didn't dim and brighten when he revved the engine, so that is a good sign the electrics are probably in good shape. All the vaccum lines looked like they were routed properly, all the vacuum routing and emissions stickers were present and easy to read on the underside of the mint condition hood. He had to stay on the gas to keep it going while i checked things over. Didn't appear that there were any vacuum leaks. The actual engine sounded good, no valve noise or anything. I checked spark with an inline tester and it was strong and bright, although i did get "bit" immediately, so I would think that the wires need to be replaced. I also noticed that the two electrical temp sensors to the gauge and the ECU were corroded AF. The temp gauge took awhile to respond, it really didn't start raising up till we drove it. It never overheated. One of the CV boots is torn. The shocks and suspension seemed like they were in great shape overall. Some wear on the sway bar linkage, but not bad at all, it rode well.
It was tough to drive, seemed like the misfiring/hesitation was throughout the RPM range, although it picked up a bit on the high end. Boosting was not active, but the LED boost gauge in the cluster was active on the dash. I think it it tied to the throttle movement, not the actual boost. The boost gauge on the dash wasn't moving. Oil pressure gauge stayed just above mid point, but didn't see it get up there or move at all. Dash was stuck on KPH not MPH. When we got back, we noticed a pinhole-ish leak on the lower radiator hose and when we opened the hood, we noticed the top part of the exhaust manifold in front of the first cat was glowing orange. Guessing the cat is plugged or partially plugged. Might be the main source of the troubles, there was also an exhaust leak midway down the car. The second cat was replaced recently. Alternator looked newer as well. Brakes were great, power steering worked well. There was grease/grime/oil on the sides/bottom of the engine/trans, but nothing leaking, even after the drive. Transmission engages smoothly, no pop outs, clutch seemed firm, although it felt light. I have several cars with stick shifts and they all feel different. I think if the cat was replaced or unplugged, plug wires replaced and those two corroded temp sensors were replaced, it would solve most of the issues. There is some guy in Texas that wants it and is trying to figure out shipping.
Clean title, $175 due to CA DMV if you are an in-stater.
If one of you SQ guys for sure wants it, I can grab it and start fixing a few things on it for you until you are ready to pick it up. I have a great transporter that is reliable and reasonable.