Jump to content

Does the intake manifold gasket require RTV sealant? TEP HGs


Recommended Posts

So my car starts, runs good and I found out the auto trans is solid but its burning coolant somehow and overheats very quick...(As you know from my previous rants of frustration <_<, no crusher intended, my apologies )

 

The manual said nothing about applying RTV when installing the intake manifold gasket but I have a feeling its sucking in coolant from the intake manifold somewhere.

 

Detailed Observations: The fool car runs good but smokes upon revs and gets worse as it runs so it sucks in more coolant progressively. When it sits the coolant does not drain into the oil or cylinders, only when its running. No bubbles in the coolant or burps. Just loses it when it runs. All plugs were wet with coolant upon removal around the tread mostly. Front plug was carboned up pretty good.

 

Should I try to increase the tq on the intake manifold bolts??

(If I can even reach the bolts while on the engine :lol: )

 

Do I need to install a new intake manifold gaket with RTV sealant in both sides?

 

Anyone know if the TEP head gaskets are good? (Seen them on eBay, good as in $60 good??)

 

I have considered tearing the entire top end off again and put in a TEP head gasket and RTV a new intake manifold gasket... Thats a sh**load of work but I know that I have torn it down once it would be much easier and quicker too the second time. Plus I want to enjoy this hard work someday.

 

Just some thoughts. I have avoided my garage for the last few weeks in frustration and I really hate to boot the Starion. Its such a bummer after the months of progress to have a steamy smoker result.

 

If it would run properly, I would do ALL the body work and repaint it to make it "the Cherry 89" as planned. The interior is in great shape and it must have been garaged most its life. My girlfriend and I feel like we just lost a child when this car came out as poorly as it did. We both busted our backs to install the top end. Me more so...

 

Thanks for reading and please shoot me any ideas if you understand whats happening as I described. I really took my time on the new top end and I cant think of anything I may have botched.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You do not need to use RTV on the intake manifold gasket, the same as you would not use it on the head gasket itself. If you gave the nuts any kind of respectable and even torque they should hold just fine without leaking. After all you are only holding back less than 20 psi in any instance. Also if you do try to retorque the manifold bolts without a torque wrench you may break a stud with the engine in the car as some of the angles you would need to reach them would be difficult to gauge without one. Aside from that, if you do have a leak through that gasket it would be very unlikely to seal properly with more torque as the gasket material is likely to be destroyed at the point where it leaked pressure and would need to be replaced.

 

You more then likely have a head gasket problem. If all cylinders were wet with coolant it would be VERY unlikely that your intake manifold which has coolant transferring from the head in only two places would manage to migrate to all cylinders without ending up running down the outside of the block beforehand. The mating surface is only a couple of inches tall yet many times that wide. Even the head gasket could have trouble with leaking coolant in an even pattern. What is your head torqued to? What head gasket? (sorry if this was mentioned in another thread)

 

What I would suggest, because it is likely a step you would take before replacing the head gasket anyway is to drain the coolant and remove the intake manifold. It is not incredibly hard to remove but it takes a little bit of creativity to get at all the nuts. Once you have done this you should be able to see if the gasket has given up. If you find that it hasn't then you are about 1/3 of the way to having the head completely removed at which point you would easily spot a leak. The cylinders are under pressures roughly 8-10 times the intake manifold BEFORE boost and leaks are fairly apparent. You also have to consider that the cylinders are under a large amount of vacuum for 1/4 of their cycle as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, the intake manifold gasket does not require RTV. All four plugs show coolant? Time to rebuild the throttle body. I'm sure you're a competent mechanic but when you buy someone else's woes you really need to go way beyond whatever they told you was wrong. I've helped enough guys in your position get cars running to realize the PO will tell you whatever gets them the most cash at resale. Assume the worst. And you are correct, the manifolds are a PITA to remove unless you just leave them on and pull the head, then its much easier and you've probably saved time and in your case get more clues as to what's actually going on.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The previous owner said the HG blew, there was cooalnt in the oil and it did not run. There was nothing shady about the deal. It was a $650 car to begin with. All things considered its still a pretty good deal. It came with a rebuilt tranny, brand new tires and the interior is in awesome shape. Just has a bogus engine :mad:

 

Thank you for the detailed replies. I have brand new ARP head studs w/ thread lube ;) that I tqd down to 95-100ft/lb as recommended by another user on here. I used a Fel Pro Head gasket. From what I have been told it could take alot of time and money to get this engine diagnosed and fixed. mainly just having a machine shop go through it would be a ton of time and money. I did a good job on the HG, took my time, spent my patience, and everything else so it must lie within the block somewhere. Its a shame because it does run good considering.

 

Anyone know if a TEP head gasket would possbly solve my issue?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...