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bzurc

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About bzurc

  • Birthday 11/15/1986

Profile Information

  • Location
    Stone Creek, Oh
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    43840
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1989
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Sophia White
  • Interior Color
    Dark Red
  • Status
    On the road

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    BzurcTSI

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  1. Hey, SQC enthusiast from way back. If anybody remembers me, I used to live on this forum. Long story short, I now have means and time to give my '89 Conquest full tear down and rotisserie restoration. The car is an all original rust free car, so I'm looking for a inner support that isn't a rusty junk or collision damaged. Air dam would be a nice addition, but I can do without. A white cover, but the entire car is being painted so it's not critical. I live in NE ohio, but am willing to do a little traveling within reason. Additionally, I have tons of black interior parts from an 89 that was wrecked in 91, then was stored until 2003. Plenty of other parts as well (20k mile drivetrain, "TURBO" door handles, all glass, rear bumper....just tons of stuff) if anybody is interested in a trade. Located in Stone Creek, Ohio, about an hour south of Cleveland, I can be reached via emai (bwzurc@gmail.com) or phone/text (330-447-0431).
  2. Nice.... Is anyone here familiar with holset's naming terminology? If so, I've got 3 brand new H1C's that were tossed from JLG when they began using HX-series holsets on their material handlers, and have been quite curious about them. I compared it to the H1C used on Cummins TD trucks, and the housings are a bit different. Exhaust AR seems a bit large for an SQ (as well as being split scroll feeds like evo's), but they may be about right for a Megasquirted slant-6 i've been working on.... EDIT: Old pics of it
  3. I hear ya, I'd even be somewhat satisfied if a non-EVO Lancer wagon was available to us for the purpose of conversion. Besides the whole registration fiasco being nearly impossible, seems like one of these would be tough to find for the purpose of importing....didn't the only make like 2,500 for the JDM?
  4. Arghhh...beat me to it. I've been pining for an EVO Wagon since I first learned of it's existance. A little less electronic assistance, but more room for non-driving activites...seems like a worthy trade off
  5. The mom&pop parts store (old-school, go in through the back door, the store front was bare and had shelves blocking the entrance and window) has the same guy working every time I go in. He always appears to be somewhere in between bong load #15 and #20. Even after coming out side and "checking this thing out, man" on two separate occasions, every time I go in and order parts for an SQ he says something along the lines of "Oh man, I haven't seen one of those cars in years, they were really ahead of their time...hard to find too". Despite his constant inebriation, my friendly neighborhood counter jockey/cannabis connoisseur really knows his stuff and it's the only place I've yet to get the wrong part. It may cost a few more bucks, but living 15 miles from the closest parts store of any type, the slightly higher cost more than makes up for wasting a trip only to find the brake rotors I was told were in stock actually fit a all-dodge 01 Stratus 4dr, when I clearly specified a 01 Stratus 2dr and urged them to cross check the part to see if it also fits a 3g Eclipse (same basic car). Pro-Tip: Never order parts from AZ/AA without the VIN handy, and preferably have the part# of what is needed handy. Then verify with the part being replaced for some compatibility....even after ordering the right thing, i've received some strange mixups....
  6. Seconded. Couple years back we ran air via copper tubing around the circumference of our decently sized garage, and once the temperature dropped low enough for condensation to form inside the lines, the budget moisture separator/filter assembly became woefully inadequate.
  7. words....cannot....explain.... If this guy's not a troll, then i'll eat my hat
  8. Shouldn't feed the trolls....but.... I'm about as big of a mopar guy as they come, and in no way should liking mopars and appreciating starquests be mutually exclusive. Perhaps if people had been a little more concerned about preserving mopars from the 60-70's they'd still be common enough to be affordable, but that's not how it works. Enthusiast cars that are cheap attract people who aren't always the preserve and collect type, obviously. Starquest aren't about to rise in value like e-body's have over the last decade, so I don't expect to be seeing it be profitable to resurrect cars beyond there prime. The only way a Starion or Conquest gets restored is if it is picked up by somebody with an strong interest/emotional attachment or if it's a really easy fix that can be repaired profitably. Interesting side note, why would you "take any of those cars over the quest any day."? Is it their monetary value, the "cool" factor (although the Cordoba seems to rule this out), or the driving experience? The monetary value is surely a plus, but driving it WILL decrease this, especially for a car of originality or fresh, correct restoration. Besides depreciation, enjoying a car because of it's impressive value doesn't make much sense. The cool factor is undeniable, especially in a desirable car like a 70-71 Challenger...but this novelty will wear off after the 5xx person ask's if it's"got a HEMI?" and tells you about their dad's friend's brother who's car would blow it off the road. The only thing left is the driving experience, which is great until you realize suspension and braking technology really did improve greatly between 1970 and 1989. Also 12mpg gets old. But the thing is, we don't like cars for logical reasons and deduced conclusions...cars are enjoyed on an emotional level. With the prices on most desirable mopars, muscle cars, ect., many cannot afford to buy a 70 challenger, or whatever gets them off. Because of the price, car enthusiasts are able to afford and tweak SQ's to their liking without breaking the bank or depreciating the value of a car they spend $50k on. Modifying a car and making it what you wanted it to be will lead to a much greater attachment and enjoyment of a car. I have a 73 Challenger that was started as a father son project when I was 11....we finished it when I was 18. Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING besides the machining of the block was done by my dad and I. Anything I was competent to be shown how to do, I did....including tons of wet sanding, crimping seat skins in place (my hands are still sore to this day), welding in the 4spd hump, painting the undercarriage, even helping port a set of aluminum heads that had been out of production for decades. What I'm saying is that I poured tons of myself into that car. That being said, I also bought an '89 Conquest when I was 15 a invested alot of time and effort into making it look better, run stronger, and handle more confidently. When it comes down to it, both are fun cars to drive....the challenger is more of any ego-boosting stick-you-in-the-back-of-the-seat-and-enjoy-the-exhaust-note-while-attracting-tons-of-looks-and-attention thing, while the Conquest is more of an all around I-can't-believe-this-car-with-so-little-money-and-time-invested-can-be-so-great-to-drive sort of fun. But if put in the position of only having to drive one of them everyday? I'll just say the SQ would be much more livable. In case you're doubting my mopar credentials, here's a pic of me/my 73 at the Carlisle '08 awards ceremony.
  9. To switch to 134a there a few ways to go about it.... The bare bones way is to pick up a couple pounds of 134a, R134a compatible oil, fitting adapters to convert from std. HVAC connectors, and a set of neoprene o-rings. The more complete way would to get the above, along with having replacement HFC-134a compliant hoses made up and replacing the low pressure cutout switch with one that can be adjusted to 134a pressure/temperature relationship. The filter/drier assembly should be replaced anytime the system is open, but some skip this step with mixed results. If you're planning on doing the conversion yourself, you'll need a manifold gauge set w/hoses, a vacuum pump, a syringe to add the oil, and a valve core remover. First, the system should be cleaned as best as possible internally, especially if it has been open to the atmosphere. The compressor should also be removed and drained of any oil that has collected in it, and the proper amount of the 134a compatible oil specified in the service manual (don't have a copy handy) should be added. Compatible o-rings (light green) are used to replace the standard black ones at all connection fittings. Next, The system should be vacuumed as low as possible, preferably to 500 microns or less. Running the pump until the gauge stops moving (should be at least 28"Hg) then an additional 10 min. should be sufficient. The gauge may rise slightly due to moisture evaporating in the system, multiple evacuation cycles may be needed. If the system won't hold a stable vacuum of 28"Hg after a few cycles, a leak is present and must be fixed before continuing. Once the system is holding a vacuum, the charge is then added. To compensate for the variance in capacity, the system will require slightly less refrigerant to remove the proper amount of heat. The easiest way to do this is by using low side pressure to determine proper charge level. Refrigerant should be added to the system from the LOW SIDE ONLY while the air conditioning is engaged and the compressor powered. Start out by adding one pound of refrigerant to the system, then slowly add charge until the low side pressure is between 32psig and 35psig while running under load (preferably a cabin temp of 85 degrees or so). To really do it right, the replacement hoses are needed because HFC-134a molecules are smaller than molecules of CFC-12, and the OEM hoses are actually too porous to contain 134a. If original hoses are used, the system will work fine, but slowely leak refrigerant necessitating frequent top-offs. As said earlier, an adjustable low pressure cut-off switche can be used to allow the system more efficient operation after the conversion, and should be set at 27psig. 134a works more than sufficiently well when the A/C system is properly converted, but if shortcuts are taken the results may be disappointing; A system contaminated with air, moisture, mixed refrigerants will never work as it should. The process is pretty simple as long as one has access to the proper equipment. Also, it goes without saying that if the car's cooling system is borderline, don't bother with the A/C until everything is working as it should.
  10. I was out there with my Challenger in the Young Guns RWD class....glad to see a decent number of SQ's make it out
  11. All depends on who wants it, and how badly. If you've still got it in a few months, I'd probably offer $250 if it is in good shape. That seems to be the going rate for a 2.4 wideblock minus the head at salvage yards.
  12. the 83-84 Digi-dash is much easier to install from what I've read. They use analog gauges for Oil Pressure, Coolant Temp, Battery (although it's an ampmeter), and Fuel Level, while the tach and speedometer are digital. The speedometer readout tops out at 85 though, and who'd want that?
  13. Yep, It's on the bottom of the tank, but requires a special square bit to take it off.
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