survyor22

If i had the time I would order an aluminum radiator but because the SMG pump went out on my other car, I need the conquest back run asap. Its at the radiator shop right now getting the brackets and fan switches transferred over. I noticed the new radiator is 2 row and the old one was 3 rows. I hope that won't lead to an cooling issues.

I just ordered a brand new radiator form Advanced Auto. I received a Carquest radiator that was close to matching but its missing the upper fan support bracket and the 2 lower temperature/fan switch bungs. I looked on Ebay and all of the images on Ebay match the one I received. What am I doing wrong here? Why are all these radiators been made incorrectly? I can't be the only person that has run into this. I'm afraid to order anything but a racing radiator thinking that I may get the incorrect one again. Take a look: http://www.ebay.com/...adiator&_sop=16 Thanks, Dennis

Still looking for a 89 OEM boot.

The one on the top came off of my 1989. Its damaged. What gets me is that the turbo end is actually larger on the bottom one. Its not like they had different size turbos that I know of.

So I ordered a used replacement for my damaged 89 OEM boot and the one I received doesn't match. My turbo inlet is 1/4 smaller and there are two extra nipples on mine. What year intakes work for a 89? What year is this one? Thanks, Dennis http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g28/survyor2/D95D6D52-3608-4988-9342-C6DEDAFA80B2.jpg

Thanks for the response. I'll just order the fusible link set and clean up the connectors the best that I can. The E-brake is not working. That's probably it. I will inspect this weekend.

1. I'm starting to have some electrical issues. My headlights won't go down now. The fog lights keep blowing fuses. The washer bottle pump stopped working. I did blow a fusible link a few weeks ago but I was able to repair it on the side of the road with a spade connector. The whole fusible link connector is highly suspect. I cant tell the color of the links, the connectors are corroded, the plastic is brittle. I'm afraid if I replace the individual link wires, the rest will fall apart. I don't even want to touch it at this point. I'm not saying all my issues are fusible link related but I need this replaced. I know I can buy the links individually but were can I buy the whole harness: http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/Catalog%201/CAT-92.jpg 2. I'm getting a loud vibration/rubbing coming from the rear when I drive in reverse. No issues driving forward. Its definitely drivetrain related. I'll jack up the rear this weekend and check it out but any ideas? Thanks, Dennis 89 TSI Fuji Blue

Mine ripped when changing the air filter. Need the accordian rubber intake tract from the turbo to filter (one piece). Need something that the rubber isn't dried out or cracking. Thanks, Dennis 89 TSI

The rear reservoir appears to be in good shape. The "WASH" light disappears when the front reservoir is unplugged. I suspect the poor condition of the front reservoir. It has repairs from previous cracks.

The pump and sensor are on the same harness plug so I need a good used bottle with the sensor and pump

The sensor went out on my washer bottle. I need a the front washer bottle that goes under the battery tray. Thanks, Dennis 1989 Conquest TSI

Cruise control hasn't worked on my 89 conquest since I have owned it. The control stick does light up to activate. I have recently replaced the actuator under the hood. The previous owner replaced the cruise computer in the trunk and prehaps I should replace it again from a parts car to be sure. What else should I check? My car starts without pressing the clutch or brake. Is this normal? If its not normal this could be the problem as the cruise system thinks the brake or clutch is in. Thanks, Dennis

As a follow up. I followed the FAQ for reseting the ICS and TPS. I checked ignition timing. Everything checked fine. The problem was with one of the new injectors, I removed them and reinstalled them and it runs fine.

Thanks. I did see that in the FAQ. Just checking if my symptoms matched that diagnoses.

My 1989 Conquest, almost all stock (no egr), originally started, idled and drove fine with the exception of a bad secondary injector. 3k rpm+ wasn't happening. The car was at the shop getting new injectors and a rebuilt throttle body. The throttle body had some leaks. I have the car back now and it pulls pretty good up to 6krpm. The new problem is the idle: Cold starts fine but within seconds, the idle drops as low as possible, almost dies. Anything below 3k rpm is rough and has no accelleration. Things do get better at normal operating temperture but not great. If I'm cruising at 70mph, I press the clutch and it continues to idle at 2000rpm for a few seconds, drops to 1500 rpm for a few seconds, then keeps dropping. It will do this everytime, stop signs, etc. I explained this to the shop and they replaced the ecu temp sensor, which did not help. They verified the TPS readings were correct. Is this an Idle control valve issue? Thanks, Dennis