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I know nothing about cars... is this too much to handle myself?


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#21 SA22C

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Posted 27 February 2018 - 08:26 PM

 croquest87, on 27 February 2018 - 05:07 PM, said:

These are low impedence injectors and have resistors for each injector  little box in between air box/and pass side headlight   look up factory spec on what the voltage should be  it may vary  as full voltage is aplied to open and reduced after or something stupid like that peak and hold maybe? Anyone?

In my 87 there was only one resistor for both injectors. Did they change this for different  years?





#22 croquest87

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Posted 27 February 2018 - 10:04 PM

How is your timing at idle? Should be 10 deg
Fuel pressure? You need to put some kind of fuel pressure gage on that thing you can tap one in on the back of your top hat there is a set screw pull it out and tap w npt to fit a pressure gage  very important to establish pressure should be around 38 psi and not drop when you rev hard  if it does? tank/filters/fpr all need to be in good shape and clean   not steering you in doing all this work  those are basics that need to be known on a 30 year old car  you may be chasing a wrong issue

As for resistor pack   you will see one white  wire w full 12 volts feeding resistors  and two black wires going out to each injector  they dont go bad often.
I would start fresh w basic engine diagnosis disregard all that the shop said
Compression  check
Fuel pressure check
Spark check
Timing check
And go from there hope this helps

Edited by croquest87, 27 February 2018 - 10:23 PM.


#23 hawkandhorn

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 03:01 PM

Frankly i'm trying to tackle the issues 1 at a time...

Currently why do both injector clips not meter at 12v with the battery on??? Are they suppose to ??

From my understanding the 2 wires going into each individual clip is 1 positive side for power, and 1 ground side to control the spray from the ECU... is this correct?

#24 croquest87

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 06:34 PM

Full voltage is aplied to open them up and is reduced down for the remaining time it is open   that's how low z or low impedence injectors work

I will check my perfectly running car and tell you my read out give me on hr or so

Edited by croquest87, 28 February 2018 - 06:47 PM.


#25 croquest87

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 07:26 PM

Full 12.3 volts on each injector w the key on on my car.    You need to check at the 2 black wires on resistor w the key on to see what you have there should be 12 volts. If 12 volts are there than your problem is between the resistor and injectors  if not test the white wire that feeds the resistor if 12 volts there than your resistor is shot  if not? Trace the white wire back to where it goes and test there and so on till you get 12 volts

Edited by croquest87, 28 February 2018 - 08:00 PM.


#26 Fuze

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Posted 04 March 2018 - 11:28 AM

Welcome to the world of G54BT troubleshooting! It's always like this. I will not miss it.

Insta = @battlemagnet

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#27 Indiana

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Posted 10 March 2018 - 11:56 AM

The ignition switch passes the same voltage your battery has through to both injector connectors via those fuse links near your battery.  The links power everything.  That big red wire off the + post of your battery just goes down to the starter motor.  The - wire should go to the frame of the car, the engine block, a smaller wire to the intake manifold for sensor grounding and there was even one of the back of the car going to the muffler.  Rotten wires and crusty connections make for a poor running car.

There's no good injectors unless you have them cleaned and you can't clean them yourself.

When you get this taken care of then there's how the fuel is ignited.   NGK supplied the engine with a foul resistant spark plug you need to have, the part # is 7031.  Air fuel ratio is all over the place with a stock fuel system and many times worse with a BOV.  Spark plug wires need to not cross over each other, be separated and not touch the engine.  The factory supplied spacers and stand offs to accomplish this.  

Making that engine run while driving means a little more,  The ECU needs the sensor input from the air flow sensor and the rpm signal from the separate mechanical distributor.  The advance plate needs to move easily and the vacuum advance/boost retard unit can't leak.  The CTS isn't necessary it acts mostly like a choke on a carburetor causing more fuel when the motor is cold.  The idle motor isn't necessary either.  When you mash the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there, in the end when the air flow sensor input is out of range all you end up with is the rpm signal.  

87s didn't have great ignitors.  They moved to a non resin encased board to a larger circuit board in a tin can the year after.  If you have strange issues after you correct everything else that may be at fault.  Just look for an 88/89 ignitior and see if you can get th connector for it or just cut the wires and direct wire it to your harness because it comes with a short pigtail..  Its not like you have to be able to unplug it anyway so it doesn't matter if you use its connector.  

OEM PVC valves won't leak boost pressure from the intake manifold into the crankcase but a stock separator system can't handle even high rpms with a stock turbo.  A working closed separator system will benefit your engine.  

There's lots more

#28 croquest87

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Posted 10 March 2018 - 12:18 PM

I have a nice set of trilogy injectors that l used for 2 months before l switched to mpi this winter will sell if that's what's needed let me know?

#29 gst4g64

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Posted 24 March 2018 - 11:16 AM

I must admit, I didn't read everything here.  If the shop is telling you the Secondary injector only works when they switch the pigtails, my guess is they are testing it at idle....  That injector isn't even supposed to be doing anything at idle.




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