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87 Knockbox to GM HEI


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#21 SA22C

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 09:36 AM

View Postscott87star, on 08 June 2018 - 09:17 AM, said:

Yes?  I'm not sure what you want, Speedy covered everything you need to know.  I have done this to at least two cars, FIP did it this way at first, then switched to using the caravan module, they literally bolted the 4 pin module to the fender liner and just ran the wires to that.

I think the confusion on wire color comes from using the 88-89 knock boxes, there are a few color differences from one side of the connector to the other whereas the 87 and earlier knock boxes have no wires on the knock box side.  So for an 87 and earlier you would cut the connector off the wire loom and look for the wires you need.  The white and black from the distributor are VR+, - and are bundled together with a shield (braided outer metal), you may have to unwrap the harness a bit to see everything.  The single white wire with shield is the knock sensor in, you don't need that.  There will be a single black wire that goes to sensor ground, you don't need that.  The red wire is switched 12 volts, you need that.  The yellow wire/black stripe and brown wires are not needed which just leaves the blue wire/white stripe that goes to the negative terminal of the coil.  Also note that if you unwrap the harness a bit that blue wire/white stripe is "t"'d with a white wire, you need to leave that there as the white wire supplies rpm input to the ECU.  For an 88-89 the wire colors coming to the knock box plug that you need are the same, just be aware that if you set up the 4 pin inside the box like the pictures above you need to folllow the wires through the plug to see if they change color.

I ask for your expertise because you were one that was sure it worked. The convoluted information about JA starion distributors working and our US versions not working only added to my confusion. Im scared ****less to fry something trying this on my own.





#22 speedyquest

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 09:44 AM

View PostSA22C, on 08 June 2018 - 09:36 AM, said:

I ask for your expertise because you were one that was sure it worked. The convoluted information about JA starion distributors working and our US versions not working only added to my confusion. Im scared ****less to fry something trying this on my own.

If you aren't confident then definitely don't do it. You can ask specific questions but you shouldn't be asking people to "talk you into it". I don't mean that literally but it kinda seems like your looking for someone to tell you its ok. If you don't understand the problem and the possible solution you plan on implementing you shouldn't do it.

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#23 SA22C

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 10:09 AM

View Postspeedyquest, on 08 June 2018 - 09:44 AM, said:

If you aren't confident then definitely don't do it. You can ask specific questions but you shouldn't be asking people to "talk you into it". I don't mean that literally but it kinda seems like your looking for someone to tell you its ok. If you don't understand the problem and the possible solution you plan on implementing you shouldn't do it.
I dont have the ability to test a distributors ability to send the HEI module the correct signal it needs. I was confident until the talk about "5 different" versions of distributors came in to play. I get what youre saying though... I just thought a little more input from someone well versed with the matter would help.

Edited by SA22C, 08 June 2018 - 10:10 AM.


#24 scott87star

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 01:09 PM

There may technically be five versions of distributor but the pickups are all the same, the versions differ by springs and weights to give different advance to intercooled, non-intercooled and other minor requirements.
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#25 SA22C

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 01:53 PM

View Postscott87star, on 08 June 2018 - 01:09 PM, said:

There may technically be five versions of distributor but the pickups are all the same, the versions differ by springs and weights to give different advance to intercooled, non-intercooled and other minor requirements.

Awesome. Thank you so much for the info. I really appreciate the help.

Thank you too, Speedy.

#26 jinx

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Posted 10 June 2018 - 08:14 PM

better to be safe... nothin wrong with that. So hookup iisss that simple
Either way, I bought a 4 pin months ago and was gonna wire it up (with everything properly grounded) and bench test it

#27 mbruneaux

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Posted 13 July 2018 - 09:58 AM

Below is my notes on this modification when my igniter retired, I cut and pasted posts from other threads.  There is no one more hesitant to modify electrical systems than me because I usually FUBAR what I am trying to fix.  I considered the MSD box but didn't want to spend $200 to diagnose a bad Igniter so I spent the $22 on the autozone 4 Pin HEI module.  I unplugged my igniter and installed the Module and it fired right up. I haven't driven much on it but it works.

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#28 watugot369

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Posted 16 July 2018 - 02:01 AM

Hey guys, this is my first time posting a description, or anything really. I just want to clarify this wiring situation, since I just bought an hei module.

I looked at the 88 wiring diagram and labeled the wires.

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Looking from the face of the harness in the engine bay, I figured out that the proper wires that are needed are located in pins 4(Blue/WhiteStripe), 5(Black), 6(Red), and 8(White).

Since some of the colors on the harness going into the 88/89 knock box are different, I decided to hack it off the knock box board completely and follow the wires. This is what I came up with:

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The Blue/WhiteStripe and Red wires stayed the same while the Black wire changed to White and White Wire changed to Yellow. Also, the Black wire in the picture is a shielded cable. It would be a good idea to ground it.

Hope this helps anybody who wants to use an hei module in a 88/89 knock box and retain the factory look.

Edited by watugot369, 16 July 2018 - 02:17 AM.


#29 watugot369

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Posted 16 July 2018 - 03:01 AM

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I've yet to buy connectors, but this is how it should be wired up




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