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SFBMX88 LS2 Flatty build

s13 rack smog legal flatty 5 lug shortened struts 6 speed auto to manual LS swap t-56

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#141 SFBMX88

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Posted 14 June 2019 - 01:57 AM

May 2019 C

More fan shroud building.  Jigsaws are great too!

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I ended up overlapping the fan mount holes with the edges of the radiator core to hold the fan shroud assembly to the radiator.  I borrowed a friends rivnut tool to install threaded rivets into the shroud for the rest of the fan mounts.

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1/2" wide aluminum C channel was used to space the shroud away from the core.  Ill try to TIG weld these together when I eventually learn how.

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Drilled a hole in the bumper support for an M8x1.5 rivnut too.  The factory hood release bracing will be modified to use this mounting hole.

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Used some CAD(Cardboard Aided Design) to make the lower radiator isolator templates.  Ordered a sheet of neoprene rubber to cut up...

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Initial diagram for cooling system plumbing.

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Keyser surge tank blank mounting flanges got bent and drilled.

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Found some scrap steel rod in the gas station trash awhile back, so of course it goes in the car.  Cut and bent to fit with some nuts welded on.

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One mans trash, is another mans surge tank bracket!

Some June content to come.....






#142 SFBMX88

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Posted 20 June 2019 - 09:55 AM

June 2019 A

Thought I may as well post some of June progress earlier than usual.  Who remembers S&M? Got the strut bars years and years ago second hand. Im gonna have to redo the welds on them.  Ill probably build a new bar too.  Surge tank brackets are all welded in, just needs paint.

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Modified the hood latch support for radiator clearance.  Braced it to the bumper instead of the lower radiator support.

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I thought I would try one of those cooling system sacrificial anodes.  Installed in the unused 1/4" npt port in the surge tank.

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Havent used my pinch clamp tool in years. Silicone hose secured

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Couldnt find a 3/4" male barb to 1/2" npt female at Home Depot Performance, but Amazon had them through Prime!

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Getting there!

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Originally purchased this 5/8" aluminum hardline for my Accusump install way back, but never used it.  It will now serve as plumbing for the heater lines.  Used filler rod to get the general shape of what I needed, then cut/bend the hardline outside of the car.  Lots of back and forth here, maybe an hour per line.  -10 tube nuts and sleeves joined them to -10 an barb adapters.

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All silicone heater hoses done.

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Edited by SFBMX88, 20 June 2019 - 11:05 AM.


#143 SFBMX88

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Posted 20 June 2019 - 10:23 AM

June 2019 B

Cut down my Mookeeh silicone heater hoses to connect with the hardline.

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Flared all the lines with a Rigid 37 degree flare tool.  Bought this years ago and finally get to use it too. Cleaning up your cut before flaring makes all the difference!  Dont forget the tube nuts and sleeves before flaring!

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Still have some fine tuning of the bends to do, and I need to make some hold downs, but theyre in there.

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I couldnt bend a tight enough radius on the hardline here, so I bought a -10 an 90 degree female/female coupler instead.

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This is what I did for the "steam" lines back to the surge tank.  Block steam ports and radiator bleed merge at a tee, then dump into the surge tank.

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Picked up some 1/4" aluminum hardline to do it.  

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Didnt want to buy another tool, so I tried making beads with my brake line flaring kit.  Basically made a partial bubble flare and backed off.  Seemed to work well enough.

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Lines all bent.

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Ran the bleeder return through the upper radiator support.  Now I just need to find that factory cover plate I lost during the build...

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Originally planned to route the bleeder lines over the engine, but this is much cleaner.  The other line terminates at the factory non intercooled overflow bottle.  Looks like 5 feet of hose was enough to cover everything.  Just enough to reach the radiator.

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I figure its time to pick up that TIG torch.  Had to learn at some point!  The cooling system needs one pipe welded up, and its aluminum.  More on that next update though...

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#144 croquest87

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Posted 22 June 2019 - 09:33 PM

I admire your work sir! Aluminum is touchy but can be mastered to perfection.Clean aluminum real good and your filler rods also wipe w acetone. Start your puddle and move quick as you stab it and watch your puddle sink for good penetration.

Edited by croquest87, 22 June 2019 - 09:37 PM.


#145 SFBMX88

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Posted 13 July 2019 - 11:05 PM

June 2019 C

Got some TIG practice in after cutting off the ends of two 90 degree aluminum pipes.  I think I should've cut them with a band saw for a more square edge.  The pipe cutter created a taper in the cut, which made a wide gap when the pipes were joined.  This made for a more difficult weld.  Either way got some good seat time in with the torch.  Not making as many q-tips as when I started!

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Removed the factory front chassis tie downs and made the final bracing for the radiator support.  Cut out some 1/4" neoprene rubber sheet for the lower radiator bushings too.  We'll see how they hold up...

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More of that gas station scrap steel made its way into the car as upper radiator supports.  Cut an unused bushing sleeve into quarters and welded all the pieces together.  Bushed it with some old vacuum hose and shrink tube.

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He really does!

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Edited by SFBMX88, 13 July 2019 - 11:06 PM.


#146 SFBMX88

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Posted 13 July 2019 - 11:16 PM

June 2019 D

Got a pinch clamp set from amazon and went to town.

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Decided to not reuse the OEM fan connector and installed a Deutsch DTP 4 pin instead.

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Made a temporary hardline bracket for the power steering.  Should hold until I figure out what to do with them.  I didnt want to buy the off the shelf stuff...

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Easy spacers!

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Bumper mounts needed to be patched up, so I made some new supports to weld in.  Just cut them out with the band saw and hammered the 90 degree in the vise.  They get welded up in July though...

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Getting closer and closer to road worthy!

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More next month!

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Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: s13 rack, smog legal, flatty, 5 lug, shortened struts, 6 speed, auto to manual, LS swap, t-56

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