87TSiStock Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 so i want to go to the s13 sr20det 3 row radiator this summer as the current one is bad but i was confused with the whole conversation in other threads on the thermo switch. I know on the stock radiator the switch is on the bottom of the radiator and with the new one they obviously do not have those plugs. Do i need those for switching to the new style? For the fans i was thinking of just running a toggle switch with direct on/off power. If you guys could tell me a little about the thermo switch and what to do with the fans and the idea of running them that way or if i should run the switch and get a relay kit would be awesome.Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twojayzeestarion Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 this to turn fans on at desired temphttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Hayden-Fan-Switch-Thermostatic-Radiator-Probe-Adjustable-160-240-Degrees-F-Kit-/390979832456?hash=item5b0836ca88&vxp=mtrim currently running this on 3 cars with no issueshttp://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-240SX-S14-MT-SR20DET-TURBO-TWO-ROW-CORE-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-BLUE-FAN-SHROUD-/151297714313?hash=item233a0be889&vxp=mtrget a lower rad hose from a 1994 mazda b4000 4.0l engine and use it for your lower rad hose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twojayzeestarion Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 that switch grounds threw bracket, switched power in and power to fans out, stick the sensor in your rad under the upper hose, also the fans than come on that have a black power wire and blue ground, if you wire the blue wire as power and use black as ground the fans will push towards rad and thats backwards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOTTY Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 X2 for the 'probe' thermostat sensors, had great results with them and buy the 2 row , 3 row is overkill and takes up to much valuable and much needed space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 I had that fan switch on my Starion years ago. The thing ALWAYS leaked. I adjusted, twisted, reinstalled, poked, pulled prodded, cussed, finally removed the whole darned contraption and fixed my OEM sensor problem and never had another issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twojayzeestarion Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 how did it leak? no coolant goes to it, i have it on 3 cars an the fans on all of them cut on at 170,and cuts off at 150 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeph_tsi Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 Me too on the probe, dunno how it could possibly leak? I've been running mine since I bought my car, it was the first thing I did as my fans ran constant and it was really irritating. Several years and maybe 30k later still working beautifully! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87TSiStock Posted May 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 So using that probe style removes the whole idea of the toggle switches and just runs on the probe? (which i dont mind).And i see in the probe kit it says its only for one fan does that mean i have to buy two or can you splice them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeph_tsi Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 it doesn't take much to trip a relay, so as long as your fans are wired properly I'd guess it could do 2, or use 1 relay for both fans then it should definitely work. I don't know for sure though, only one fan on my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twojayzeestarion Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 on my two 2jz cars the prob i posted operates 2 12'' fans @ 14vs never had a single issue, who wants to be flipping a toggle switch on and off? once you set the dial on this device it will kick on at that temp and shut off below that point from there on out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 i sent my radiator to BC_99 he welded on mounting tabs and the 2 bungs on the bottom for fan sensors.i opted for the 3/8-NPT rather then the metric stock type bung. now my 3 row is a bolt in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 put this in your lower radiator hose or upperhttp://prosportgauge...se-adaptor.aspx if you use the stock sensor you need to run a ground wire from the little screw in pic next to sensor to a good ground. Note.Stock sensors will not fit.I believe it is 1/8 npt http://prosportgauges.com/images/products/detail/shiftlights5c.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC_99 Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 The 240 radiators are good options, but I don't get why. We have a bolt in option now for close to the same price as all of this other stuff.http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-Radiator-For-Mitsubishi-Starion-Chrysler-Dodge-Plymouth-Conquest-/181564928756?hash=item2a461cf2f4&vxp=mtr BC_99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G54Bstore Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 this helped me when I had to go through my stock fan / relay wiring because it was hacked and was made to run all the time.also some guys put the thermo sensor in the spot where the egr thermo valve is.. if you have the egr delete.its a good read which ever route you decide.http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1067&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 i posted that yesterday about the radiators back in stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 The piece IW posted looks nice. I had the "probe" that stuck in the radiator hose. It constantly seeped along the probe wire and leaked out by the radiator inlet. NOTHING I could do stopped it. Was I doing something wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Not that I know of. I had the same problem in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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