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valve stem seals


importwarrior
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On my old Ranger I hooked an air line to my compression tester and used air pressure to keep the valves seated while I changed the seals. It made me nervous. More than once the motor spun from the air pressure, and I was worried about a valve(s) dropping if I happened to tap or bump one wrong and broke that pressure seal. On my Quest I fed a length of soft cotton rope into each cylinder (as I got to each one), on compression stroke, then rotated the the motor so the piston mashed the rope against the valves. Worked like a charm. When done, moved the motor backwards just a hair, enough to unpinch and pull the rope out.
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The air pressure trick is safe depending on your compressor. Given the area of the stock valve faces at 2.72" intake and 1.96" exhaust, a 90 psi compressor will exert about 244 lbs on the intake valve and 176 lbs on the exhaust. My compressor for example puts out 175 psi. So it would exert about 476 lbs on the intake and 343 lbs on the exhaust. More than enough to keep the valves closed unless you do something really stupid.

 

But the rope trick has the added benefit of being a little accident proof as long as you put enough rope in the cylinder.

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I use the rope trick on my harley when I have to loosen the main motor nut on the primary drive. so yea ghat will work like a charm and it doesnt hurt any components in the engine.
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I've used the air method several times on several conquest, dsm's and Hondas with success. If you want little more peace of mind, just spin the motor over where the pistons are at their highest point on whatever cylinder your working on. if for any reason you lose air pressure, the valve won't go very far (happened to me once)
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Just did mine 2 weeks ago. Used a 1/2" nylon rope and fed about 4 ft into the cylinder. Crank it tight and it works great. Took me about 3 hours being conservative.
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