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Squrlsquash

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Squrlsquash last won the day on April 3 2013

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About Squrlsquash

  • Birthday 09/21/1993

Profile Information

  • Interests
    1987 Conquest TSI - under construction
  • Location
    San Diego
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    92130
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1987
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Polar White
  • Interior Color
    Dark Red
  • Status
    Restoring

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  1. Received got a big order of drill bits and have a few kits ready to go right now. But for for the next batch (FYI), the hardened steel shoulder bolts i've been using so far have gone up alot in price I am unsure if i can find a cheaper supplier or if i should move to slightly lower grade bolts I will test them out on my car, the graphite bearings should prevent the pin from wearing anyways Will keep you posted. Glad I was able to share this fix with you guys, makes our cars a bit less "jalopy-ish" and a bit more solid- haha Thanks
  2. Sent- Thanks screemin FYI temporarily out of drill bits, new batch on their way If you order a $25 kit (w/ drill bit) it will just be a few days before i can send it- and i will PM to let you know $20 kits unaffected and still ship immediately Thanks for the interest and orders
  3. On its way, Thanks Tracking number in paypal info
  4. Glad to hear it wasn't a product problem Reminder: Have several kits ready to go price includes pp fees, shipping, everything Install can be done without removing clutch hydraulics fyi- only have to screw off the clevis arm from the clutch master cylinder, as detailed in instructions
  5. Ah psu, i have a trick for pressing them in I've found channel locks to be quite helpful with this job Need a piece of metal or something with a hole just larger than 12mm to put on the inside (or outside) of the clevis arm from the clutch master cylinder So when you press in the bearing it has someplace to go (without bending the clevis arm) Still haven't decided if its easier to press in the bearings from the outside of the clevis arm in, or press from the inside and have the extra bearing easier to cut off on the outside. I will take some more install photos soon to help with install issues also, Clicking when the pedal is disengaged? What is hitting what?
  6. aknorthstar, i can check costs based on your zip just didnt want to get stuck with more shipping costs than i was anticipating maybe i should clarify that i'd just like to check the price if its going outside of the lower 48, it may be the same. Thanks for the interest and the comments
  7. http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/Mobile%20Uploads/B4B7AA79-DCD5-45D6-9C4B-E4AD6FC8671D_zpsy4ueswry.jpg I'm back and have several kits ready to go Comes with a new pin (polished, hardened steel -grade 12.9- with new washers and clevis clip) Also comes with 3 graphite finished bearings, (2 for the clutch master cylinder arm, 1 for the pedal itself) This pin WILL NOT wear out like the factory one, and these bearings can be replaced if they ever round out. Kit prices (shipped lower 48) right now: $20 for everything but the drill bit $25 with drill bit Send (AS PAYMENT) to Aaronwork4@gmail.com Please include in paypal memo: Sqc name What you're ordering Name & Address To install: Remove the pedal pin Remove pedal Mark position of lock nut (behind the clutch pedal adjustment) leave locknut in place (maybe dab with loctite to prevent movement) Unscrew the Clevis Arm (round part with rubber bushing inside that attaches Master Cylinder to the Clutch Pedal) Take Clutch Pedal and Clevis Arm to your workbench Drill new holes with 12mm OD bit and press in supplied bearings Use hacksaw or grinder to remove excess bearing that goes through the other side Test fit and Reinstall. Comments, Complaints & Tips always accepted
  8. as mentioned above, leave the crank and girdle in as it helps prevent block from warping (maybe only applies if on a stand with weight supported only from one end) spray with oil and wrap, you can get mover's plastic wrap rolls at u-haul and probably lots of other places. Or trash bags.
  9. Figuring on electric fans, put together the tep kit on my road car that cycles the fans on/off full power based on the temp switches. probably junkyard fans, read once on here that subaru fan motors fit on our fan blades? I think i'll make my own setup with a relay for each fan wired separately and a switch for each that bypasses the temp input to be able to turn them on if there's an issue. On another note, washed and began putting together my spare head and noticed that the roller rockers i bought from a member on here a while back are too wide. The roller section is wider than the factory rockers, the two rockers next to each other on each cylinder touch. Looks like more than half a mm needs to come off each rocker where they touch, (right where the pin that holds the roller is) Anyone else experience this? can post a pic if needed. Maybe i got the wrong rockers?
  10. Will decide on fan situation later on then. Junkyard and aftermarket electric fans are easy to come by, as are clutch fans from monteros. Will be on a rwd starion btw Fyi minis have mechanical fans on the crank with the radiator on the side of the motor, only difference is sideways radiator placement
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