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Turbo oil drain pipe find update 9-4-15


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I was trying to find an alternative to the oil drain issues I see.

 

After some google searches I found this.

 

http://sourceautomot...leoildrain.aspx

 

Cummins turbo flex drain pipe.

 

They come in different lengths depending on year make model.

I have seen 15, 21, 25 inch lengths.

 

The ID of the pipe is a little larger then our stock drain.

17 to 18mm.

I am planing to drain to my pan.

1301.jpg

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22 inch $70

http://www.stainless...&product_id=154

 

21 inch $49.95

http://puredieselpow...24v-trucks.html

 

12 inch $43.23

(12 Inch with bend)

http://puredieselpow...drain-tube.html

 

11 ¼ inch $54.00

http://sourceautomot...booildrain.aspx

 

length N/A

$40

https://www.dieselco...drain-tube.html

 

 

Length N/A $45.85 SKU: 3970875

http://www.enterpris...-cr-5-9l-03-up/

 

http://sourceautomotive.biz/images/products/detail/0428.jpg

 

 

Slip hose over end and clamp.

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That would have been helpful when I was modifying a stock drain to work with a GT35. Time spent cutting, bending, brazing and surfacing could have been better spent with that part. But I still like draining to the stock location. Something about all that oil splashing onto the timing chain makes me think the guides may last longer.
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^From what I understand, that's the really hot turbo oil being dumped right onto the timing components. That is part of the reason a lot,of cars don't even have the rubber sheet on the tensioner... The hot oil cooks it and makes it brittle,
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All those inside ridges might slow down the flow and give the oil a little more time to cool and change back to liquid in case it foams up. Should be fine for a return, but never use that type for a supply line imo.
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That would be a nice alternative to the drain to -an fittings I've used. They are a PITA! I eventaully had a hydraulic hose made up with the -an ends on it to connect to my drain adapter and the bung welded to the pan. IMO draining to the pan is the only option for an aftermarket turbo. The stock location does not give enough of a drop for a free flowing drain. Especially in hard cornering.
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Excellent find! I'm putting together a single turbo kit right now and want no rubber at all anywhere in the drain tract and all of the aftermarket comes with an fittings. Different engine in my case, but still good for all the same reasons, I bought a flange for the turbo, and for the engine and was going to use corrugated steel egr piping between them.
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^From what I understand, that's the really hot turbo oil being dumped right onto the timing components. That is part of the reason a lot,of cars don't even have the rubber sheet on the tensioner... The hot oil cooks it and makes it brittle,

 

I'm betting that's not much of a concern considering the rubber hose on the drain line gets exposed more and stays intact. I would bet guide failure is due to lack of maintenance, age and oil issues.

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I'm betting that's not much of a concern considering the rubber hose on the drain line gets exposed more and stays intact. I would bet guide failure is due to lack of maintenance, age and oil issues.

 

every starquest i have gotten has had a very brittle and shotty oil drain hose the ends are normally also cracked. the fact is the stock drail location is terrible. a completly vertical straight shot to the oil pan is much better

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Good topic with positives on both sides about the drain location. My experience in a general sense, is any time a change is made in respect to the factory oiling, you should do so with care, considering all options, and keep a close eye on it. In this case, you may want to pull the VC every so often to see if the guides are staying oiled well. Of course that is up for interpretation too. How well is well enough? The chain does not get much direct oil on it otherwise. Maybe some from the overflow hole in the pump, and the little block oil squirter up front there (if I remember right).

If we are concerned about the oil being too hot, then I think that is a secondary issue from another and greater problem elsewhere, like the boost is turned up too high for the efficiency range of the turbo, the timing is too retarded, clogged oil cooler, etc...

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If we are concerned about the oil being too hot, then I think that is a secondary issue from another and greater problem elsewhere, like the boost is turned up too high for the efficiency range of the turbo, the timing is too retarded, clogged oil cooler, etc...

 

Agreed. The water lines can be upgraded to maximize cooling and drop a lot of heat soak in that area.

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Should I move the initial post to the FAQ?

Well im thinking that right now its still an un answered question. When we know for sure that the oil drain doesn't need to be in the stock location then its still good here. Id like to know if this is shortening the life of the chain guides too.
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  • 3 months later...

small update...

The three different drains all fit our stock turbo bolt patterns.

The T6 has the largest opening but the hose barb i am using down sized to 3/4 inch hose.

the Cummins is by far bigger then the T3 but the flex part concerns me about draining smoothly.

i really like the Cummins drain but it seems to be very thin metal. i feel it is going to work great.

even if you get the shorter one it will be a great mod for sure.

 

i got the Cummins Turbo drain 21 inches long. i will be draining to the pan.

 

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Turbo/Turbo%20Drain/3010F6DE-05D7-4258-BB8A-38FF7345E3CB_zpsmbgv1tmy.jpg

 

 

 

the flex part is about 7/8 inch necked down part is like 3/4 inch.

 

Left to right

T3 -Cummins - T6

 

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Turbo/Turbo%20Drain/417ACB42-CA12-4565-8C0B-E3C423805C05_zpswvnbyncn.jpg

 

 

Close up of T3 to the cummins

 

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Turbo/Turbo%20Drain/B8384E8F-B2AF-4C9B-8186-71C86E156A37_zpsbigg2xac.jpg

 

 

 

Cummins compared to the T6

 

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Turbo/Turbo%20Drain/BB590B56-7710-47F0-8F58-3D135C3E9771_zpstttmtfkp.jpg

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