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hey_obie

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About hey_obie

  • Birthday 04/21/1953

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  • Location
    Baltimore, MD
  • Gender
    Male

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  • Model
    Other
  • Type
    Other
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    Other
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. I went to check the timing and it is out of wack. I found the timing mark on the crank pulley and turned it to 0 (zero) on the timing marks on the engine. When I looked at the cam sprocket, the pin hole on the sprocket is supposed to be at 12 o'clock. Well it was between 1 and 2 o'clock. And the rotor on the distributor was not at the #1 wire like it should be. It looks like the timing chain is off about 4 teeth. Would this explain why I have no compression?
  2. Thanks Indy. I am trying to figure out what is wrong with it. I did a compression test on the cylinders yesterday and got zero pressure. I must be doing something wrong. All 4 cylinders have no pressure. My pressure tester is good. I forced air into the tester with my compressor and it responded and held. I have only done a compression test a couple of times and it was always on a working engine. This engine does not run. I pulled all the plugs to make it easy on the starter and battery. I crank the engine for 10 seconds and nothing shows up. I am going to crank it for a longer period of time, but I think 10 seconds was long enough. I don't know what happens to compression if the timing chain has jumped. Looking at that angle today. The engine just doesn't sound right when I crank it. I had my buddy crank the engine while I blocked the spark plug hole with my finger. Felt no air. I thought it should push my finger off, but nothing. I dropped the oil pan thinking that something could be wrong on the bottom. It all looked fine to me. So today, I'll try to figure out if the timing chain jumped. Any guidance appreciated. I have replaced a head on my quest and I think that is where I am headed (no pun intended). But I hate to pull it if I can not prove what the problem is. Thanks
  3. I have a buddy's 88 manual in my garage. Used to run good and it started over heating because it was losing radiator fluid. Then it would not even start (which is a different problem). So I pulled it into my garage to take a look at it and find reason for the loss of radiator fluid. I drained the oil and it was very dark. I was looking for water and didn't see any. I checked in the intercooler and it was dry. The plugs looked good to me. I am not an expert, but the plugs were all the same and looked clean with a whitish/grey tint on them. So I then I did a radiator leak down test. Pumped it up to 13PSI and guess what happened. NOTHING. It stayed on 13PSI for an hour. Are there things that will eat radiator fluid only when the car is running? Heating system, turbo, head cracks expanding when car gets warm? I noticed the floor boards under the passenger side near the door are rusted pretty badly. Maybe it cold be heater related, but I would think that would show up in a leak down test. Any thoughts appreciated
  4. ucw, I guess that one is in the manual. I'll check. Thanks
  5. It could be going into the brake booster (the big ugly black thing) that the master cylinder is attached to if the new master cylinder is bad. Check under the carpet on the inside under the brake pedal. Believe it or not, I had brake fluid coming through the brake booster, into the car.
  6. I have two quests and have worked on them for 7-8 years. Never noticed the compressor was kicking in. I always thought it was the radiator sensors turning the fans on to cool the engine. Thank you Indiana for the explanation. Glad it is all normal. Will sleep like a baby tonight.
  7. The only real problem with it is that I don't want to have the compressor kick in when I am racing a Mustang or Porsche, .
  8. My account works, but the link you supplied does not exist anymore. The website is gutted
  9. The defrost light is on until the car warms up (as it should). I didn't know the a/c went on automatically under defrost. Anyway, the A/C compressor still kicks in turning the fans on even though the defrost light is off. The fans run for a very short time. About 10 seconds and then shuts off for a couple minutes. Strange. Nothing worth losing sleep over, but I don't think it is right. Something is making it kick on.
  10. It was time to replace the belts on my 89. I fired up the engine to watch things work and noticed the fans kicked on. It was 40 degrees out and I didn't think the engine was that warm. They kicked off after a minute or so. A minute or two later, they kicked on again and I noticed that the A/C compressor was kicking in. I had the cabin temperature set to 77 on Auto. The engine is not hot enough to call for the fans. For some reason, the system is calling for A/C. Any thoughts? I think the cabin sensor maybe the culprit because if I have it set to 77, the cabin temperature doesn't get there. Anyone had this problem? Thanks
  11. It looks to me like you need to connect the two brake lines together that go to the ABS contraption. I think the instructions I previously saw, was a little more elegant. They were cutting the lines out so they don't go across the entire firewall. You also have to block the vacuum line. Disconnect the electric connector and hope there are no problems. What looks a little involved is figuring out what has to be removed to get that contraption out of the car.
  12. I can not find a thread for removing the ABS. It was a popular mod and have seen it before, but can not find on a search and I looked in FAQ's and mods and other places . I remember a great thread at starquest.i-x.net, but that site looks gutted to me. It used to have some great step by step mods with pictures but it seems like a lot is missing of gone Thanks Obie
  13. I got you Indiana. Will do the flush. Thanks Thanks KTD for the details on bleeding. I still have the abs unit. I guess you are taking me to the 'Remove the ABS project' which I have always wanted to do, but never did.
  14. Perfect. I was on Rockauto looking at the rebuild kit just before I read your post and was leaning that way. That is what I'll do. Is it necessary to bleed the brakes if I remove all the air from the master cylinder before I connect everything up? Thanks again?
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