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$8 Fuel PSI test, FILTERS & more ...pics


Professor Quest
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  Looking at the 1/4 NPT tap and the "METRIC PLUG" next to the SAE plug, you can see it has perfect pitch alignment. Toyota and Mitsu use 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8 NPT pipe fittings that are not tapped as deep. It's that simple. Visit www.ENGINEQUEST.com and select the paper catalog. Then see page 25.  ;)
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Remove the factory plug with a 6mm GOOD, HARDEND ALLEN wrench. They are in there pretty hard. Don't strip it. If you need to, remove the top of the TB. Clean out the fuel. Replace the top. Apply some heat with a propane torch AROUND THE PLUG. This will make the housing expand and then the plug should come out. Turn a NEW 1/4 NPT tap in BY HAND until it gets hard to turn. Squirt some WD-40 into the hole. If you use a T-bar (pictured) you have better CONTROL. Tap about 4 complete turns, remove the tap, clean it off and go another 4 turns. Using a NEW 1/4 NPT BRASS PLUG test fit it. Continue tapping until you reach about half-way on the new plug. Blow some air threw the fuel inlet port and make sure you have cleaned all the particles out. You should ALWAYS do this BEFORE you try the new plug in the hole.
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While I was at PECO, I asked them what they had in the way of gauges that read ZERO to 100PSI that is fuel safe and one that you can READ. I also asked where the members could buy it.  He said check "U.S.Gauge".  This 2 1/2" gauge is easy to read and is only $8.46. Harbor Frieght also had one but it was smaller and only went to 60 PSI. You can also find them at other industrial suppliers. Note how the Teflon tape does NOT REACH THE TIP OF THE GAUGE NOR THE PLUG. Install the tape as if you are screwing the part INTO a fitting. In other words..........as you look at the THREADS, install the tap CLOCK-WISE.  2 complete turns.
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This is the gauge installed. On the professional gauge is a hose that has common AN fittings that can be used on the smaller gauge as well if you want to extend it threw the hood so you observe the pressure while you drive. Also note the "PINCH TOOL". You can use that to clamp off the return fuel line to see you MAXIMUM pressure your pump can make.  Your car should idle with 36-38 PSI and max out (if you pinch the return hose) at 80-90 PSI.
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FUEL FILTERS in an injected car are SERIOUS BUSNIESS. The filter on the right is from Mitsu. Notice the clamp and the alignment gates that line up BOTH HOSES CORRECTLY. MB 504732. Get this for $19.49 at one of the clubs dealers. Also order 4-MF660064 copper washers. These want to leak if you use them more than once. $4.00
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Fuel pump "test port". The connector on the LEFT (black wire with white stripe) has a cap on it. Remove the cap. It is a female spade connector. Make a jumper wire and hook it to 12 volts POSITIVE at the battery. No need to turn on the key. This will allow you to operate the pump.
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Note the retaining bracket has means to hold the filter in a particular fashion. Do you see the RED FUEL LINE...........here's an idea I was talking to Oscar about. Placing a 1/4 npt female fitting in that hose. ;) This would help out the guys that CAN'T remove the TB plug and won't COBB-UP the upper fuel line.
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A little push on the conical filter and it snaps into the FACTORY FUEL PUMP. Now there needs to be CLEARANCE AROUND this filter for it to flow fuel. FORCING it into an AFTERMARKET PUMP DON'T MAKE IT!  ::) When you pull the hose from the pump, the filter will be stuck INSIDE THE HOSE.
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This is what locates the IN-TANK filter. It is the 12mm pick-up tube. The smaller tube is the fuel return line. Notice how clean the outside of the tank looks. Notice the oxidation on the tubes! Wire wheel time. On top of the new filter you can see a "nipple". The filter has two of them. They retain the filter. They also tend to snap off when you try to remove the filter. Better to have a new one ready to replace the old one. Run bore brushes thru both steel lines. That will also give you an idea of what the long steel line that runs to the front of the car MIGHT have in it. ;)
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