'87quest Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 My car is running the stock engine and only has 70k miles but I'm starting to burn a bit of oil so I want to try a thicker oil. I just want to make sure I'm not going to hurt anything first? Thanks, Drake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 (edited) No, it wont hurt anything. You should read the FSM. http://www.starquestgarage.com Edited April 5, 2014 by ucw458 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 i run 10w40, but im starting to have cold start smoke. possibly from oil pressure, cold start im idling at 80psi, may be blowing by the oil seal in turbo. (BSE) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19cturbo Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 i run 15w40 rotella... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowquest Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 I run 5W40 Mobil1 Turbo Diesel in all of mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'87quest Posted April 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 Thanks guys, I'll give it a try. Thanks,Drake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted April 6, 2014 Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/z-rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ZRTQT-EA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malykaii Posted April 6, 2014 Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 (edited) Oil isnt the issue. Using lucas and thicker oil isnt a solution. Either the turbo is done, valve seals need changing, or the rubber seal under the jet valves or jet valve eliminators are done. I run 15w50 on my fresh build and it smoked. Finally swappedturbos last week and am all clear. Personally Id be running 10w40 regardless of oil leaks or not. Is this the original head from 20plus years ago? If so, I'd say do the valves seals and jet seals. $5 on rock auto and a Saturday of time. $20 with a fresh valve cover gasket instaled. Edited April 6, 2014 by Malykaii Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'87quest Posted April 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 Thanks for the info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turboat Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 I run 5w40 Rotella T6 in everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 I run a quality motor oil in mine. Seems to work pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carguygibby Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Whatever you do, don't mix different grades! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 I've been using Castrol GTX 10W-40 in the Late Fall, Winter, and Early Spring. I switch over to Castrol GTX 20W-50 during the Late Spring, Summer, and Early Fall. Been doing this since 20W-50 went on the market back when Christ was a kid. The reason that I use 20W-50 in the warm/hot months is that it has a higher coking/flash temperature than the 10W--40 which gives me warm fuzzies about minimizing any coking of the engine oil in the turbo bearing oil chamber. Seems to work cuz I get about 180 to 200K miles of life out of the 2 turbo's that I've rebuilt/replaced in the past 470K miles on the Old Broad. Got about 100K on the turbo in her now. I also religiously change the engine oil & filter every 2000 to 2500 miles. Got about 470K miles on the Old Broads virgin short block including the original factory installed oil pump. But the BS's are eliminated and I'm on my 5th timing chain. Engine oil pressure is still like the day I picked her up new at the Mitsu Dealership back in '88. But that's just me. Another thing I have found over the years is: if you have a slightly weeping injector, which thins the engine oil over time, you'll eventually get blue smoke out of the tail pipe only on engine start up. Smell your oil on the engine dip stick to find out if it smells from gas. For What It's Worth. KEN PS - Over the years, this has to be, at least, the 2000th post about what engine oil to use in our Starquests. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malykaii Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 PS - Over the years, this has to be, at least, the 2000th post about what engine oil to use in our Starquests ... well ay least this time he was asking a more specific question regarding wether thicker oil stops leaks, which isnt the case. Otherwise, yes, like have seen hundreds of posts, yet not a single used oil analysis. So overkill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'87quest Posted April 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 Thanks again for the info guys. Sorry didn't mean to repeat anything, ken, still pretty new on here. Thanks for all the responses though. Drake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 PS - Over the years, this has to be, at least, the 2000th post about what engine oil to use in our Starquests ... well ay least this time he was asking a more specific question regarding wether thicker oil stops leaks, which isnt the case. Otherwise, yes, like have seen hundreds of posts, yet not a single used oil analysis. So overkill. The below link is to one of the best combustion engine oil webistes on the web. You will get over loaded with information on the various types of engine oil, their applications and the does & don'ts, including the interpretation of the results of a 4 cycle combustion engine used engine oil analysis. There is a wealth of unbiased engine oil knowledge there. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ This is for the more recent Starquesters. Malykaii you are right - less viscous oil does NOT stop engine oil gaskets & seals leakage/weepage. However it does have "somewhat" of an effect on oil burning due to worn out piston rings. But as stated in the OP he only has 70K miles on his Lady's engine. I recommend that '87quest: 1) Pulls the jet valves and gets & installs a set of jet valve eliminators from DAD. 2) Takes a set of hot and cold compression pressure readings to see if the piston rings are worn out due to past owner's neglect of the engine oil and/or engine over heating. 3) If the problem still persists - then rebuild the turbo For What It's Worth. KEN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionbull Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 I found this interestinghttp://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=35836 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 I found this interestinghttp://speedtalk.com...php?f=1&t=35836i also found that interesting lol, i tend to run rotella but have run quaker state defy in the past, i may go back since it shows far better protection Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turboat Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 True answer, no one on the site can tell you how the oil is doing in your motor until you get an oil break down report of the used oil.http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Have you run a set of hot & cold compression pressures yet? For What It's Worth. KEN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'87quest Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 I've been running 10w40 for a few weeks now and no more smoke! Thanks again for so much input guys.. Drake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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