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What Cam options do we have now


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#1 Jonathan

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Posted 11 March 2020 - 11:29 AM

Looking to get some information on getting a CAM in my car, but what options do we have now?

I see Schneider has 264 CAM for RPM 2000-6000. My car will only be used around town and maybe a canyon run from time to time.

Also, should I be looking for Hydronic follower or Hydraulic roller follower? My head is all stock.

Thoughts?

Jonathan
Jonathan





#2 scott87star

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Posted 11 March 2020 - 02:55 PM

You can switch to the 1.6 ratio hydraulic roller, official mistubishi part, then beg someone to sell you one of Tim C's old cams (no longer offered) or go with a Schneider regrind which have a marginal quality control record.  The aussie magna came with a factory roller cam, I run it in my flatty but you need the 1.55 ratio roller rockers as the 1.6 pushes the valves off the seat slightly.  I run the 1.6 ratio roller rockers and a Tim C cam on my MPI car, both roller cam motors I have run much smoother than the factory slipper cam.

The short answer is, not many options.  You don't see any changes anyway unless you run a bigger turbine on the turbo, the restriction there masks any changes to the cam.  Watch the "every cam works" video in the post below.
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#3 kev

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Posted 12 March 2020 - 07:06 AM

TEP's 274 duration cam is still available, last I heard.  

Schneider cams is there but there have been some documented quality issues on here.  Mechanical or Hydraulic slipper only.  They don't have a roller option, regardless of what they tell you.  

RPW in the AUS is available.  They custom ground a magna roller blank to your specs and need the magna roller rockers (which are also available in the states too).  But RPW cams cost up to $1K

Tim C.'s cams:  The mechanical and hydraulic slipper grinds are excellent.  Don't go with a roller grind.

If you can find a factory Magna cam/roller rockers, it is a drop in...but it pretty much is the same lift/duration/etc. as our factory cams.  

FunkyPhil was custom grinding hydraulic slipper cams a few years back but I don't know if he still is.  



In my opinion...keep the factory cam and save the money to invest in MPI.

#4 speedyquest

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Posted 12 March 2020 - 01:41 PM

Phil is still doing cams. I ordered one from him not long ago and should be receiving mine here very soon.

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#5 psu_Crash

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Posted 12 March 2020 - 03:06 PM

I have one of Tim C's Monsta Banshee cams here that I setup on a test head but never ran. The shims make me nervous..
Also have a TRUE Schneider 284-H, a 284-RH and an RPW Roller Cam. The RPW cam ran GREAT! until it ate my valves ... Although i attribute that to float. I plan to get that back in my engine at some point now that I have beehive springs.
I should probably sell a couple of these since they are just laying around wrapped up in a drawer with desiccant for years now lol
Not that any of this helps the OP, just pointing out there are options still around that people have hoarded over the years ;)
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#6 kev

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Posted 13 March 2020 - 07:38 AM

It's not really the shims that are the issue, it's the camshaft itself.  Any factory SQ camshaft that is reground to be used as a 'roller' is incorrect.   The Mitsubishi roller rockers (regardless if they are the caravan rollers or the magna rollers) contact the cam at a different position then the factory slipper rockers.  So this puts your lobes at the wrong location.  i.e. your valves are opening up at the wrong time.    This all documented in threads within this same cam forum.

#7 psu_Crash

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Posted 13 March 2020 - 07:45 AM

View Postkev, on 13 March 2020 - 07:38 AM, said:

It's not really the shims that are the issue, it's the camshaft itself.  Any factory SQ camshaft that is reground to be used as a 'roller' is incorrect.   The Mitsubishi roller rockers (regardless if they are the caravan rollers or the magna rollers) contact the cam at a different position then the factory slipper rockers.  So this puts your lobes at the wrong location.  i.e. your valves are opening up at the wrong time.    This all documented in threads within this same cam forum.

I've read through those cam threads 100 times or more! lol The RPW cam I have ran awesome with the magna rollers. If I would have run better springs at the time it would still be in there. Now I have to bring clearance in the head I'm running for the lobes. Apparently the aussie spec heads (and AMC Marnel I'm told) have more clearance there than the M8 I'm currently using.
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#8 Funky Phil

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Posted 29 March 2020 - 12:04 PM

View Postkev, on 13 March 2020 - 07:38 AM, said:

It's not really the shims that are the issue, it's the camshaft itself.  Any factory SQ camshaft that is reground to be used as a 'roller' is incorrect.   The Mitsubishi roller rockers (regardless if they are the caravan rollers or the magna rollers) contact the cam at a different position then the factory slipper rockers.  So this puts your lobes at the wrong location.  i.e. your valves are opening up at the wrong time.    This all documented in threads within this same cam forum.

The idea behind degreeing a cam is to put the lobes in a more optimal location for efficiency.
A cam is round, it all strikes the rocker.
Idea behind a custom cam is to get better performing lobes on which requires the centerlines to be moved.
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#9 Funky Phil

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Posted 29 March 2020 - 12:08 PM

View Postspeedyquest, on 12 March 2020 - 01:41 PM, said:

Phil is still doing cams. I ordered one from him not long ago and should be receiving mine here very soon.

Allen, Im far from what I would consider having a cam for everyone to benefit from. But you definitely have helped us edge a little closer. Hahaha

My plan is still to develop a good hydraulic roller utilizing the 1.6 caravans. But it takes a lot of cash and tribulation hahahaha
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#10 SSG_CARTER

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Posted 11 June 2020 - 12:17 PM

How much cash? Iím interested in a Funkyphil Cam.

#11 Tim_C.

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Posted 11 June 2020 - 11:17 PM

My roller cams that I used to sell were limited due to it being ground from a stock cam. Still, the rollers had very good results reported by many people including myself. I ran one for 30K miles with shims and no problems. The shims were not required but just the poor man's way to install the cam. It doesn't take much to install it properly without shims, but most people didn't want to remove the head and set it up properly.  I only removed that cam because it was a high RPM cam in an automatic car that really needed a hi-torque cam. So, yes it isn't perfect, but results were satisfactory in the large majority of sales I made. I had about 3 reports of problems and 2 of those were the same cam that I tried to get returned to me, but people kept selling it to someone else. LoL!

Really, the best way is to weld metal on the stock cam to have more to work with, or start with a blank billet. Both options are very expensive so your grind design needs to be theoretically perfect before you take it to a grinder. And then, they better be a good one like I had because most grinders are a bit sloppy and cut corners they should not be cutting so to speak.

Then you have a room issue on the head. A much larger base, and it will hit the head valley much over .480 lift. I'm still running a Schneider 284 Roller Hydraulic with dual coil springs on my '87. I don't drive it much, but it still runs like a bat out of you know where. Revs strong to 7K+ RPM on a TBI set-up.
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