Jump to content



1350 U-joint yoke adapter for stock diff


  • Please log in to reply
5 replies to this topic

#1 Chad

Chad

    noob

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 9,094 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lincoln City Oregon
  • Interests:Starquest Fanatic
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 30 December 2016 - 12:30 AM

Made of a steel Dana/Spicer tube yoke to allow use of common indestructible 1350 U-joints, while retaining the otherwise very robust well built stock rear differential.  Ideal for transmission swaps, or engine/transmission swaps.  Pictured next to stock yoke for size comparison.  If you are unfamiliar, 1350's are very common at any drive line shop so getting your drive line made will now be very easy, and good for over 1000 HP.

It also has 2  @ 3/8" diameter 8-18 stainless shear dowels welded on for added safety.  This takes the shear load off the bolts so all the bolts need to do is provide clamping force.  Uses stock driveshaft bolts, which are a high quality bolt.  This doweling process requires using core differential flanges, which I have a few of in stock to help with turn around time.

I could also make them for the smaller 1310's and 1330's, but for now I'm just using 1350's.  I'll be making 9 of these.  They are $300 each, with your core flange provided in advance, or on an exchange basis.

I will also be making these in Aluminum after the steel ones are done.  The aluminum ones are far lighter, but I also prefer to see daily driven cars that anticipate high mileage to use these steel ones due to fatigue properties of aluminum.  The aluminum are stronger, but will fatigue with high stress cycle rates.  Same reason you only find aluminum rods in race engines.  They are lighter and stronger, but don't last as long.

Attached Files







#2 Chad

Chad

    noob

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 9,094 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lincoln City Oregon
  • Interests:Starquest Fanatic
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 01 January 2017 - 12:24 PM

I have 2 steel yokes complete and ready to ship.

I also have 2 billet aluminum yokes that were commissioned by a friend that had one of my T56 kits.  $500 each, pics below.

Attached Files



#3 Mach 5

Mach 5

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 460 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Islip, NY
  • Model:Starion

Posted 03 January 2017 - 03:00 PM

I think for me the steel is a better option. Long Island roads are terrible harsh on suspension and drivetrain. I will let you know when I am ready.

Thank You!
-Jarek
Owner and Founder of Triple R Motorsports- Jarek-
-Rides-
-1987 Starion -Midnight Star - NITTO RB28/ Z33 trans/ gtx3582r build in progress
http://www.starquest...howtopic=152434
-1989 Chrysler Conquest-Track Beast Mode gtx3071r TBI 365hp 407tq @20psi- RIP
http://www.starquest...ic=151885&st=40
-1989 Pontiac Grand Prix Turbo SE- 3.1 gt4088r getrag284 Tilton twin disc
-1991 Toyota Hilux Pickup ext 3.0 WONTONPU 121hp
-1990 McLaren Turbo Grand Prix sold...
-1985 AE86 20v.. 171hp@ 8200rpm RIP

#4 creakyjoints

creakyjoints

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,894 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Seattle
  • Model:Starion

Posted 04 January 2017 - 02:21 AM

500? Wow.
the dude in the honda said, i thought you said your car was slow, my response was.. well you said yours was fast so i guess we both lied.. haha

#5 IntercooledFlatty

IntercooledFlatty

    Get Sum

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,244 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Schwetty BallZ Louisiana
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 31 October 2017 - 09:31 AM

Chad do you still do these in steel ?
Posted Image
          MOPAR POWERED

#6 Chad

Chad

    noob

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 9,094 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lincoln City Oregon
  • Interests:Starquest Fanatic
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 01 November 2017 - 10:25 AM

Yes.  I don't have any that are completed, but I have all the material in stock.

The aluminum ones price has been reduced to $350.




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users