Jump to content



Clutch Pedal Rebuild with Hyundai Parts


  • Please log in to reply
3 replies to this topic

#1 obsolete

obsolete

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 401 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Minnesota
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 25 March 2020 - 01:54 AM

This is part 2 of my Better Living Through Raiding the Hyundai Parts Bin series. Part 1 was the Hyundai Sonata Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade, which is a cheap alternative master cylinder with a solid clevis to eliminate the soft rubber isolator in the Mitsubishi clevis.

So, in addition to the rubber isolator, the other things that rob clutch disengagement are the hole in the clutch pedal wearing oval-shaped, and also wear on the clevis pin. Lots of people have run into this problem before and come up with various solutions. The basic idea is to drill the hole out and insert a bushing to get it back down to the size it should be, 10mm. I am more or less copying what kev did, but since the Mitsubishi clevis pin is discontinued, I am using the Hyundai OEM clevis pin, which is the same diameter, and also throwing a couple other Hyundai parts in while I'm at it.

One tip that might help anyone removing the whole pedal assembly for the first time--if you're wondering why it's not coming out, you need to remove the upper nut on the clutch master cylinder! I think it's also possible to just remove the pedal and leave the bracket in the car, but I found it easier to just remove the whole thing.

No point in showing the oval-shaped hole in the clutch pedal, plenty of people have posted pictures of that already, or if you haven't done this mod yet, just look at yours! Here's what my pedal looked like after I drilled it out:
Posted Image

I used a step bit from Harbor Freight; the 2nd-largest size is 15/32". If you're using a hand drill, I recommend using a step bit like this, because it's easier to keep it to one side of the hole, so you don't end up drilling a new, larger hole at the center of the worn oval instead of where it was supposed to be originally. The next step on the bit also leaves a nice chamfer on the hole to make the bushing go in easy. The steps on my bit weren't quite deep enough, so I had to drill from both sides, no big deal. Excuse the messy workbench, too many projects going on at once...

This is the bushing I am using. It's a generic steel-backed, teflon-lined bushing from eBay. It has a 10mm ID and a 12mm OD, and is copper plated for some reason. Pretty much just a cheap Chinese version of the bushing from McMaster that kev used:
Posted Image

I just balanced the pedal on a deep socket on the workbench and knocked the bushing in with a small hammer. The 15/32" (11.9mm) drill size makes the 12mm bushing a nice press fit:
Posted Image

I then dremeled and filed the extra width off the bushing:
Posted Image

Here's how badly my old pin was worn:
Posted Image

Here's the new Hyundai clevis pin next to the old Mitsubishi pin. The Hyundai part number is 58581-11000 and it costs $1.39. The Mitsubishi pin has a bunch of paint on it because I used it to keep paint out of the bushing while painting the pedal. The Hyundai pin is slightly longer than the Mitsubishi pin, but that doesn't matter:
Posted Image

Here's another part on my pedal that was worn; the plastic button for the clutch switch/pedal stop. Mine was mashed down, cracked, and about to fall apart:
Posted Image

There's a Hyundai replacement part for that, too. It's 32876-25000 and costs $0.98:
Posted Image

It's slightly larger than the Mitsubishi part, but it fits and works great:
Posted Image

Here's my pedal assembled on the bench after I finished the rebuild. I cleaned and greased all the pivot points for the pedal and spring, but waited to grease the clevis pin until it was time to install the pedal in the car:
Posted Image

Close-up of the new parts:
Posted Image

Here's a shot of all the parts in the car. Trying to bend that cotter pin is annoying, especially once everything is all greasy! I used two pairs of pliers; one to hold the eyelet of the cotter pin while I used the other to get the halves of the pin separated, then I used both pairs of pliers on the ends of the pin halves to finish bending them around:
Posted Image

One more thing I wish I had ordered, but didn't--the foam rubber gasket that goes between the clutch master and the firewall. The Hyundai part number for this is 41651-36000 and it costs $1.22. I didn't want to wait for another parts order, so I just used a thin film of RTV instead of the gasket.

Final parts list:
  • Bushing, eBay 10-pack $8.13 shipped
  • Clevis pin, Hyundai part 58581-11000 $1.39
  • Stopper, Hyundai part 32876-25000 $0.98
  • Gasket, Hyundai part 41651-36000 $1.22
If you also want to buy the cotter pin from Hyundai, it's part 14300-85226 and costs $0.33. I am just using a generic pin from an assortment, 3/32"x1".

I bought Hyundai parts from HyundaiPartsDeal.com and HyundaiOEMParts.com. I had a good experience with both; HyundaiPartsDeal has a nicer site with the factory diagrams which makes it easier to find the parts you need. HyundaiOEMParts had more reasonable shipping costs and also shipped faster.

Edited by obsolete, 29 March 2020 - 11:28 PM.

Buy the ticket, take the ride.





#2 randy

randy

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,115 posts
  • Interests:Starquests forever!
  • Model:Other

Posted 25 March 2020 - 01:54 PM

Some good info on the rebuild and part numbers

#3 kev

kev

    Moderator

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 5,065 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:PA
  • Model:Other

Posted 26 March 2020 - 12:57 PM

Incredible job!   Out of all of the talk about these clevis' over the years, only to find a practical perfect matched solution!  I'm blown away.  Makes me want to pull mine a part and go with this set up.  

I'd love to move these two threads to the FAQ section.   Let me know if you have anything to add to them first though.

kev

#4 obsolete

obsolete

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 401 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Minnesota
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 26 March 2020 - 02:36 PM

Thanks kev! A lot of this, especially the pedal rebuild, is just following in your footsteps ;)

Let's wait until I can put a few miles on this setup--I plan to have the car back on the road this weekend. I'd also like to rotate and crop the pictures a little better. I'll send you a PM when I'm ready.
Buy the ticket, take the ride.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users