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D2 Front Coilover Prep COMPLETE tutorial


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#41 Fuze

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 12:59 PM

View Posttg118, on 15 April 2013 - 02:27 PM, said:

Big thanks to Fuze for this write-up, made it so much easier to know what to expect!!!

Yeah I get a little stressed before I do anything big on the car, I try to run through it in my head a million times if I haven't done it before. This was tricky enough to make a tutorial for, I'm glad it lowered the stress level of some of you guys.

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#42 RonnieJ

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 01:24 PM

+1 on the thanks!

#43 Coke

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 01:31 PM

Going to be doing my fronts this afternoon.  My friend who welds, just left his house to come here to help out.  Wish me luck!
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Dad's Conquest Parts - Has Just About Anything You May Need!
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1.)1987 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Totalled October 23, 2004
2.)1987 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Sold
3.)1988 Conquest TSi SHP - Rio Red - Crushed due to Extreme Rot
4.)1985 Starion LE - Seychelles Red/Nevada Sand 2 Tone - Crushed due to Extreme Rot
5.)1988 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Sold
6.)1988 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Sold
7.)1986 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Sold
8.)1987 Conquest TSi - Atlantic Blue Metallic - Totalled July 3, 2010
9.)1987 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Crushed due to Extreme Rot
10.)1988 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Crushed due to Extreme Rot
11.)1988 Conquest TSi - Serbia Black - Sold
12.)1986 Conquest Base - Seychelles Red Metallic - Sold
13.)1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Sarajevo White - Restoring
14.)1988 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Sold
15.)1988 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Palermo Grey - Sold
16.)1987 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Serbia Black - Crushed due to Extreme Rot

#44 Coke

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 01:34 PM

Also, when you guys did your rears, did you have to switch your lefts with rights, and rights with lefts?  My right is installed on the left, and my left is installed on my right.  It was the only way they would fit with the brake line brackets oriented in the correct position.  Was wondering if anyone else had this situation.
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Dad's Conquest Parts - Has Just About Anything You May Need!
Starquest.i-x.net - AGAIN, Home of the S.O.S. Manuals


1.)1987 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Totalled October 23, 2004
2.)1987 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Sold
3.)1988 Conquest TSi SHP - Rio Red - Crushed due to Extreme Rot
4.)1985 Starion LE - Seychelles Red/Nevada Sand 2 Tone - Crushed due to Extreme Rot
5.)1988 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Sold
6.)1988 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Sold
7.)1986 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Sold
8.)1987 Conquest TSi - Atlantic Blue Metallic - Totalled July 3, 2010
9.)1987 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Crushed due to Extreme Rot
10.)1988 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Crushed due to Extreme Rot
11.)1988 Conquest TSi - Serbia Black - Sold
12.)1986 Conquest Base - Seychelles Red Metallic - Sold
13.)1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Sarajevo White - Restoring
14.)1988 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Sold
15.)1988 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Palermo Grey - Sold
16.)1987 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Serbia Black - Crushed due to Extreme Rot

#45 NikoFab

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 05:06 PM

View PostCoke, on 08 June 2013 - 01:31 PM, said:

Going to be doing my fronts this afternoon.  My friend who welds, just left his house to come here to help out.  Wish me luck!

I wanna see pics when it's done!

#46 383chevelle

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 08:16 PM

My fronts and rears are both switched. Lefts on right and rights on left.

#47 randy

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 06:34 PM

Why the switch from right to left and left to right mounting tabs wrong or the angle after modding?

#48 Coke

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 07:24 PM

Yes.
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Dad's Conquest Parts - Has Just About Anything You May Need!
Starquest.i-x.net - AGAIN, Home of the S.O.S. Manuals


1.)1987 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Totalled October 23, 2004
2.)1987 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Sold
3.)1988 Conquest TSi SHP - Rio Red - Crushed due to Extreme Rot
4.)1985 Starion LE - Seychelles Red/Nevada Sand 2 Tone - Crushed due to Extreme Rot
5.)1988 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Sold
6.)1988 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Sold
7.)1986 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Sold
8.)1987 Conquest TSi - Atlantic Blue Metallic - Totalled July 3, 2010
9.)1987 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Crushed due to Extreme Rot
10.)1988 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Crushed due to Extreme Rot
11.)1988 Conquest TSi - Serbia Black - Sold
12.)1986 Conquest Base - Seychelles Red Metallic - Sold
13.)1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Sarajevo White - Restoring
14.)1988 Conquest TSi - Rio Red - Sold
15.)1988 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Palermo Grey - Sold
16.)1987 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Serbia Black - Crushed due to Extreme Rot

#49 randy

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 09:06 PM

I guess the modding never stops.

#50 383chevelle

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 10:44 PM

My front camber plates didn't line up right when I put them on the correct side. The camber adjustment was in an odd direction. Switching them right to left was the only way I could get them to adjust in the correct orientation In the back the brake brackets didn't line up right when they were on the correct side.

#51 mstieg

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Posted 25 January 2014 - 10:57 PM

Bump for those of us in the recent wave of D2s.  Has the left/right issue been resolved for fronts &/or rears? (per these earlier posts)?
Before: 352 rwhp @15psi; MPI: SDS EM5F; Chad intake & equal length header; S256 turbo (56/80comp-64/74ex); 48" of 2.5" IC piping
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#52 Funky Phil

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Posted 25 January 2014 - 11:07 PM

Everything lined up on my install.
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#53 Funky Phil

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Posted 25 January 2014 - 11:10 PM

View PostTsTKl, on 21 March 2012 - 07:43 PM, said:

please elaborate then?

Ground controls are not full coilovers.

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#54 NikoFab

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Posted 25 January 2014 - 11:38 PM

View PostTexasQuest, on 22 March 2012 - 08:09 AM, said:

K Sport

View PostMotoCam360, on 22 March 2012 - 09:45 PM, said:

K sport is considered by many to be essentially orange colored D2s....  Wasn't there a thread here recently stating that Tein had full coil overs for Starion?

View PostTexasQuest, on 23 March 2012 - 02:16 PM, said:

Wrong. K Sport is a completely different company.

View PostCoke, on 13 January 2013 - 08:49 AM, said:

I also see 'XYZ' brand coil overs on eBay as well.  I guess it comes down to what colors you want your coilovers to be. Hah

Here's the breakdown on D2/KSport.  They are different companies (credit to TexasQuest)...however they are made in the same plant, by the same people, on the same assembly line (credit to MotoCam). It's like comparing a Scion FRS to a Subaru BRZ...same chassis, same motor, same frame, same cockpit.  About all that's different is some trim elements and front and rear body fascia touches.  At any rate, they are wholesaled to the market by the same manufacturer.  

The same manufacturer that is imposing a price hike on D2s is also price hiking the KSports.  Both lines are considered to be a mid-range coilover.  Tein would be considered a top line coilover.

XYZ coilovers are considered to be a cheaper coilover due to shaving cost by skimping on some of the production bits and processes (metallurgy rating, welding template, etc.).  In fact, the coilovers that XYZ sells are produced by a subsidiary arm of the same Taiwanese mother company that produces D2s and KSports.  At any rate, I'd advise steering clear of XYZs.  Check any other forum reviews on them and it's not flattering whatsoever.

#55 MTQuest

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 06:51 PM

Great write up! It was an extremely simple conversion, and in a day I was rolling again.

Wanted to add to this thread by saying 309 welding is the best rod to adhere the carbon based spindle housing to the stainless steel insert that D2 has provided. Was told this by a certified welder. The 309 is the absolute best around for a wide variety of carbon based too stainless welding. When it comes stiff suspension, pot holes, safety, and the difficult weld behind the caliper bracket you better use the best of the best. It was only $15 a pound at a local welding supply store.... Just my extra 2 cents.
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#56 CarlosFley

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 06:05 PM

Hey guys, so I'm doing the fronts today. My question now is, do I have to take the entire wheel hub apart? And if so, there's a cotter pin which it says on the FSM is non reusable. Is it really? If so, where do I acquire such a pin? Or does the wheel hub even need to be taken apart? I would love to know it doesn't have to be cuz that'll save me a lot of time. Please help and comment. Thanks.
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Interested in: CF 83 style hood, CF air daayyuum. Ohh and turbo-to-intercooler hardpipe.

#57 TexasQuest

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 09:38 PM

Yes it needs to be taken down apart all the way. You can match up the cotter pin size at most auto parts stores.
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

#58 Fuze

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Posted 16 September 2014 - 07:41 AM

View PostCarlosFley, on 13 September 2014 - 06:05 PM, said:

Or does the wheel hub even need to be taken apart? I would love to know it doesn't have to be cuz that'll save me a lot of time. Please help and comment. Thanks.

It's only one big nut to take the hub off, not a big deal. A cotter pin is a cotter pin, they just don't like to be bent multiple times as they tend to break. Every auto parts store has them.

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#59 CarlosFley

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Posted 16 September 2014 - 09:45 AM

Yeah I already finished it Fuze. Took the hub apart, thought it was more work than it really was :/ She's nice and low now :D
'87 Chrysler Conquest TSI NON-SHP "Diamond"-Walbro 255, rebuilt TB, OVC hardpipe with HKS SSQV, GM 3" MAF, 1G DSM MAF Translator, 88-89 knock box, black silicone vacuum lines, ABS & Cruise Control delete, 3" HKS Super Power Flow, wire tucked... kinda :/, NRG adjustable shift knob, MSD Blaster 2, tucking tire in the rear and zero wheel gap in fronts on D2's, aaaaaaaannddddd stickaaaaaassssss for that booooooooost!

Interested in: CF 83 style hood, CF air daayyuum. Ohh and turbo-to-intercooler hardpipe.

#60 RonnieJ

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Posted 16 September 2014 - 11:31 AM

Oops wrong thread sorry

Edited by RonnieJ, 16 September 2014 - 11:33 AM.





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