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D2 Front Coilover Prep COMPLETE tutorial


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#1 Fuze

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 09:50 AM

Ready to take your suspension to the next level with a D2 coil-over setup? I was curious how hard it would be to install the front struts, so after I went through the process, I figured I’d show you guys how easy it was, step by step in what I think is the best way to do this. There is more than one way to skin a cat, but I'll let the results speak for themselves. Remember, wear your goggles.

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1. Either remove or locate a set of front spindles/strut tubes. Cut the tubes down, leaving 2-3 inches. THIS IS IMPORTANT, don’t cut them all the way down to the spindle casting! More on that later. Now you’ll see that the D2 lower tube won’t fit over the stock strut tube, it’s just barely too small, not really sure why.  Resist the urge to bang on it, you’ll need to sand the tube down a little to get it to fit. This way you can adjust the angle of the brakeline mount easily before welding. I used an angle grinder with a flap wheel, a grinding disk is overkill. I suppose you could use a wire-wheel with a drill if you had to, good luck with that.


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2. This tube is now ready, you can see I sanded all the paint off, also a little metal, and I sanded the upper part of the spindle casting since this is where the weld will go. Don’t go crazy sanding the tube,  just take enough off to allow the D2 tube to slide over without wobbling once it’s on there.


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3. Now you can see the D2 tube will slide right on. Feels good!


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4. Remember what I said about not cutting the tube off at the casting? Notice while looking up close that the stock strut tube does not come out of the spindle casting on a 90 degree angle. This is why you need to leave some of the strut tube intact so the D2 tube will be on the exact same angle… otherwise you’re going to have some negative camber you didn’t expect. No reason to use up all your camber adjustment to fix that.


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5. Buzz the powdercoating off the D2 tube for welding. Smells like burning plastic!


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6. Should look something like this when it’s ready to weld!


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7. This is the finished, welded piece, solid as a rock.  The brake line tab should be pointing toward the inside of the fender.   All we need to do now is hit it with a coat of gloss black, I used the “double coverage” Rustoleum (yes I am a spraypaint snob) so it won’t turn brown in one day.


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That’s clean.  Ready to install. Feel free to post any questions for all to benefit.

Edited by Fuze, 23 December 2010 - 11:17 PM.

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#2 spoolinturbo

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 10:02 AM

good write up. i would suggest using a self etching primer on the weld area first to help protect that weld in the future.
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#3 AlexNYC

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 10:17 AM

Good simple and straight forward.
contemplating on redoing my MR2 set up, this seems straight forward.  Thanks for take you the time to write it up.
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#4 Fuze

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Posted 27 December 2010 - 10:36 PM

View PostAlexNYC, on 23 December 2010 - 10:17 AM, said:

Good simple and straight forward.
contemplating on redoing my MR2 set up, this seems straight forward.  Thanks for take you the time to write it up.

I'm glad it helped.
Thanks.

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#5 importwarrior

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Posted 28 December 2010 - 11:36 AM

Along with what you have done... i have read to drill a couple of holes in the D2 part that slid over about a inch
up from the bottom. then weld the hole to the spindle casting. it should make for a
better stronger piece. like one hole on opposite sides then weld them up.

Edited by importwarrior, 28 December 2010 - 11:39 AM.

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#6 Fuze

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Posted 29 December 2010 - 10:47 AM

View Postimportwarrior, on 28 December 2010 - 11:36 AM, said:

Along with what you have done... i have read to drill a couple of holes in the D2 part that slid over about a inch
up from the bottom. then weld the hole to the spindle casting. it should make for a
better stronger piece. like one hole on opposite sides then weld them up.

Yeah, I agree while the tubes are off drilling a few holes is easy. Button welding them up would technically make them more rigid.

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#7 starquestJOE

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Posted 29 December 2010 - 07:47 PM

View PostFuze, on 29 December 2010 - 10:47 AM, said:

Yeah, I agree while the tubes are off drilling a few holes is easy. Button welding them up would technically make them more rigid.
thats what i had done. " PLUG WELDED " the guy that welded mine felt it should be done.

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#8 importwarrior

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Posted 30 December 2010 - 09:57 AM

cool i didnt know what the term was called but it
is only a suggestion.

have any pics of the plug or button welds?

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#9 Fuze

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Posted 03 January 2011 - 09:24 AM

View Postimportwarrior, on 30 December 2010 - 09:57 AM, said:

cool i didnt know what the term was called but it
is only a suggestion.

have any pics of the plug or button welds?

I'd like to see too, but it's just drilling a penny sized hole straight through the D2 cylinder, prepping the strut tube that will show through the hole, and welding around the circle to fill in the hole..

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#10 NudeLobster

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Posted 04 January 2011 - 12:07 AM

View PostFuze, on 03 January 2011 - 09:24 AM, said:

I'd like to see too, but it's just drilling a penny sized hole straight through the D2 cylinder, prepping the strut tube that will show through the hole, and welding around the circle to fill in the hole..

how are they stronger than a normal weld at the bottom? is there a strategic way of placing them around the tube for engineered strength or what?

-Justin

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#11 importwarrior

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Posted 04 January 2011 - 07:41 AM

not that it is any better or stronger. BUT it places a weld at the bottom
of the D2 part and another button weld about an inch or so higher. I feel
it might crack if only the bottom is welded. in the past another user had
made some strut casings and they all seemd to crack at the bottom weld.
again that was Apples to Oranges. it is just a little more insurance for
safety.

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#12 spiceisler

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Posted 25 May 2011 - 07:25 AM

Don't know if I missed it, but what D2's were used for this?
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#13 TsTKl

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Posted 09 July 2011 - 01:31 AM

the ones made for conquests/starions.

Yes, they are ikea status coil overs
proof it did run at one point...
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#14 25gconquest

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Posted 17 August 2011 - 05:16 PM

Thanks for the post the info will help when I put mine together. Conrad

#15 JohnnyWadd

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 06:46 PM

I stole the button weld idea. I think it "might" crack with severe use. The tight fit on the old tube is really going to prevent a lot of deflection and stress on the weld. I had a image in my head of the Arts coilovers pictures when they failed.

#16 25gconquest

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 11:32 PM

how do you determin which pillow ball setup is for the left or right front there is no marking on the kit.Looking at the pillow ball if you switch side the adjustment screw are on a different angle left to right.

#17 Fuze

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Posted 04 November 2011 - 01:35 PM

View Postspiceisler, on 25 May 2011 - 07:25 AM, said:

Don't know if I missed it, but what D2's were used for this?

Yes, the welding of the front D2's is "normal", they are for the Starion but you do need to attach the spindles to the lower strut bodies. They are not sold with spindles attached, and unlike other cars it's the only way to bolt them up to replace the stockers.

As far as the Ikea status quip by tsTKI, these are quality parts, each is fully tested and comes with individual test result sheet for each coilover. D2 is heavily involved in motorsports worldwide, good R&D for their products. I personally think they really make the Starion a better car with no negative impact, and are miles ahead of a strut/spring combo, no offense to anybody but I've had all the setups on my cars over the years.

Edited by Fuze, 04 November 2011 - 01:36 PM.

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#18 patra_is_here

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 10:50 PM

btw, that 'double coverage' rustoleum is garbage. It's super runny, thin, and fades way fast. my satin 'double coverage' basically turned in to powder in the sun. regular thick rustoleum is the only way to go =)

#19 Threedoor

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 04:19 AM

Is installation the same for a flatty front suspension?

Could you just cut off the spring perch, and brake line tab, sand down the stock tube and slide it together that way?  Or does more of the stock tube need to be removed for clearance of the threaded portion I see in the D2 housing?  It seems like the more of the stock tube that is left, the more room you have for the button welds for added strength.  

I really need to learn to weld!

Keith

#20 Fuze

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 03:10 PM

View PostThreedoor, on 13 February 2012 - 04:19 AM, said:

Is installation the same for a flatty front suspension?

Could you just cut off the spring perch, and brake line tab, sand down the stock tube and slide it together that way?  Or does more of the stock tube need to be removed for clearance of the threaded portion I see in the D2 housing?  It seems like the more of the stock tube that is left, the more room you have for the button welds for added strength.  

I really need to learn to weld!

Keith

You can only leave about 4-5 inches of the stock shock tube or the D2 tube won't slide all the way down to the spindle casting. You can still drill holes in the D2 tube and weld the button welds. I don't have a welder, I took it to my favorite muffler shop and they did it for $20.

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