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Dash Replacement Gauge panel - Interest for possible GP


mstieg
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5 gauge dash overlay panel  

15 members have voted

  1. 1. Would you buy this at posted price?

    • Yes - I want / need one (post if more than 1)
      10
    • Maybe
      4
    • No - comment reason below (if other than not needing one)
      1


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GP OPEN: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=136703&hl=

 

^ ^ ^ Details in new thread. ^ ^ ^

 

 

 

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/14392/Gauge_Panel_1.JPG

 

Overlapping the stock molding, as will be installed:

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/14392/gauge_panel_3.JPG

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/14392/Gauge_Panels_both2.JPG

Edited by mstieg
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Voted no.... I guess I'm just failing to see what the need is here. Is this just a new overlay for the standard size gages to fit in? I would guess anyone with the skills / willingness to hack up there cluster could just install gages themself, into the stock cluster, and run a few wires. The main battel is that stupid plastic shroud.
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The issue w stock panel is two-fold:

1) the 4 tiny gauges on left/right are very hard to find & dont match.

2) the only stock hole that fits anything aftermarket like Automter is the center turbo one. Even the stock big holes are too big for aftermarket tach & speedo.

 

Even so, there is a small market for those going thus route. May be better to just make one by hand. CNC perfection would be IS nice...

Edited by mstieg
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O I get the issue with the gages. #1 they suck, and have not inspired me they are even ballpark accurate. Yeah I get they are not standard size, even the boost gage is not standard sized (it's closeest but still not perfect)

 

That being said going this rout why not just gut the whole thing and install new gages? I tried to fit a standard aftermarket oil temp, water temp, ect..... basicly wanted to use stock tac, spedo, and gas gage, and replace all the others. It gets tight near the outskirts of the hood, and depending on how you put them in there, they come close to the plastic front. This would have to be a whole new setup you install the stock tac, spedo in then just gut most of the rear.

 

You will also want to consider even standard size around gages are diffrent in depth, and how far out the brazeal sticks (which if you leave the pexi infront causes issues. Gage to gage the mounts also differ. If this were a whole unit with gages that would work... but good luck getting everyone to agree, on what they want need.... + good gages are pricey.

 

The best I came up with was an all in one type in the center spot, and a few of the stock one's still hooked up more as warning lights. PITA with that is if the plexi is still infront you can't hit the button to changes functions. After this I just stuck an autometer E glow boost gage in the stock spot, wired it to my MK1 Eglows and installed everything else where the radio use to be. But I also don't even have a radio so there was no issue for me other then I don't like them being so low.

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The front clear plexi will likely have to go away since it hits the bezel of the center and 2 bigger gauges.

 

Essentially, this is gutting it and going with all new gauges. That's why I think most won't want to do this...especially with the fuel gauge.

 

The white plastic stock piece will require some hacking and trimming to allow for depth, even a complete hole through for some, however keeping the green circuit "sheet" and stock plugs, etc. keeps turn signals and warning lights going without having to mess w/ that. Gutting it all is great if going race only, but those road functions will be gone. Splice into a few wires to "take over" the dimmer circuit to light up the new ones and wire each as they would be needed anyways. Like I said, I'll document all the steps to save others much time.

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I like where the heart of this is..... allot especialy after trying to figure pretty much the same thing out and aborting the mission myself. This is going to be ALLOT of work. Might I sugest to make it easier the route I was thinking. Make a whole new mount about where the plexi is. Move stock gages your keeping up there, and make a stock harness plugin. The sides (if you were even planning on putting new gages in stockish type spots gets tight.
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From scratch it would be a lot of work. With good instructions, simply splicing some wires here & there, removing all the stock components & buzzing out a good deal of white plastic with a Dremmel.

 

I'm already mostly there having replaced 2 of the small stockers and center boost with an EGT. Just a matter of clearing more space behind where nothing is visible. I thought about what you mentioned, but re-designing the black front piece with sides & such would be much more work & $$.

Edited by mstieg
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Have you tried to put the brazeal back on after the 2 small side gages were replaced? The angle in, and stupid wires for the buttons and structure for the bottons ECT realy got in my way when I was mocking it up.

 

I think it would be great to have a roadmap to this, for someone looking to do this allot easier then trial and error.

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Yes, the 2 small 1 1/2" oil press & temp Autogauge replacements fit well & cleared the plexi, but the EGT bezel did not and started a crack do I know any Autometer will hit that.

 

I'll do a write up either way.

Edited by mstieg
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  • 1 month later...

Bump update:

 

The first run needed a few adjustments, but it's looking very good. This is a side project for this place and they're swamped now. Everything's lining up very well. I don't plan on making a run of these unless people want them. Pics coming soon!

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Voted yes , save me a lot of hassle making one , in for sure and your design is perfect !

 

Oh it's nice. Looking further I may eliminate the green soft circuit sheet. Only need to figure the turn signals & warning lights. New gauges bulbs all wire up together & original back lighting can go now. It's been a few years since I got it this far:

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/14392/Gauges_2_0.JPG

 

^ Everything worked but doesn't look good.

 

 

 

Pic of black plastic overlay coming. Hopefully before Tues when I'l be gone for a week. Sorry for a no-pic tease but it'll help knowing what interest to expect for running out more once mine's done.

 

Please post if you are looking for black stock plastic look (it's close and subtle) or aluminum.

Edited by mstieg
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I voted yes. I'm not to the point of replacing gauges yet, but when I do, this would be awesome.

 

 

Sure, replacing the gauges is going to be a struggle no matter how you do it, but to have a piece that's already designed with the holes in the right places and precision cut will make for a lot less work and time than trying to cut the piece and gauge holes yourself with unprecise tools like saws and grinders. I can see spending many hours and scrap pieces of plastic before getting it right if we did it ourselves. I don't know about the rest of y'all, but my time is worth money. Any hour I spend working on something for myself is one less hour I could be making $20-25 working on customer stuff. $40 is two hours for me, and I can assure you it would take me way more than 2 hours to get something that worked and looked decent.

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Pics posted up top. It all lines up perfectly. I really like how the black plastic look turned out.

 

I'll get it fit up with the hood to ensure that closes over properly. Might need a some 0-ring bushings to fill in for the depth of the 8 screws with the clear plastic window in front no longer being used.

 

Again, please post if you are looking for black plastic pictured, or aluminum (and additional finish if interested). I need to finalize prices by demand now. I'll start a new GP for orders when I return from a trip on 4/17. I won't be having more made than needed.

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Black stock look for me mang , , would it be possible to order one without the holes drilled for the speedo and boost gauge ? :)

 

Simply removing a few holes won't be extra since they could do that pretty easily.

 

Just the left 2 (sm & big) and one right (sm) holes then? PM me to confirm if this is how you want it.

Edited by mstieg
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  • 2 weeks later...

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