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My new system


Boosted77.
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Well, after my old system got stolen out of my Z28 back in '99 I got out of stereo systems for several years. So last year I decided to put a CD player in the Quest. It all started from there. Here are some pics of the latest system as it came together. I've already had another subwoofer box, that I built, and sub in there but wasn't really happy with it so I then bought a pre-fab slot port box and wasn't happy with that either. I started with a Power Acoustik FUBR 12" subwoofer and a TIS 1800 watt amp. It sounded good but I wanted to peal my face off with bass and that system wasn't doing it.

 

So here we are. The CD player is a Pioneer DEH-5000UB. It's got a remote control which is pretty cool. It has a ton of adjustments to tune the sound how I like.

Next are some tweeters for that tic tic that makes your ears ring. They're pretty loud.

For the subwoofer I went with a single Orion HCCA 12.2 which handles 2000 watts RMS and 4000 watts peak, but even those specs are underrated.

For the sub amplifier I picked up a mint used Zapco Ref750 which pushes a legitimate 1000 watts RMS. If you know anything about amps, Zapco are about the best though they are not the most expensive.

Now for the box. I wish I had started taking pics before the first cut was made. I built it to spec with the correct airspace and port tuning frequency with the help of a fantastic subwoofer box design program called WinISD Pro Alpha. And it was free to download! After completing the box I couldn't quite decide whether to carpet or spend a little extra and have it Line-X'd. Well I'm glad I went the route I did because the end result is top notch.

So thanks for looking and lemme know what you guys think.

Oh btw it friggen pounds so mission accomplished.

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10154/Stereo_installation_pics_2012.jpg

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Edited by Boosted77.
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Well I have aftermarket speakers that I haven't installed just yet, still in the boxes in the house. And yup, I just bought a 150 amp Dodge SRT-4 neon alternator today. I had to trim the alternator bracket a bit and drill out the bolt hole on the new alternator a little bit but it bolts right up otherwise. Should really help to keep the amps up because the stock alternator is strugglin.
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And invest in some "quality" mids/tweets and adequate power to keep up with that sub.

 

 

 

 

Turborusty

 

 

Agreed. I never understood those people who buy monster subs and sub amps then just run some coaxials on deck power.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Definitely. I have new mids and highs; just haven't installed them yet. I did put a cpl tweeters on the corners of the dash. They helped a lot. I changed the amp out to a PA a3000db. This amp puts out right at 2000 watts rms at about 13 volts. The car seriously hurts to sit in for more than 5 minutes with it cranked up. The back glass flexes so much I'm afraid it's gonna blast out all over the street. Oh yeah. B-B-B-Bass!!!
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  • 1 month later...
Why such a big alternator? i cant find any that big for a reasonable price. I never thought about how different alternators would be in the quest compared to my DTS. You would think that in such an old car that you wouldnt need such a big alt with a moderate sized system, but maybe i am underestimating your system. Its suchs to have planned everything about my car so well and over-look something like this... Give my your input im looking for about a 2k watt system max because this car is small.
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  • 4 weeks later...

I would like to know how you routed the v belt versus the serpentine pulley on the SRT4 alternator. I wanna upgrade so if you could provide some insight to make it easier? thanks.

 

 

You swap out the serpentine belt pulley with a V belt one. There may also need to be some spacers put in too.

Edited by Burton
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I would assume you just use the pulley of the SQ alternator. That's what the alt shop that built my 110A alt did- just swapped the pulley and put in a spacer so that the belt was aligned right.

 

 

I guess the Neon alt would be pretty cool if you don't want to cut wires, but I'd rather get the 110GM alt that Jolyrgrjr sells. Comes with the proper pulley already on it, the bracket, plug and everything you need. Proven to work great!

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How many amps is the stock alternator anyways, and I know orion was great equipment back in the 90's, but alot of those manufactureres from back than were bought out by cheaper companies that just used the name to pawn garbage off at higher prices, so how does that orion hcca sub stack up. I was thinking about one of those, or maybe one of the moster boston subs.
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stock puts out 75 amps, neon puts out 85amps, SRT4 puts out 150amp. and you do have to change out the pigtail to use either a neon or SRT4 alternator.

 

My question with the pully is that the hols in the pulley is bigger than the shaft on the alternator, so I need a spacer and a centering ring.

Edited by The Rabbit1
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Well yeah the pulley hole is slightly bigger so I had to line it up by hand and then tighten it down with my impact wrench. I also had to buy a longer belt because the housing is bigger and would hit the inside of the bracket so I had to slide it out more to fit. But since the PA a3000db amplifier carries a 150 external fuse I had to upgrade the alternator because with the old one it was "clipping" the piss outta the sub. Also for years if I had the lights on, windshield wipers on and the defogger the windshield wipers would almost stop moving while sitting at a light. I hated that.

 

The Orion HCCA 12.2 sub is a monster. It weighs right at 70 lbs! There are a few CEA rated amps for cheap on Ebay. If anyone would like some educated help in selecting some subs or amps for cheap, PM me. CEA rated amps are those that have been tested and certified to put out the RMS power they claim. If an amp states "2000 watts RMS" but has a 40 amp fuse on it, they are lying. You cannot make 2000 watts from 40 amps worth of fusing unless you putting like 20 volts to the amp which is absurd to try. It's just physics at work.

 

Here is my new amp I just got off of Craigslist. MTX Thunder92001. CEA cerified 3000 watts RMS. This amp carries a 300 amp external fuse. But these amps are well known to do way more power. It also has direct connections for a capacitor which I have been running now with the PA a3000db. So hooking up a cap is a sinch. I'll take some new pics after I install the amp and post them up because this amp is HUGE and looks good on the sub box.

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10154/MTX_amp_pics_003.jpg

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http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10154/MTX_amp_pics_001.jpg

 

Can you say "Holy ampguts batman!"

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Yeah.that's some monsterous amp.Still a long long way from stereo install but what did you coat/spray the sub box with/that looks really good.

That's gonna be painfully load inside that car.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

So here's the new enclosure as it came together and new amp. This enclosure hits much harder than the other one. I also installed some Bravox mids and highs. Also a couple links to vids I shot of it doing what it does best; pounding my brains in and making my eyes blur.

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10154/Pics_and_new_stereo_vids_004.jpg

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Edited by Boosted77.
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Thanks mang. Yeah the new box made a big difference in the low frequency response. I'm still thinking of taking the Orion HCCA 12.2 out and running a lower powered sub off of my Zapco Ref750 I have. The Orion sub is just plain violent as it has broken some things loose on my old car. Truly, I can only stand the bass for a couple minutes before I turn it down. It is very loud and you can feel it outside the car and you can see the bass shaking your shirt and paints while standing next to the car. It's insane. I also have a matching Zapco Ref220 for the mids/highs. The Zapco Ref750 is 1000 watts rms at 4 ohms and my friend has a brand new Alpine Type-X sitting in his garage which handles 1000 watts rms so the amp and sub would be perfect for each other. Decisions, decisions. I'll definitely keep you guys posted.
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