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Issue with acceleration after rebuild


alp247
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Ok so my 1989 Conquest Auto tranny was giving me problems. Problems with it slipping from 25mph - 30mph then all of a sudden it wouldn't reverse anymore. I decided to have it rebuilt and was told all the internals...everything was replaced. Before I brought the car in the car accelerated fine but shifted in high RPM's or would slip. Below is my issues i have with the car now after the rebuild:

  1. when i try to accelerate the car lags like it has no power to the wheels. I'm not even trying to floor it.
  2. When in Drive and stopped the idle is way low (second line on rpm). Idles fine when out of gear about 800-900rpm.
  3. When out of gear in Park it sounds like there is a rattle or some bearing loose inder the tranny. When i shut the car off it sounds like something rolling around in there

The mechanic said he thinks it maybe they gave the wrong converter or something. I remember reading about if the wrong drum is installed in the tranny the car wont run right. Need some advice from all the tranny experts. thanks

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Make sure all the VAC lines are connected in terms for the shifting. Also, the RPMs should drop a little when in drive stopped. Not quite that much though. Seems like something wasn't accurately replaced.

 

Some of the 88-89 trannys had a defect from the factory. My father said he took my 88 back to the dealer at MINIMUM 15 times for the transmission. Every time they rebuilt it. Finally he said that they were either going to REPLACE the tranny or buy the car back at full value. They replaced the transmission and I'm still driving on the same tranny from the early 90s! Maybe you got one of those defective transmissions? Not saying that's the ENTIRE cause. But, it might be PART of it.

 

Hopefully some other guys will chime in with more knowledge on the matter. Good luck!

 

- Charles

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The Rabbit1,

Once it gets going it seems fine. I haven't taken it on the highway or anything like that since i didn't want to chance damaging anything so i didn't bother to check the OD yet. Does overdrive turn on anytime i turn it ON or does the tranny need to warm up before it can turn ON?

 

The tranny shifts smooth for the most part. It seem like it shifts a little quick so i'm not sure it it's supposed ot be like that since i don't know how a working auto tranny shifts.

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get it warm, go about 45/50 and hit the o/d switch on the shifter and see if the RPM's change, then going about 45/50 put the pedal completely to the floor (may have to try to go thru the floor with it) and see if it downshifts and hauls tail, this will tell me a little bit more.
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The Rabbit,

Ok so i got the car back from the shop. I guess some part # changed on the torque converter and the wrong one was put on the car. They told me they found my old one and did some home work and got another one. I took it out for a quick spin back home. I didn't really get on it but when i give it gas it seem to pick up fine now and doesn't hestitate from a dead stop. All the gears seem to shift fine up to 40-45mph. it's weird because now because it seems like it shifts quick like at 2500 rpm when crusing on it on the streets. I'm so used to it shiting like at 3000rpms. I haven't tested it on the highway yet since i just got it. I'll have to get on it a little and then test the OD on the highway. She drove it back when we went to pick up my car and said ....damn now it seems like it has power...that was fun. lol

 

it still drops a little on the RPM when coming to a stop but not like before when it was at 200rpm. Seems like it idles at 800-900 rpm but at times drops a little below when coming to a stop. For now all in all i feel pretty happy with the rebuild. I'll have to check up on the rpm drop...maybe it's something with the ICS sticking or something.

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The Rabbit1,

Ok took it for a spin and got the car up above 60 mph and tried the OD. I even tried it at lower speed to see if the rpm drops and it does. I just realized the light is not coming on. I just remembered the the OD light is supposed be on all the time and then turn off when the OD is switched on. i'm going to have to go back and have them check it as it was working before i brought it in. This weekend will be its first long drive and the wife will be putting it to the test and be driving about 150 miles so it better not have any issues or ill be pissed.

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Well the OD issue ended up being the light bulb being out on the dash board. So now when the OD is Off it is displayed on the dash. The only concern left is i don't like when i put the car in gear it sounds like i have bad hydraulic lifter (this is the best sound to describe what i am hearing) that is the sound i get when the car is in gear and drive. When the car is in P or N the car is quite and when i REV it up it fine but when i put it in D and drive it ticks. Any ideas where this sound could be coming from. Like i mentioned the tranny was supposed to be fully rebuild so i'm thinking when i brought it back for the bad acceleration they told be it was the torque converter and they had the wrong one installed. i'm wondering if they just put back the old one and that is why it's ticking?
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lift car and have someone hold the brake while in gear and search for said tick. could be any number of things. look for something look tapping against engine or trans. might be a loose bracket or maybe as much as dust cover on front of trans is loose. a flywheel or converter loose would be pretty loud.
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Take his advice on checking things out. I would suggest you also check the tension on the balance shaft chain. Access thru the timing chain cover. I had the same noise you described after I rebuilt my auto. Couldn't find anything loose or misalinged, then a month or so the noise stoped and I got low oil pressure. Balance shaft bearing spun, when pulled the timing cover the chain guide to the BS chain was positioned back making no contact. The engine is going back together now. Takes 2 minutes to do that check.
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Take his advice on checking things out. I would suggest you also check the tension on the balance shaft chain. Access thru the timing chain cover. I had the same noise you described after I rebuilt my auto. Couldn't find anything loose or misalinged, then a month or so the noise stoped and I got low oil pressure. Balance shaft bearing spun, when pulled the timing cover the chain guide to the BS chain was positioned back making no contact. The engine is going back together now. Takes 2 minutes to do that check.

 

ah yes, the little cover above the p/s pump, FSM shows how to do this, and do not use a tool to adjust it, just your finger as the FSM states.

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