Turbo Cary Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 (edited) I read a few posts where it seemed there was no write up on how to do this. Hopefully this will be helpful to someone. I did this today cost me 15 dollars after tax and had definitely helped with the steering quality. Part I used is Moog K9100 Tools Needed Ratchet14mm wrench14mm socket 17mm socket24mm socketHammerPrybar or long screwdriverWire brushGrease Raise vehicle. I work at a shop so I had access to a post lift. It can also be done with jack stands but then you would have to take off the passenger front wheel. Loosen 17mm nut on the bottom of the idler arm tube. I took it all the way off and then put it back on a couple of threads for the next step. With that same nut a back on a little use the hammer to tap up on it. After it cant be raised any higher take off the nut and use a prybar or screwdriver to tap up on the bottom of the head of the bolt. I had to do this because it was slightly rusty and wouldnt just pull out. Next there are 3 bolts for the bracket. Use the 14mm wrench and socket to take these off. Then swing the arm towards you and pull the bolt out. Pull the bracket off of the idler arm tube. There are bushings on the top and bottom. Take them out. Use a slim wire brush (I used a wire brush tube) to get the rusty clumpy stuff out of the tube. Use the wire brush on the bolt as well. Get as much rust off as possible. Once the rust was off I put grease on the bolt and inside the idler arm tube. Push the new bushings into the top and bottom of the idler arm tube. When putting the bracket back on the bushings were hard to slip the bracket over. I just rocked it back and forth until it lined up. Push the bolt through and install the new nut on the end. ---side note. The Idler arm comes with 2 bushings, a nut, and washer. I did not have to use the washer--- Then reinstall the bracket by tightening the 3 14mm bolts/nuts. Put the wheel back on if you removed it and lower the car your done! ---Doing this repair has made my steering feel more solid. Its cheap to do and its probably something that lots of people overlook.--- The grease I used was a synthetic brake caliper grease. It lasts long and it came with a brush to make it easier to get it in the idler arm tube Edited November 13, 2013 by Turbo Cary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy larry Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 yes highly overlooked Good write up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chassispuke Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 was this done on a flatty or fatty ?? part ##s might be different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Cary Posted November 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 I have an 86 widebody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 is there a difference between intercooled and non intercooled bushings for the idler arm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IntercooledFlatty Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 you can get the moog kit on ebay for cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankbob Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 (edited) I used these bushings when I rebuilt my front suspension, it was a little but different than the original part and didnt fit very well at first. Some how I got them in there and its fine now. Edited November 14, 2013 by tankbob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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