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Starion problems need help!!!

Starion Turbo 2.6 G54b Esi-r

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#1 #NBHNC

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 03:05 PM

Ok so I'm going to try my best to explain this to the "T".
it's a 86 starion esi-r

When I bought the car you had to pump the throttle constantly to keep it running and it would not rev passed 1800rpms, if you tried to hold a constant rpm with the throttle it would bog down and die.

My first reaction was the fuel filter was clogged.... Easy fix
I was wrong haha.  I limped the car to a friends shop and started digging.
I change out the fuel pump and filter just to make sure it was getting enough fuel ( the old pump was weak).
I didnt see the "pre-fuel pump" filter/screen so I assume someone has already been there to replace the pump.

After all of that it still doesn't run right at all.

The car starts up with out any problems with in 2 seconds of cranking the car is running, but it idles soo rough like it needs a good tune up( which has been done I will add a parts list at the end).

Now it kind of idles on its own and I can drive it but when I drive it sometimes bogs down and I have to let off so it wont die. It will buck and bog and start building boost also.
While trying to hold a steady speed lets say 60mph it bucks and feels like a huge miss but when I checked the plugs the shows that it's burning all the fuel like normal so it's not a mixture issue, the timmong is set to 10 btdc.

The old owner said he went to go eat and went inside and when he came out to leave the car ran like crap and limped it home.

I'll try to post a video of it as well.

Parts list ( stuff that has been replaced or tested good)

New fic 850cc injectors
New plugs
Good ngk wires maybe 3000 miles on them
New cap
New rotor
New fuel filter
New fuel pump
New o2 sensor
New maf
All new vaccine lines (replaced one by one to not mix them up)
New coolant temp sensor

The car had a oil change in Cali at 77,300 miles it has 78,100 on it now so this problem just happened.


Any help would be great!!!!!!!





#2 #NBHNC

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 03:22 PM

I forgot to mention that I drove the car last night it bucked and did its normal crap but I went into 3rd and it built boost ( 6-7psi) and took the hell off like nothing was wrong. But as soon as I slowed down and tried to drive it from a stop it started actin up again.



#3 rcm

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 03:37 PM

did you change out the injectors clips?

#4 #NBHNC

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 03:46 PM

One has been changed the other is still in good condition.

#5 #NBHNC

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 03:51 PM

One other thing I forgot to mention is that te fuel pump is making a pulsing sound.
I'm not sure if that will help narrow things down but I thought it was wierd.
The pump is a new OE replacement.

My civic has a Walbro 190lph and it has a steady whine to it. Not like the stations pulsing whine.


#6 creakyjoints

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 04:03 PM

It shouldnt pulse. My walbro at least when it is priming the system is a steady whine. I dont really hear it any other time. Have your checked for any air leaks? I would check everything twice to make sure. And I dont mean just look at it but take things of and look!

Edited by creakyjoints, 10 May 2012 - 04:05 PM.

the dude in the honda said, i thought you said your car was slow, my response was.. well you said yours was fast so i guess we both lied.. haha

#7 #NBHNC

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 04:16 PM

Are you talking about the intake boot and the charge pipe?

#8 #NBHNC

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 12:26 AM

Here's a link to the video of what it's doing, I am holding throttle to the floor the whole time it's doing this.
And you can hear the fuel pump pulsating.

http://m.youtube.com...h?v=kSa12qGD_Sc

#9 19cturbo

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 02:21 PM

when you set the timing, did you unhook the vac advance and cap that vac hose? also how much fuel pressure do you have?
Being not real since I learned what was good for me

 Convette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#10 #NBHNC

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 04:21 PM

Yes I did set timing with out the vac. Advance hooked up.
Fuel pressure is one thing I haven't got a chance to check.

I did the valve cover gasket the other day and check to make sure it didn't jump timing, it was spot on.

I did a tsp/isc reset, tsp is at .48v and at wot it's at 4.88v

Mas/maf is new

Fuel pump is new as well as the fuel filter, the pre-pump one is deleted and the in-tank filter is clean.

The problem is intermittent, i drove it one time and it studdered then ran perfect 2nd-5th let off to turn around and ran like crap.


#11 19cturbo

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 07:56 AM

maybe clean and rebuild you throttle body, and install new injector clips. i know its been said already. but even if they look good there could be corrosion in the wires. Just because one clip looks new doesnt mean anything. maybe they were soldered? maybe it wasnt done well and is loosing connection?
Being not real since I learned what was good for me

 Convette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#12 #NBHNC

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 02:44 PM

I went ahead and requires both just in case and the throttle body has aready Been rebuilt a few months ago.

#13 #NBHNC

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Posted 23 May 2012 - 12:31 PM

So I think I have narrowed it down now, the car runs like complete crap part throttle and at wot it bucks until about 3psi and the takes off 100% normal at 7psi with the mas/maf hooked up.

I unplugged the mas/maf and it ran smooth-ish at operating temp, it now idles and drives ok, it bucks a tiny bit as if it's has a bad miss while driving on the highway (I figure it's a bad mas/maf) and it not being hooked up it's running a little rough.
I'm going to try to clean the mas/maf first but if it is dead then I would like to do a 1g turbo mas/maf.
I can't seem to find any threads on wiring a 1g mas/maf into a 86 4 pin connector, but I can find the threads for the 87-89s.

I did see one that did a 1g mas/maf into a 83, I'm not sure if that would be the same as my 86.

Thanks guys!

#14 #NBHNC

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 12:41 AM

Quick update:

I pluged the mas/maf back in and still ran like crap (bucking hard).

I unplugged the map sensor (little black box on the fire wall) car ran perfect.
It had a small studder every 45-60 seconds while driving  it, it will studder a small bit but if I push the clutch in and let the rpms drop back to idle, then let the clutch out and bring the rpms back up (again while driving like 45mph) the studder will stop for 45-60 seconds the start studdering again.

What do you guys think of this?

Sorry for my noobness this is my first starion.

#15 Metric-man

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 03:02 AM

Are the throttle body vacuum lines staying attached?
Have you tested the TPS for continuity? ( ohm meter sweep test)
Have you tested the vacuum advance? ( if you loose even a slight amount of pressure it needs to be replaced)
If you're around the 3000 ft elevation where you drive I think there is a connector you need to ground to set the curb idle speed.
Check the harness connector for the MAP sensor.
Have you checked the fusible links and electrical grounding locations?
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#16 #NBHNC

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 10:58 AM

All the vacuum lines are staying attached.
I've donne a tps reset and test voltage but not ohms, the voltages was .48 closed and 4.88 WOT.
I pulled the vacuums line on the "vacuum advance" and there isn't much vacuum coming from the line, everything is hooked up right.
How do you test the vacuum advance?

Any idea where this connector is located for the curb idle?

All the fusible links and ground are fine. Nothing is corroded or broke at all.

While the car is running I have wiggled the harness and connectors and have Not seen any changes in the way it runs.

With both map and mas pluged in - car bucks very hard and bogs, if you get into boost after about 3-4 psi everything clears up and pulls hard all the way to redline. Part throttle (cruising) it bucks and bogs and won't hold a constant speed.

With the mas unplugged and map plugged in - car runs better, normal driving the car has a mild bucking and every 45-60 seconds while crusing a constant speed it feels like I let off the throttle. WOT is a little better then when both the map and mas are hooked up.

With that map unplugged and mas plugged in- the car drives almost perfect. There is a tiny ... I mean tiny buck/missing feel every so often while crusing highway speeds, all in all part throttle driving is about 95% good I didn't get it into boost because I read that the map is what tells the computer to add more fuel when you get into boost.


Maybe that can help narrow it down better.

Edited by #NBHNC, 24 May 2012 - 12:20 PM.


#17 #NBHNC

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 10:30 PM

I just checked the codes and it is throwing 1,3,4,5,6


#18 86starionIA

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Posted 26 May 2012 - 02:25 AM

View Post#NBHNC, on 24 May 2012 - 10:58 AM, said:

All the vacuum lines are staying attached.
I've donne a tps reset and test voltage but not ohms, the voltages was .48 closed and 4.88 WOT.
I pulled the vacuums line on the "vacuum advance" and there isn't much vacuum coming from the line, everything is hooked up right.
How do you test the vacuum advance?

Any idea where this connector is located for the curb idle?

All the fusible links and ground are fine. Nothing is corroded or broke at all.

While the car is running I have wiggled the harness and connectors and have Not seen any changes in the way it runs.

With both map and mas pluged in - car bucks very hard and bogs, if you get into boost after about 3-4 psi everything clears up and pulls hard all the way to redline. Part throttle (cruising) it bucks and bogs and won't hold a constant speed.

With the mas unplugged and map plugged in - car runs better, normal driving the car has a mild bucking and every 45-60 seconds while crusing a constant speed it feels like I let off the throttle. WOT is a little better then when both the map and mas are hooked up.

also the idle speed controller connector should be ontop of your TB
With that map unplugged and mas plugged in- the car drives almost perfect. There is a tiny ... I mean tiny buck/missing feel every so often while crusing highway speeds, all in all part throttle driving is about 95% good I didn't get it into boost because I read that the map is what tells the computer to add more fuel when you get into boost.


Maybe that can help narrow it down better.


do you have the factory injectors if so send them out to get cleaned and flow tested and if they are good put them back in i bought a set of trilogy injectors and my car ran good with the MAF unhooked but like crap with it plugged in i sent my stock injectors off and had them cleaned and now it runs fine with the maf plugged in < just something to check even if yours are brand new my trilogy's were aswell

Edited by 86starionIA, 26 May 2012 - 02:27 AM.

as of 1/31/2012 The 86 runs great

#19 louswheel

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Posted 28 May 2012 - 09:45 AM

I think its those injectors. Put a ser of OEM injectors and see what happens. New aftermarket does not mean better.

#20 #NBHNC

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Posted 06 June 2012 - 12:52 AM

I bought the car with the fic's so I do not have stock injectors.

One of my issues was a bad regulator ~19psi of fuel at idle.
It's fixed now.


It sound like it is cammed, but I have no vacuume leaks anywhere.
Would a sticky jet valve cause the "cammed effect"?







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