Raider 2.6

What page(s) in the FSM?

The most noticeable issue is the "common wear point" shown in that picture. My plan is to remove the pedal and replace the bushings at the top, clutch switch pad (currently missing, clutch switch wasn't being depressed), and the pin/rod thing. Mostly want to get the pedal out to see if I need to drill it out and use a bushing as PQ and a few others have mentioned/recommended. Are you saying I need to find that point at which A/B/C is in a straight line and there shouldn't be any force holding the spring in place? I'd like to avoid removing the entire bracket if possible.

I must be doing something wrong, the return spring won't budge from the bracket/perch. The FSM simply mentions inserting the spring on the pedal side then depressing the pedal to install the bracket side as a note for the installation process, but I don't see anything for removal. I have the clip unbolted from the bracket and the clutch switch removed, but it doesn't seem to matter whether the pedal is fully retracted or depressed, the spring is still solid in both the pedal and bracket. Doesn't help that I'm laying under the dash with limited mobility wt....

So this just showed up on my list of things to do. I don't see any info on safely/properly jacking up the car in the rear. I see mention on the crossmember, but do you jack it up one side at a time? Does it matter if wheels are left hanging or do they need to be supported somehow? I read something a while back about someone pulling an axle out of the housing by letting the arm(s) drop all the way, is that right? I just got under this thing today and it looks like every piece of rubber from the transmission mounts back will need replacing

So new hardware, probably take a wire brush to the turbo/downpipe studs, and a new manifold gasket. Looks like the turbo/downpipe gaskets are reusable, right? I need to use anti-sieze on the studs, head side? No loctite or anything?

Short story long, this car has had a ticking since I got it. I met up with Ken a little while ago and had him take a look see in the ol engine bay. Amongst other things we found that under acceleration you could see a puff of smoke come out the rear most cylinder between the head and manifold. There seemed to be an aweful lot of red rtv between the manifold/gasket/head, but all the studs looked to be intact. I finally got it apart to see what all I was in for: http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b240/jamez38/Starion/DSC03003.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b240/jamez38/Starion/DSC03000.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b240/jamez38/Starion/DSC03001.jpg I figure the first step would be to order new hardware. I would have to order at least a few nuts/washers considering some were replaced with whatever they had laying around and the turbo was mounted with 3 of the 4 bolts. I have a few questions concerning the reconditioning of the remaining parts, however. How do you properly install studs in the head? (head on engine, engine in car) Can I get away with using a die on the turbo studs? Should I just hit the phone book and look for machine shops to handle the manifold? Do I need to ask what they would charge to "plane" the manifold? For those who have had to do this, what did you do about the webbing? I may come up with something else as I go, this is my first experience with a turbo manifold and whatnot.

Would a jumpy speedo be the prelude to this situation? Do they typically work and then just stop working when something snaps?

Did you get it jason? Where are you in Tulsa? Be nice to have a local source for parts

Ken is just too helpful.....and hard to catch, did you already visit/leave Tulsa Ken?

Is it gone? I had left a message, figured since I didn't hear back, that was the case

So I've called, might try to put a plan together to get a truck/trailer and go get the damn thing

PQ has a helpful thread of how to remove the door panels properly, but I haven't come across an actual door/window/general maintenance thread/post. As with most old cars the innards are a bit loose/lopsided and I'm fairly certain I could take the panels off and with the help of the FSM/parts catalog, identify the worn/broken bits. I would probably need to cross my fingers pretty hard before looking to see if said parts are still available. Has anyone straightened out a lopsided power window? Replaced worn parts in the door? Replaced a whole power window assembly maybe? This is the PQ thread I was referring to: http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1214 Primarily I need to clean the switches (covered by PQ and others), check on the alignment of the window tracks (lost here), replace the upper panels (easy enough) and generally clean/lube the insides.

I'd go get it if I had a truck/trailer http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/2554867835.html

The connector on my '87 has very little slack in there, be careful about pulling on things when you are disconnecting it and reconnecting it. I had an issue where the gauge wouldn't read at all so I took the unit out to see what was up. I ended up taking the case apart and slightly bending the arm toward the coil looking thing that it is supposed to rub against to change resistance. That seemed to have done the trick as it is still reading and appears to be accurate enough. Not sure about the light though, mine comes and goes no matter the amount of fuel. Let us know if you figure that out

I didn't replace all my hoses, but when I did the TB I tried to get factory pieces and the only one I could find was number 16 in that diagram. The two L's can be purchased from a parts house (NAPA in my case) as well as the S shaped hose. I want to say the three I mentioned were about $14 each. Would've been a lot cheaper if the factory hoses were available