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How to window weld a steering socket coupler

window weld steering socket coupler steering coupler steering socket steering play

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#1 Aman

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Posted 01 April 2013 - 11:27 PM

Finally got tired of the play in my wheel, and decided to window weld the steering socket coupler!
A list of things you'll need:
1: Window weld (You can get this at Autozone, Amazon, etc.)
2: A caulk gun. (I suggest a Kobalt one from Lowes. I broke two and finally went for the Kobalt and it worked.
3. A clean steering socket coupler. The rubber on the female side of the coupler just popped out of mine. The male side required scraping and a wire brush.
4. Gloves (I recommend..)

Well, heres your clean coupler.
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As you can see, the female side is hollow.
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I used a piece of blister packaging plastic from the wheel locks I bought early that day. I actually recommend aluminum can metal or something, using the clear piece as a template.
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Stuff the piece in the female side
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Fill the female side with window weld. Just a forewarning, Window weld is some super stout stuff. I had to put the caulk gun handle on the workbench and lean on the gun to get the stuff to come out.
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Put the male side into the female side. Leave 7/16'ths of an inch between the bottom of the female side and the beginning of where the rubber was on the male side.
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Slap your gloves on and run the bead around the coupler, but do it loosely. You want as much of the window weld to stay there, just make it look clean.
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This job did pretty great for me, but I think I'm going to buy a a broken coupler from someone, window weld it, and put a piece of pipe over it and weld it. Metal weld for everything, window weld for back up. I feel a huge difference in steering though, and I retain the vibration absorbency.
1987 Chrysler Conquest - Originally Shetland beige - JDL EL divided T3 - Genuine HX35 8-blade - CXracing intercooler and piping - Trunk mount Optima Yellow -
TiAL 38MM MVS x 2 - Maxboost MPI running MS3 - CNP ignition - Stock head (Yeah, yeah, I know.) - Stock bottom end with 50K original miles at stock
levels, sat in garage for 30 years
2000 Ford Expedition- Oxford White - Waiting on the Quest to be done to get a BTS transmission - Daily driver





#2 mstieg

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Posted 01 April 2013 - 11:34 PM

So you've been using this since?  I'd like to hear feedback on the feel/vibration with the Window Weld vs. straight metal welding.  I got pretty mixed results in a previous thread on this.

Can't see how the Window Weld wouldn't work, unless it goes bad like the stock rubber over time.  Still have the female/male stock setup that'll work but with play at worst.
Before: 352 rwhp @15psi; MPI: SDS EM5F; Chad intake & equal length header; S256 turbo (56/80comp-64/74ex); 48" of 2.5" IC piping
Now Done:  7.5:1 .35 Wiseco rebuild w/ crank scraper; 274 Magna roller cam & 1.55 rockers; mod port AMC head; 1mm>valves; Innovate WB; GM alt/rewired; 3" 240 alum radiator, elec fans; BMW X5 oil separator exh. crankcase vent; gas tank renewed; D2s; sway/strut bars; LT1 T56 clutch & trans swap w/ Fidanza; 4.22 rear; 265 Kumos on SHP rears; new steering pump/box/lines & coupler fix: http://www.starquest...howtopic=139558; full dash/console rewire - Autometer, push start, etc.
In Progress: breakin & tune
Future: Enjoy driving again; meets & local shows; AC; WG reroute from open vent to exh; Water/Meth?; body/paint

FOR SALE:  Rear Camber plates (basic); NIB beefy U-joints(2); etc.see-->  http://www.starquest...howtopic=133262 Custom 5 gauge overlay panel: http://www.starquest...pic=136703&st=0

#3 Aman

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Posted 01 April 2013 - 11:44 PM

I'll give weekly updates. It held up great for it's first day of spirited driving today ;D
1987 Chrysler Conquest - Originally Shetland beige - JDL EL divided T3 - Genuine HX35 8-blade - CXracing intercooler and piping - Trunk mount Optima Yellow -
TiAL 38MM MVS x 2 - Maxboost MPI running MS3 - CNP ignition - Stock head (Yeah, yeah, I know.) - Stock bottom end with 50K original miles at stock
levels, sat in garage for 30 years
2000 Ford Expedition- Oxford White - Waiting on the Quest to be done to get a BTS transmission - Daily driver

#4 RonnieJ

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Posted 01 April 2013 - 11:59 PM

Can you just weld the 2 together rather than window weld epoxy?

#5 Aman

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 12:43 AM

People have thought about that, but the weld could fail over time, and when that weld pops, and the coupler is metal to metal play, it will be when you least expect it and ram someone. I'm going to window-weld + weld on my next coupler. Who wants to sell me one? Hahaha
1987 Chrysler Conquest - Originally Shetland beige - JDL EL divided T3 - Genuine HX35 8-blade - CXracing intercooler and piping - Trunk mount Optima Yellow -
TiAL 38MM MVS x 2 - Maxboost MPI running MS3 - CNP ignition - Stock head (Yeah, yeah, I know.) - Stock bottom end with 50K original miles at stock
levels, sat in garage for 30 years
2000 Ford Expedition- Oxford White - Waiting on the Quest to be done to get a BTS transmission - Daily driver

#6 RonnieJ

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 12:58 AM

Not mig I mean properly tig welded and back purged. I don't think that would pop if done right. It's stronger than epoxy

#7 Aman

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 01:54 AM

This really makes me want to buy a worn coupler.
1987 Chrysler Conquest - Originally Shetland beige - JDL EL divided T3 - Genuine HX35 8-blade - CXracing intercooler and piping - Trunk mount Optima Yellow -
TiAL 38MM MVS x 2 - Maxboost MPI running MS3 - CNP ignition - Stock head (Yeah, yeah, I know.) - Stock bottom end with 50K original miles at stock
levels, sat in garage for 30 years
2000 Ford Expedition- Oxford White - Waiting on the Quest to be done to get a BTS transmission - Daily driver

#8 jeph_tsi

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 09:19 AM

that window weld is some tough stuff, seems like a good fix to me.  A trick I always used is to leave the tube in front of a torpedo heater for a minute or two, or if its hot out sit it on some hot asphault for 10 minutes or so, this will soften it up a bit and make it easier to use with a standard caulking gun.
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#9 importwarrior

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 12:02 PM

should be stickied.

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#10 Convette

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 01:39 PM

Great write up, I know that stuff is amazingly strong.  Ive seen ppl use it for all kinda of stuff.   But why not just run a aftermarket steering joint, or just weld it solid like Ronnie said?  If its shock absorption your after I understand.

#11 JohnnyWadd

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 01:46 PM

Nice. What the clear plastic in there for? Just to keep it from flowing out the bottom?

#12 Aman

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 01:50 PM

Indeed, we don't want super-stiff rubber in the splined side, or else you couldn't get in on the gearbox. Hahaha
1987 Chrysler Conquest - Originally Shetland beige - JDL EL divided T3 - Genuine HX35 8-blade - CXracing intercooler and piping - Trunk mount Optima Yellow -
TiAL 38MM MVS x 2 - Maxboost MPI running MS3 - CNP ignition - Stock head (Yeah, yeah, I know.) - Stock bottom end with 50K original miles at stock
levels, sat in garage for 30 years
2000 Ford Expedition- Oxford White - Waiting on the Quest to be done to get a BTS transmission - Daily driver

#13 Aman

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 01:53 PM

Also, a forewarning. The reason I said you should use a metal piece in the female side instead is because my plastic piece bent and squished into the splined area and let a little window weld through. Still went on the gearbox well, but I thought I should warn someone.
1987 Chrysler Conquest - Originally Shetland beige - JDL EL divided T3 - Genuine HX35 8-blade - CXracing intercooler and piping - Trunk mount Optima Yellow -
TiAL 38MM MVS x 2 - Maxboost MPI running MS3 - CNP ignition - Stock head (Yeah, yeah, I know.) - Stock bottom end with 50K original miles at stock
levels, sat in garage for 30 years
2000 Ford Expedition- Oxford White - Waiting on the Quest to be done to get a BTS transmission - Daily driver

#14 vbrad511

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 05:41 PM

Like was said above, heat the tube of WW for a few minutes. Set a halogen close for a few minutes, should be fine. I've had to do this with urethane before.





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: window weld, steering socket coupler, steering coupler, steering socket, steering play

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