1G ('90-94) TURBO MAS conversion
Posted 08 March 2002 - 05:33 PM
Make SURE you get a 1G TURBO MAS and not the NA MAS because you will be downgrading! Your target cars are 1990-1994 TURBO Eclipse, Talon and Laser.You will also need the connector off the wire loom from the donor 1G turbo DSM.
The non turbo DSM MAS connector will not work for the swap
Take your time, solder your wires, tape it up nice and all should work out well. Just make certain you follow these instructions and make sure your wiring is correct.
After this install on my 20G set-up this gave me more fuel, less restrictions and pushed the fuel cut to some ungodly number like 30 psi or something. I never hit any fuel cut on the 1G MAS with 23PSI.
the wiring may be easier viewed this way:
>> Print this out if you want to do the mod <<
87/89 stock harness, looking at the wire side of the connector. " = " is the clip at the top of the connector.
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 1 2 3
x 4 5 6
match up 1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3, etc, leaving 7 unconnected, x is a slot with no wire in the DSM connector.
Here are the colors for those who get lost or need further assistance. It also helps verify you have the propper orientation when looking at the conenctor. the 87/89 connector:
1 - white/black
2 - large red
3 - green/red #1
4 - black/white #1
5 - black/white #2
6 - gren/red #2
the DSM connector:
1 - green/blue
2 - large red
3 - green/red
4 - green/black
5 - green/yellow
6 - green/orange
7 - green/white < un-used
In therory this will work on an 86 as well, I had an 88 on my 86 for a few weeks so I know they are compatable. I can post that color code as well, the colors are all different, and 1 wire needs to be added from a +12V switched source (IGN). If an 88 will work, so then will a 1-G DSM.
So how does it work? Awesome !! I noticed a substantial improvement in top end, and lost the stumble at about 3000-3500 I was having with the 88 MAS and my oversided injectors (flooding). I now run an oversized primary on an 88 ECU with this MAS. I hacked the bypass tube like Mike did and got a perfect mixture from idle to WOT at 6000 RPM. At the very least, this allows you to slightly raise the fuel pressure and not flood out in mid-throttle. Keep in mind my car has a butt load of mods, a less modded car probably won't notice as much difference. Stock cars may not want to hack the bypass tubes at first.
This is a viable solution to those with bad or flakey MAS's, these units are 1/3 the cost (~$40-$60) and 10 times more plentiful.
More hacking may even allow for running a secondary in the place of a primary, but then you get hard cold starts, I can eleborate on this in another post if any one is interested.
Posted 21 March 2002 - 06:05 PM
To be honest I don't know if it will pass emissions.
I haven't seen anyone posting failed smog test after the swap to flag a concern.
Posted 22 March 2002 - 02:15 PM
marnal 2v head
downpipe with 2 1/2" exhaust
10 lbs of boost
flat top hyper pistons (8.2:1 compression vs stock 7:1)
The car did feel to have more pick up off the line right after the install. No change in idle quality. I am running stock fuel injection/pump/fuel pressure.
Looking at the two meters together it is obvious that this meter frees up some more flow...every opening is bigger than stock...so from just the standpoint of high boost this meter HAS to allow more intake air at a given rpm. The air flow meter is a significant impediment to air flow. I would recommend for a modded motor or someone who has a bad meter and needs to replace their's....but on a stock car I think you should stay with the stock set up. My 2 cents. 8)
I also want to note that I did not hack my meter...strictly bolt in. Also you can use the stock air box and lid but the meter does not fit exactly perfect..some screws will not fit. You must have the talon/eclipse/laser air flow meter connector from the harness...the stock one is different and you MUST cut and splice. Be careful when doing the cutting to be sure you do not mix wires as some have the same pattern.
Posted 27 March 2002 - 09:33 PM
Posted 01 April 2002 - 01:38 PM
took the cardboard out? that's where it actually reads the airflow. In order to modify the dsm mas, you can remove the lower honeycomb, and back out the set screw so they center opening is free and unobstructed, and if you are really crafty you can part of the lower/unmetered section off to allow more unmetered airflow.
removing the cardboard will make it read inacurately, and is highly recomended against. as well as removing the upper honeycomb. The upper honeycomb produces small vortices , these vortices are read later in the cardboard section, this is karman vortice metering. if you tamper with that you have effectively killed your mas.
on another note, why wouldn't a 2G mas work with the starion then, since the 1G dsm'ers use it as an upgrade. Flows about 20% more air than the 1G mas.
Posted 01 April 2002 - 06:48 PM
The 2G MAS flows a lot and ends up throwing our Starion ECU fuel maps way out of their tables. You could however use an Apexi SAFC and use the 2G MAS.
Although the SAFC could also be used with a really hacked up Starion MAS with good results.
The 2G MAS on a DSM can have the injectors swapped out for larger ones which compensates for the larger 2GMAS. Due to the restrictions with the FI on a Starion injector selections are extremeky limited compared to the FI used on the DSMs
The 1G MAS is a quite a leap compared to the stock MAS.A 1G MAS is cheap, available, simple install and runs well with the Starion ECU, almost like a factory upgrade part in a sense.
Posted 02 April 2002 - 02:43 PM
Posted 10 May 2002 - 09:50 AM
What do you mean by "hacking the bypass tube", r u talking about the rubber hose that connects to the intake boot from the filter can lid? Damn, I plugged that long ago, lol. (I've got a 3" PVC pipe there now ) If this is what you mean, a little baby K&N filter there would be a trick solution.
Insta = @battlemagnet
Posted 11 May 2002 - 05:52 PM
What I did was cut right down the center making the once 2 circles one large oval. I had that MAS dialed in and flowing a heck of a lot than the stock MAS.
It drops in really nicely. More importantely it functions much better to the heartbeat of the car IMHO.
Posted 27 May 2002 - 06:07 AM
you can see the cold air intake I mentioned in the previous post in this picture
different angle on it.
Posted 12 June 2002 - 04:54 PM
That's it, KO. Also, you can order one online from Extreme Motorsports http://www.extrememotorsports.com/ for $40 and have it shipped ground for only a couple of bucks. The only drawback to mounting the full 1g setup is a lack of support for the whole thing. On 1g DSM's, we just trim the support bracket very thin to fit the K&N and 1g DSM lid and voila, no damage to the K&N or MAF. I haven't noticed any damage to the filter using the 1g DSM lid on a Starquest (we have more room in that location and the firewall provides some support without damage or interference), but more mileage could tell a different story.
my two cents worth,
Posted 25 June 2002 - 05:38 PM
Posted 25 June 2002 - 09:18 PM
'86 Conquest TSi - RIP baby, you've been good to me.
Posted 19 July 2002 - 10:59 AM
Posted 21 July 2002 - 10:37 AM
It seems that I finally found one but need to confirm.
Posted 03 August 2002 - 05:15 PM
Keep in mind this is for a 87/89 ecu, but it should still work. The only diffrence that I can see is that the 87/89 mas and ecu have a barometric sensor on them. On the 87/89 mas connector the last two wires (#5 b/w & #6 g/r) are for that.
Someone please correct if I am wrong.
[glow=blue,2,300]86 AFS/MAS 1G AFS/MAS[/glow]
New > A 16----------------Green/Yellow
New > +12v Switched-----Red
1."N/C" means "no connect"
2. A 16, A is the connect on the ecu (the lage 24 pin one) & 16 is the pin number on that connector.
3.Keep in mind that A 16 is only on a 87/89 ecu and this is for the barometric sensor I believe.
4.On a 86 you DO NOT connect the A 16 to 1g's Green/Yellow
Hope this helps....let me know if this works.
I have an 87esi-r so I haven't tried it.
Posted 06 August 2002 - 02:52 PM
I was looking at the manual, electrical section, one of the gren and red wires goes to the tps and the other one to the computer. This 1G AFS has an extra wire that we are not using. Could it be to "exite" the fuel pump? With the swap I CAN'T hear my fuel pump anymore.
Does anyone have a friend that has the electrical scheme for the 1G AFS? I'm going to ask a local Mitsubishi mechanic that has a 90 talon turbo. He swaped his 1G AFS to the 2G and he seems to understand on electrical problems.
Posted 20 August 2002 - 10:30 PM
Savour kindness because cruelty is always possible later.............
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