87 To An 88-89 ECU Upgrade
Posted 16 August 2002 - 11:30 PM
"As many people that ask this and the answer is not in the FAQ as of yet.
This procedure is for 87 ONLY...86 and earlier are wired differently.
Remove the ECU from your 87. Have the 88-89 In hand with the 87. Go to a place where ou think there is not much static electricity around beause a static spark has the ability to destroy the ECU's.
1. Remove the covers on both ECU's, this is four screws on each one.
2. There are six screws on the bottom board of the 87 ECU. Three on top(plug side),
One in the middle and two on bottom. Remove the board.
3. There are two boards on the 88-89 ECU. Remove the three screws on the top
board. Move the top board out of the way a little bit. Now remove the screw
holding the main board on. The bottom side(opposite plug side and middle) have
three spacers between the two boards. If I remember correctly a 8mm wrench
will work. This should remove the 88-89 ECU from the 88-89 ECU CASE.
4. Return the 88-89 ECU into the 87 case. Replace the screws as you took them out
of the 88-89 case. Don't forget that the spacers go on the bottom to seperate the
5. Replace the 87 ECU COVER back on the case. The 88-89 will not work because
the screw holes on the side are different.
6. Replace the ECU back in your car plug it in and your ready to ride.
INFO: The cases ARE different between the 87 and the 88-89 ECU. The screw holes are different. This way you don't have to move anything and it is a straight swap over. This took me 15 minutes or less to do including the removal and installation of the ECU fromthe car.
89 TSi 14G, 2.5"Ex,21lb.Flyw, Sht.Shift, SS Hoses,1G MAS/K&N,
125psi F.Pump, Type-H BOV /H-Pipes, 9" Rears, ST's, KYB's.
2008 Toyota Tundra Crew Cab
2014 Silverado Texas Edition
2016 Escalade Platinum Edition
Posted 22 October 2002 - 09:17 AM
Posted 01 September 2003 - 01:12 PM
I've done this swap. It's real quick and easy, just don't touch any of the circuitry as static may short out the internals.
ANOTHER HINT....you may want to check that pin #4 is indeed getting a proper ground before finishing the re-install. Unless that is getting a strong ground, you may want to bridge a chassis ground of of it. (This is also the ground you'd use to wire an A/F ratio gauge.
Now Done: 7.5:1 .35 Wiseco rebuild w/ crank scraper; 274 Magna roller cam & 1.55 rockers; mod port AMC head; 1mm>valves; Innovate WB; GM alt/rewired; 3" 240 alum radiator, elec fans; BMW X5 oil separator exh. crankcase vent; gas tank renewed; D2s; sway/strut bars; LT1 T56 clutch & trans swap w/ Fidanza; 4.22 rear; 265 Kumos on SHP rears; new steering pump/box/lines & coupler fix: http://www.starquest...howtopic=139558; full dash/console rewire - Autometer, push start, etc.
In Progress: breakin & tune
Future: Enjoy driving again; meets & local shows; AC; WG reroute from open vent to exh; Water/Meth?; body/paint
FOR SALE: Rear Camber plates (basic); NIB beefy U-joints(2); etc.see--> http://www.starquest...howtopic=133262 Custom 5 gauge overlay panel: http://www.starquest...pic=136703&st=0
Posted 15 September 2003 - 03:19 AM
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Posted 22 January 2005 - 01:47 AM
My body lay, but still i roam...
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My body lay, but still i roam...
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