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TPS/ISC adjustment  Pre 1987


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#1 ryddler

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Posted 30 July 2002 - 08:53 PM

Credit goes to Metric-Man for sending this to me:

1.      Engine must be at operating temperature. All accessories OFF, front wheels in forward position (Minimal RPM strain from power steering pump)

2.      After engine is warmed-up, turn ignition off.

3.      Loosen accelerator cable so it is completely slack  

4.       Loosen TPS screws and rotate TPS all the way clockwise and secure screws

5.      Turn ignition switch ON for more than 15 seconds then turn OFF  . (This sets ISC to it specified position.)

6.      Disconnect ISC motor connector

7.       Start engine

8.       Set idle speed with adjustment screw. (850  RPM +/- 100 RPM)

9.       Stop engine

10.     Connect voltmeter to top terminals on TPS connector. (See page 14 -12 of Factory manual)(cool.gif= Black & (GW=Green w/White stripe) Mike C  likes to pull the rubber insulator out of the top of the connector to get a good connection on the wires. I like to use T-Pins to probe in through the top of the connector then attach with alligator adapter clips to the voltmeter

11.     Ignition switch ON do not start engine

12.     Loosen TPS screws and slowly turn TPS counterclockwise/clockwise to set  correct voltage.

13.     Set voltage to 0.45 - 0.51 ( optimal=0.48 )

14.     Tighten TPS screws without changing setting achieved in step 13.

15.     Snap Throttle plate ( pull up on "throttle lever" vertically and let go ) (use throttle lever not cable incase cable kinks or binds)  

16.     Re-check and if needed re-adjust TPS to correct voltage

17.     Re-connect ISC motor connector.

18.    Start engine

19.    Adjust idle to  (850  RPM +/- 100 RPM)

20.    Shut engine off.

21.    Turn ignition to the ON position for 15 seconds then turn to OFF position

22.     Tighten and adjust accelerator cable - 1+ mm free play

23.     Make sure ISC control switch (just) touches stopper on throttle lever (lever accelerator cable is attached to)

24.    Start engine

25.     Confirm Correct Curb Idle Speed
ryddler
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#2 85Quest

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Posted 19 September 2002 - 06:10 PM

This post by sight looks to be indenticle to the instructions in the Shop Manual. If anyone would like a scan of it, or any other thing out of it, I have the Shop Manual and will do so. Let me know.

#3 Tim_C.

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Posted 29 October 2002 - 09:57 PM

After doing all of that, it is good to pull the negative battery cable for 30 seconds to reset the ECU, so that no codes are in it.

Tim C.
'87TSi .510Roller Cam, JE Forged, TS Rings & plateau honed walls, lightened rods, race prepped crank, mains line honed, balanced, 17C, 3"EX, 2"HardPipes, AlFly, rrfpr, 88trans, 3.90's w/posi plate mods, polyBushings, STSprings, KYBStruts, Camber Plates, CustomAlternator
Traded for new set of tires for my wife's Buick: '87 TSI Gold that needs just about all steering and suspension parts replaced, injectors, a new transmission, clutch, and various electrical gremlins. New owner is a mechanic who is already driving it. I couldn't stand letting it sit any more!
'86 ESiR - OEM Roller Cam, Wiseco Forged 8:1 Pistons, Chad's equal length header, TEP T3/T4 turbo, ACT HD clutch, Fidanza Fly, custom 3" exhaust, 3 core oversized radiator, O-ringed block, AJUSA metal shim head gasket, Dawes Device boost controller
'85 Plymouth Conquest Auto , Wiseco 8:1, super light pins, shaved rods, hi-torque cam, 2.5 Exhaust
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#4 Superfro

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Posted 23 November 2002 - 08:36 AM

holy crap, that looks hard to do

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#5 Ray_R

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Posted 23 November 2002 - 06:07 PM

its not hard at all, its just a long process and gets quicker after doing it a couple of times.  it helps to have the instructions right in front of you when doing it and a good digital voltmeter is a must.  just as long as you know what every step is asking you to do it should be a breeze.




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