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1989 Quest 4g63 Swap


DSMconquest
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Here is my '89 Conquest with 80k on the odometer getting the 4g63 swap. Its pretty far along and now I am at the point where I am just waiting for parts to get shipped to me. I am using one of Bill Hincher's trans adapters for the w-series trans. The wiring is done and everything that should be getting power does. All the lights, locks, windows, etc work. A few more weeks and hopefully it will be ready to start up. Here are some pictures of how it is currently resting in the garage.

 

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P3270588.jpg

 

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P3270590.jpg

 

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P3270602.jpg

 

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P3270599.jpg

 

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P3270598.jpg

 

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P3270593.jpg

 

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P3270594.jpg

 

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P3270591.jpg

Edited by DSMconquest
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yes indeed verry nice.. everytime i see a 4g swap i want it more and more. but then i want to do a 1jzgte swap as well.. ahh choices.. and money. whats it cost your so far? how far does that notch in the firewall go back? any pics of the motor mount setup. and what kind of block and head are you using?

 

im planning on doing a swap sometime next year. but as i said im still debating between a 4g swap or a 1jz swap. so i figure i can just gather as much info as possible until then?

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Very nice, CLEAN, looking swap, excellent looking work. Might want to go ahead and change out the strut bearing supports, they look original and since you have it up in the air, now is the time. I only say because of the added weight of the new engine? Are you planning on a different suspension set up? Nice work.
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The hole in the firewall goes back 4 inches into the cabin. I just made the box out of carbon fiber and sealed it to the firewall with 3M window weld. The engine is a 1g DSM 6 bolt and the head is also 1g head. I try and not think about the total cost of build. When I get new parts I basically just throw the receipt out because it would make me sick if I added everything up. I am sure the swap could be completed for about 2k or so if you source the parts right and can handle the fabrication. Ill post some pictures of the motor mounts when I get around to taking some.

 

The suspension is still the factory SHP units. At this point I just want to get the car running and get the engine tuned before I do suspension work. Been waiting to drive it for too long. Eventually Ill get the mr2 inserts and coilovers, but I'm not stressing it. Thanks for the compliments guys. Should be able to post some more pics in a few days whenever parts arrive.

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are you using the stock starion tranny.. i keep reading they are not compatible. with 1g blocks that you would need a narrow block from a mightymax or something like that

 

he said in his first post he's using Bill Hincher's trans adapters for the w-series trans. Which is a great choice instead of using the D50/ mighty max trans, because No they stock starion trans won't bolt to the 4g63 block like he's using. Only the 4g64 block like I am about to use :)

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The hole in the firewall goes back 4 inches into the cabin. I just made the box out of carbon fiber and sealed it to the firewall with 3M window weld. The engine is a 1g DSM 6 bolt and the head is also 1g head. I try and not think about the total cost of build. When I get new parts I basically just throw the receipt out because it would make me sick if I added everything up. I am sure the swap could be completed for about 2k or so if you source the parts right and can handle the fabrication. Ill post some pictures of the motor mounts when I get around to taking some.

 

The suspension is still the factory SHP units. At this point I just want to get the car running and get the engine tuned before I do suspension work. Been waiting to drive it for too long. Eventually Ill get the mr2 inserts and coilovers, but I'm not stressing it. Thanks for the compliments guys. Should be able to post some more pics in a few days whenever parts arrive.

 

 

the money will come back in spades ( if you can actually depart with the car after the build) I got no idea what Mitsubishi was thinking when they didnt use the 4G63 over the G54b engine in the first place

But a well done conversion that your doing will pay for itself in years to come, a well done hot rod is like money in the bank, the older it gets the more its worth

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he said in his first post he's using Bill Hincher's trans adapters for the w-series trans. Which is a great choice instead of using the D50/ mighty max trans, because No they stock starion trans won't bolt to the 4g63 block like he's using. Only the 4g64 block like I am about to use :)

 

 

Didn't catch that thanks. Now I regret not pulling the motor from my 1G gst when i sold the shell.. The timing belt broke while I was driving. But I would have rebuilt it.

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Thanks Bill... couldn't have done it without ya making me the intake and bellhousing. Ill have to drive it up to your shop this summer so you can check it out.

 

I had to look twice to even tell that intake was welded.

 

Looks great.

 

After seeing your turbo clearance , I think I'm going to have a problem tucking the HX in there.

 

Turbo and manifold ?

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I am just running a MHI 20g and a ported 2g manifold. I was thinking bout running Holset, but I got this turbo for $200 so I couldn't pass it up.

 

Good deal on the 20G , frank ?

 

The Holset compressor housing is considerably larger , the BEP turbine housing angles it away from the block some too , so I figure it will be close after seeing your setup.

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  • 5 weeks later...

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P4290007.jpg

 

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P4290008-1.jpg

 

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/th_P4290009.jpg

 

Finally got it up and running. I still need to get some stuff finished up before it starts tearing up the streets. The main thing is the downpipe with tial mvs wastegate stills needs fabbed up so it can build boost.

 

I dunno what I did in the process of getting it to start up, cause now my dash lights and certain gauges do not work. All the head lights, tail lights, turns, flashers, door lights, dome lights, high beams, low beams, fogs, everything but the dash lights work. Any suggestions? I am pretty sure my dimmer switch is bad. Anyone have a spare?

 

Also, some of the gauges do not work. The coolant temp and gas gauge stopped functioning. The oil pressure, speedo, tach, and volts all work. The coolant gauge really pisses me off cause I need it to work. Its just one wire from the temperature switch (1 wire on DSMs) to the cluster. I have checked the wiring, gauge, and replaced the sensor. Does anybody know what may be causing this?

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OUTSTANDING WORK!

 

excellent attention to detail and great layout!

that increased the value of your car too >;o)

 

make sure to ground your engine to your frame, in a couple places and make sure your graound starps reach the ground to your dash/gauge curcuits

I usually attach a larger guage wire from the engine block to the brake master cylinder because that is close to where your instrument cluster is

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I did not use the Starion temperature switch, I used the one for the 4g63. Engine coolant temperature gauge unit resistance for both sensors at 70°C (158”F) is 104 ohms +-13.5. So I do not see why it would be an issue using either switch. Please correct me if I am wrong.
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alright well thats not it then, where is the sender though? On my truck i had to ground out the area where the sensor was to get a reading. It was a in a thermostat housing that wasn't on the motor so there was no ground for the signal...Don't know if thats your problem just saying. Could be a bad gauge cluster or did you see it work previously?
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http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/1121092311a.jpg

 

Here is a pic of the thermostat housing on my car. Both the coolant temperature sensor and the temperature switch are in this housing. It is attached to the head and may need to be grounded like you said. When the car was parked 5 years ago when I went to college everything was working. I even tested the resistance of each gauge in the instrument cluster and all that checked out ok. Thanks for your input and hopefully I can get this fixed.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Here is a pic I found of my car in someones album for the DSMshootout 2010. There have been some changes since then, but the car is currently hibernating for the winter. Hopefully I'll get a proper photo shoot at the beginning of next season.

 

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/20100814-20100814-IMG_1114.jpg

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