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ScribeWorks Starion ChumpCar Build

Conquest Starion Chumpcar Road Race Endurance Build Thread Lemons Scribe

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#21 Scribe

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Posted 19 June 2017 - 07:09 AM

 creakyjoints, on 16 June 2017 - 12:39 PM, said:

Hefty cage. Seems over kill to me for it's intended use.

The cage is definitely overkill for Chumpcar.  They only require about half the bars that are currently in the CAD model.  The CAD model is showing that the cage weighs 115 lbs.  We set a new goal to get the cage under 100 lbs, so we'll be doing a little bit analysis to see which bars are not helping as much as we think they are.  That said, our #1 priority is to make sure the cage is safe.  We will be renting seat time to other people at races in order to help keep race costs in check and we do not want anyone getting hurt in our car.


 Funky Phil, on 18 June 2017 - 11:27 AM, said:

You cant overkill safety.

Can you upgrade your turbine wheel? What are the specific rules regarding the turbocharger. The exhaust will be you biggest problem.

Rules say that a different/upgraded turbo would be 100 pts.  That said, if we were to upgrade the turbine, I'm not sure anyone would notice.  The tech inspectors are mainly there to make sure your car is safe and getting protested for rules violations usually falls more into the responsibility of your fellow competitors.  The top five cars at every race are sent to impound and everyone at the track can have a very close look at your car.  Protests are rarely filed these days.  However, we want to keep the car as legal as possible as we feel it already has a pretty good advantage over a lot of the cars that currently race.
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#22 Scribe

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Posted 05 July 2017 - 12:45 PM

As mentioned in a previous post, we were planning to acid dip the chassis after installing the roll cage.  We decided to do the acid dip before welding the cage in.  We went this direction mainly because we wanted to be able to safely weld on the chassis, and we were having trouble getting out seam sealer in hard-to-reach places.  The acid dipping process removes the galvanizing from the metal, so you no longer have to worry about zinc oxide exposure when welding to it.  We fully stripped the car down to the bare chassis and weighed it so we could do a before and after weight comparison.  After that, it was off to International Paint Stripping.

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The acid dipping process does not involve the removal of any metal.  What does come off is all of the paint, seam sealer, undercoating, dirt, glue, etc.  All that is left when you are done is bare sheet metal.  Fortunately, there is a place that does acid dipping about 15 minutes from my house!  I dropped it off on the 22nd and it was finished by the 28th.  We are pretty impressed by the result.  The chassis lost 24 lbs after acid dipping.  Some weight will be added back when we re-paint the car and weld up the seams, but that is still a significant amount of weight to lose.  We also got the hood, fenders, doors, side-skirts, and front panel acid dipped.

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While the car was at International Paint Stripping, it gave me the opportunity to make some garage updates including adding an air conditioner and finally running a 220V line for the welder.  We are now all set for the roll cage, which should start coming together this weekend.

Edited by Scribe, 05 July 2017 - 12:48 PM.

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#23 randy

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Posted 05 July 2017 - 05:01 PM

Man I really like this project process that acid dipping look's great.

#24 TexasQuest

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Posted 05 July 2017 - 08:17 PM

Wow that is awesome! Seems like a better alternative to sand blasting.
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

#25 importwarrior

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 07:06 AM

Amazing!

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#26 scott87star

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 08:00 AM

We'd all like to start with something so clean!
Now selling true plug and play megasquirt!  Absolutely the best value in stand alone ECU's out there.

I can upgrade your Fuel Injection Pro firmware

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#27 creakyjoints

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 04:02 AM

How much?
the dude in the honda said, i thought you said your car was slow, my response was.. well you said yours was fast so i guess we both lied.. haha

#28 Scribe

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 06:16 AM

 creakyjoints, on 07 July 2017 - 04:02 AM, said:

How much?

I got quotes between $1000 and $3800 for just the chassis from four different places.  The cheapest one happened to be 15 minutes from my house.
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#29 EricSQ

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 02:20 PM

Screw painting it now.  I'd smooth it down with sand paper and Brillo pads then clearcoat it.  At least the public would quit confusing it with a Supra and start confusing it with a DeLorean  :D
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#30 Scribe

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Posted 11 September 2017 - 01:54 PM

Update 09/11/17

The last few months have been a blur with little to no work done on the Starion.  Lots of work, weddings, and races.  We finally made some progress on the car over the last week or so.  The Cage Gages I had sitting around for months finally got some use as we tackled bending the main roll hoop.  The first two bends where pretty much perfect as you can see below:

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The next two did not go completely according to plan and the main hoop ended up a little wider than expected.  It still fits in the car, but it's tight:

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We also continued our lightweighting work by gutting the doors, separating the hood from the outer skin, and removing the trunk floor for the fuel cell.  We are debating on either leaving the hood as just the skin or adding back some of the reinforcement.

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We also took apart one of the steering boxes.  The plan is to open up the hydraulic passages and grease it in order to de-power the steering system.

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This week we're hoping to finish removing any excess metal from the car and get some more tubes bent up before the end of the weekend.  We are also considering removing the roof skin in order to give us better access to welding the cage.  The alternative would be to drop the cage through the floor, but it may be difficult with the main hoop fitting so tightly.
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#31 speedyquest

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Posted 11 September 2017 - 02:29 PM

Looking good dude! You want it tight in there so I wouldn't worry about that at all personally. Could you actually give the measurements of the main hoop? I'd love to know what you ended up using.

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#32 Bradrock

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Posted 11 September 2017 - 07:43 PM

Thanks for the update! There may be a small market here for pre bent & notched roll cage kits. Maybe?
I'd do the acid if it was available around here. I see advantages to living in a metroploitan area like the motor city.
When I was stock car racing, if another driver protested, they had to PAY the tech crew for the teardown.
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#33 Scribe

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 10:06 AM

 speedyquest, on 11 September 2017 - 02:29 PM, said:

Looking good dude! You want it tight in there so I wouldn't worry about that at all personally. Could you actually give the measurements of the main hoop? I'd love to know what you ended up using.

Here are the measurements I used for the main hoop:

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The tubing used is 1.75x0.095" A513 DOM and I'm using a 5.5 in bend radius.  The main hoop ended up being about an inch too wide, but that was from measurement error.  If you build it to these measurements, it should fit pretty well.  I have about 1 inch extra on the legs that you would need to trim down built into the measurements.  I'd recommend having more excess length than that on the legs just in case.  The main hoop will also be mounted at a 10 degree angle towards the rear.

 Bradrock, on 11 September 2017 - 07:43 PM, said:

Thanks for the update! There may be a small market here for pre bent & notched roll cage kits. Maybe?
I'd do the acid if it was available around here. I see advantages to living in a metroploitan area like the motor city.
When I was stock car racing, if another driver protested, they had to PAY the tech crew for the teardown.

I'd say that would be a longshot as far as kits go.  However, I'd be happy to share all of the measurements with everyone once I'm done.

Edited by Scribe, 12 September 2017 - 12:41 PM.

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#34 speedyquest

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 10:34 AM

Thanks for sharing your measurements, its greatly appreciated. It will give me a great starting point for when I make mine. If you want to share your measurements for the rest of it I've love to see those too.

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#35 Fuze

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 09:43 AM

Great project! Very impressive process. I fantasize about clear-coating that acid dipped steel and leaving it as-is but the vintage livery is a cool idea.
Early on I noticed you plan to retain the stock rear ABS. That system is probably not worth the weight or extra complexity as it was always a poorly functioning system many of us just remove altogether,  resulting in better rear braking power but just my .02. Good luck and have fun!

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#36 mbruneaux

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 02:59 PM

Too cool!  more on this conversion to manual steering box?
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