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My 87 Conquest TSI Pro-Resto Mod.


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#1 Blackmount

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 03:01 PM

Hey guys, I thought I'd introduce my build thread for my conquest.

Back Story: I bought the car back in summer of 2014 from a buddy in Tennessee...I actually bought two cars from him, one was the conquest I have now, and one was a old Buschar Racing Starion..

PowerGlide Auto trans, 4G63, Drag Radials, Weld Wheels, Parachute, Caged, Fuel Cell, etc etc etc... Didn't run, unfinished car, Engine in it was just mock up... It use to have a Stock 4G63 with a 20G and nitrous in it back in the day I believe....I originally didn't wantthis car believe it or not because it didn't have a title, but he told me he would give me the Conquest for $900, and the Drag car for $100. So I paid him $1000, and put the Conquest on a trailer and hauled it back home to Wisconsin... I ended verbally giving the Starion back to him a few months later - I really just had no interest in a title less car, I attempted to track down the title to the car, even got ahold of the owner who built the car originally.

But here's some shots of it...

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The car was originally owned and built by "Turbo Tom" and can be seen here: http://starion.turbomirage.com/

Anyways, the Conquest, it had been sitting in his yard for quite sometime. He had a mostly completed LS Swap in the car with a T56 Trans...It really was just missing electrical, accessories, radiator, and steering setup.

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To save myself money I we agreed to pull the LS stuff out of it and the 83' Hood. I took back the original stock black hood for it.

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Rolled the car out into the drive way, where with the help of the weather, gave the car a bath before loading it up on the trailer.

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New Home, and told myself I would start working on it once I had more parts for it... It ended up sitting for a full year before I finally touched it :(

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The plans were to do this crazy ridiculous completely re-engineer the whole car, type build with a High Compression, 9,000 RPM, Individual Throttly Body Mitsubishi V6...

While some of that is still the course I plan to go with the car, I toned it down a little bit, and decided to put the stock G54B back in the car.. I still someday might do the 6G72 Swap on this car if not another StarQuest...but really I was just tired of seeing the car sit.

Finally got motivation one day and put the car on jackstands and started tearing parts off it. Brake lines, Fuel Lines. Looking over what the car needed cleaning it out, etc.The car is at my storage, and not my garage so this slows progress and makes me have low motivation at times :( I plan to move it before too long.

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and ordered a few hundred dollars worth of basic parts to help keep me motivated and working on the car, mainly brakes.... Also found some nice Sway bar endlinks not pictured here.

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Cleaned, Rebuilt, and painted the calipers.

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Old VS New Rear swaybar endlinks

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Wierdly enough a guy at a Ferrari Service Shop out towards Chicago had a lowish mile Trans laying around, I gladly ran the VR4 out there to pick it up.

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I had more pictures, especially of me taring everything off, but they seem to have gone missing :( Oh well, I promise I'll start pushing this car again I am road tripping this weekend to go pick up a full engine for it, and maybe some misc other parts.

Plans for the car.

To start off with, I really just want to get the damn thing running, and driving.

So expect a stock car, cleaned up,

- Reconditioned Stock Brakes
- New Fuel and Brake lines by me
- Freshly Cleaned interior
- Stock Wheels with sticky tires
- Custom built 2.5" Exhaust by me
- Aftermarket Clutch, and lightweight flywheel. Have to see what is out there, but I know I've seen a few options floating around.
- Maybe Custom built Intercooler and piping if I can find a clean enough stock setup.
- Manual Boost Controller
- Aftermarket All Aluminum Radiator
- Setrab Oil Cooler, and custom lines built by me

Drive and enjoy the car for awhile.

Future Mods include
Coilovers, or getting very creative with aftermarket struts being retro fitted into stock housings...
Mild Brake Upgrade, at least a better set of pads more oriented for Track use. Depends what I am limited to by keeping stock wheels, and what options I will gain by having Aftermarket wheels.
SHP Wheels or a very tasteful, fitting set of aftermarket wheels that actually fit the car's personality.
1 Off Carbonfiber Driveshaft
All new Polyurethane bushings
Aftermarket sway bars assuming you can still get the ones I've seen listed across the interwebs.
More Stock replacement parts
Custom Suspension bits most likely
Mild Cam + Light Head work maybe?
Aftermarket or Custom Turbo Manifold
MPI Conversion

I'm not really looking for big power or anything here - I'd like to make the car be reliable, efficient, and fun without any consideration on price. My end Goal would probably be somewhere in the 250-300whp Range...I want Something I can just get in and drive like both my 3000GT's. It's primary use will be occasional long road trips, and canyon style curvy road spirited driving.

I've been in the 4G63 and 3000GT Game for almost a full decade. I've seen everything from stock rebuilds to 1000awhp - but the G54B is a whole new animal to me, if you have any recommendations or things I should know right out the bat - feel free to let me know if you see me blindly walking into a mistake... I would really like to stay away from an Engine swap at all costs.... It would mean alot for me and this build to stick with the factory engine. I am not opposed to building the engine though if its necessary.





#2 speedyquest

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 03:10 PM

That is a great starting platform for you to build on. Good luck and if you have any questions or need something feel free to message me. I'm looking forward to see what you end up doing!

1987 Flatty Starion -- Widebody Conversion -- V-Mount Setup --  JDL Tubular Manifold  --  MX-6 Intake -- MS3-Pro -- AEM FPR  --  ARP head studs -- 3" hood exit exhaust -- Hahn Racecraft 16g --  Tial F38 Wastegate -- Tial Q Bov -- Short route piping -- 5 lug & LSD conversion -- Tubular Front End -- Manual Steering Rack Conversion -- Manual Brake Conversion -- Stack Digital Dash -- AEM UEGO -- D2 coilovers -- full GNT poly bushings & mounts -- four 8" rears -- car lightened significantly...  More to come!


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Build Thread --->  http://www.starquest...opic=143564&hl=


#3 importwarrior

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Posted 05 November 2016 - 06:52 PM

Wow nice. Just keep at it. It will be awesome.

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP
Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!
Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!

The Ark was built by amateurs , the Titanic was built by Professionals.


#4 Blackmount

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Posted 05 November 2016 - 11:38 PM

I got the engine today, brought it home and threw it on the stand..I already started pulling it apart and forgot to take a picture. It came with stock flywheel and a good looking clutch, but I think I am going to end up tossing those...probably keep the flywheel on the side just in case... You can see in the picture I already removed the A/C compressor.

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I ran out of time to night to REALLY tare into, So I plan to strip it down to at least bare long block tomorrow morning, then evaluate the engine, and go from there. I am going to pull the pan and see what the bottom end looks like. Hopefully everything is in great shape and I can get away with just basic maintenance and a few seals...

It already looks like the Rear Main Seal was leaking so that will be a must on my list.

I'm going to do some research tonight and see if I can't dig up anything I should absolutely do now besides obvious... Open for tips, suggestions, links, etc.

#5 importwarrior

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 05:46 AM

The best place for parts. Dad on this site AKA randy. Sells engine parts. Contact him.

http://www.enginemac...ms/conquest.php

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP
Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!
Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!

The Ark was built by amateurs , the Titanic was built by Professionals.


#6 Blackmount

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 08:04 AM

I've had that, and this site bookmarked for some time now.

http://www.racetep.com/starabout.html

I didn't see anything when I was looking through the newbie section and FAQ last night, Do these cars require regular Oil Pump replacement? Or if they are good they are good?

I'm use to the 3000GT Where the Oil Pump requires replacement every 120,000 miles.

Edited by Blackmount, 06 November 2016 - 08:13 AM.


#7 cheesey

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 09:46 AM

Just be careful with race tep. Some stuff is high priced for what it is.

#8 Blackmount

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 03:00 PM

Got the motor stripped down, bad news - but it was half expected.

Originally I just wanted to freshen it up, seals, and clean it, etc.. but as i was taring into it and removed the oil filter, out came metal shavings.

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Can see a little bit of it here, not bad, but still not good enough for me.

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Was pleasantly surprised how clean the cylinder head was though, and the valve cover

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I figured it was going to at least need head work, what I thought was originally a blown turbo from excessive oil in the out let of the turbine side of the turbo, but as i removed the turbo, manifold, etc all the ports were extremely oily, removed spark plugs and they were covered as well. The intake side was very clean so it definitely wasn't just feeding through the engine, so sounds like the Valve stems or something are completely shot.

dropped oil pan,see debris on oil pick up

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a crap load of whatever this is in the oil pan, large metallic debris that got picked up on my magnet when i ran it through, and dirt/sludge that was not magnetic.

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pulled rod bearings, this is about how they all looked, bad pitting on the bearing, wear wasn't terrible, worse on others

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The Crank Journals were 7/10. Little polishing and we should be ok...

Soooo Dirty.....

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All pistons and rods looked perfect, except this guy - looks like a little valve action at some point...guessing that's why this motor was rebuilt - I couldn't find any evidence of it happening anywhere else on the head or in the engine.

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Stripped Block, and now messy Garage.

Was admiring the differences between the G54B Crank (left) and 3000GT 6g72 DOHC Crank (Right) The G54B feels like a monster, and its rod journals are huge, I feel like it should be able to take some mild power...at least more then I am wanting.

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Pistons and Rods pushed to the side..

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Soooo now its time to go shopping and try to decide what I want to do with the engine...Since I am going to rebuild it, I think we are going to go a little further then I originally planned..

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#9 importwarrior

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 06:13 PM

Be sure to clean the oil lines and oil cooler real good. Even the oil filter where it mounts to the block.

Seen a few rebuilds and not clean them and the engine did not last long.

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP
Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!
Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!

The Ark was built by amateurs , the Titanic was built by Professionals.


#10 Blackmount

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 11:24 PM

That's probably what happened with this one, I couldn't find any real damage anywhere other then bearing ware from contaminated oil.

I have a rule that whenever there is any metal shavings in the oil, the entire oiling system goes in the trash and gets replaced with new parts...

I already mentioned I was planning on a setrab oil cooler, and will be making new lines.

#11 techboy

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 10:48 AM

Looks like you are off to a great start.  I'll be anxious to watch this thread and see where it goes from here.
1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#12 Blackmount

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Posted 08 November 2016 - 08:56 PM

Bad news. Pulling the head apart, and was struggling with the exhaust valve on cylinder 2. Once I finally got the valve out I found out why. The guide came with it, and the stem seal was gone...

For whatever reason Cylinder 2 was hitting the valve, and instead of bending the valve, the valve guide hole was taking the blow, enlarging the hole.

The valve guide drops freely through the head. There is a few millimeters worth of play, so head is trashed.

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#13 Bradrock

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Posted 08 November 2016 - 09:10 PM

I would think a good engine machine shop could repair the head. But I guess new castings are not terribly expensive.

Thanks for sharing the work in this thread. I enjoy these & always learn something.

Where is the drag car now? Think I could buy it for a hundred bucks? :D :D
Run's with scizzor's

#14 Blackmount

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Posted 08 November 2016 - 09:57 PM

View PostBradrock, on 08 November 2016 - 09:10 PM, said:

I would think a good engine machine shop could repair the head. But I guess new castings are not terribly expensive.

Thanks for sharing the work in this thread. I enjoy these & always learn something.

Where is the drag car now? Think I could buy it for a hundred bucks? :D :D

Unfortunately, the problem is not the valve guide itself, but the hole for the valve guide - earlier i posted picture with Valve to Piston impact on Cylinder 2. The valve was impacting the piston and instead of the valve bending, the valve guide hole was taking the blow causing the bore of the hole to become larger in larger. In the picture you can see the metal is pushed up around the edge..

The only way to fix it would be to weld the hole shut and drill it out again then press in a new guide. The labor cost for doing so would greatly surpass the cost of a replacement head since you can find freshly milled bare heads with new guides and sometimes even valves reasonably priced.

#15 speedyquest

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Posted 09 November 2016 - 10:43 AM

What exactly happened to the chassis that has the roll cage in the pictures above?

1987 Flatty Starion -- Widebody Conversion -- V-Mount Setup --  JDL Tubular Manifold  --  MX-6 Intake -- MS3-Pro -- AEM FPR  --  ARP head studs -- 3" hood exit exhaust -- Hahn Racecraft 16g --  Tial F38 Wastegate -- Tial Q Bov -- Short route piping -- 5 lug & LSD conversion -- Tubular Front End -- Manual Steering Rack Conversion -- Manual Brake Conversion -- Stack Digital Dash -- AEM UEGO -- D2 coilovers -- full GNT poly bushings & mounts -- four 8" rears -- car lightened significantly...  More to come!


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Build Thread --->  http://www.starquest...opic=143564&hl=


#16 Blackmount

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Posted 09 November 2016 - 11:14 AM

No idea, I believe my friend sold it after I gave it back to him.

#17 speedyquest

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Posted 09 November 2016 - 12:20 PM

I asked because that roll cage looked nice. Wouldn't mind having that chassis as a base for a build.

1987 Flatty Starion -- Widebody Conversion -- V-Mount Setup --  JDL Tubular Manifold  --  MX-6 Intake -- MS3-Pro -- AEM FPR  --  ARP head studs -- 3" hood exit exhaust -- Hahn Racecraft 16g --  Tial F38 Wastegate -- Tial Q Bov -- Short route piping -- 5 lug & LSD conversion -- Tubular Front End -- Manual Steering Rack Conversion -- Manual Brake Conversion -- Stack Digital Dash -- AEM UEGO -- D2 coilovers -- full GNT poly bushings & mounts -- four 8" rears -- car lightened significantly...  More to come!


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Build Thread --->  http://www.starquest...opic=143564&hl=


#18 TheDemon

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Posted 10 November 2016 - 03:52 AM

Blackmount keep up the good work man, always enjoy seeing how others go about fixing similar problems, i will be following your build to see how you are going about this and may have some input along the way but am mostly looking to learn here.
- The Demon
89 Black Conquest TSI SHP 5-speed - Restoration
97 Red Talon ESi - RIP

#19 Blackmount

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Posted 10 November 2016 - 10:42 AM

Thanks.

Ordered another round of parts today - Going to start on cleaning up the block, get it honed out, etc and ready to go when parts arrive so I can put it together. Hopefully no more surprises.

Once the engine is finished I will move back to the car and get it ready to put the motor in... I'd like to drive it at least once before Christmas, but it kinda depends on how busy work is. When it gets really cold we get pretty slammed, and suddenly 50 hour weeks turn into 70-90 hour weeks.

Car needs.

Make the Fuel System, and Have Tank Refurbished (maybe)
Finish Brakes, and Bleed System
Clean up wheels and install New Tires
New Clutch, and Lightweight Flywheel
New Steering Box
Trans and Diff Fluids
Make Intercooler and Piping
Build Oil Cooler lines, and buy Oil Cooler.
Rebuild Turbo OR Replace/Upgrade

Edited by Blackmount, 10 November 2016 - 10:42 AM.


#20 Blackmount

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 09:34 AM

So here is just Edited, quick updated list of what I am doing with the car right off the bat, it changed alot due to the amount of work the Engine needs..

- Reconditioned Stock Brakes
- New Fuel System
- Freshly Cleaned interior
- Stock Wheels with sticky tires
- Custom built 2.5" Exhaust by me
- Aftermarket Clutch, and lightweight flywheel.
- Custom built Intercooler
- Basic Manual Boost Controller
- Aftermarket All Aluminum Radiator
- Setrab Oil Cooler, With custom lines built by me
- Stock Rebuild with Clevite Race Bearings, and new rings.
- ARP Rod Bolts
- ARP Head Studs
- Schneider 6610 Heavy Duty valve spring kit
- AJUSA MLS Head Gasket
- New Stock Valves
- New Stock Cylinder, Head Ported
- Mild Cam *Need to research that more*
- Porting to the Throttle Body and Manifold where I can
- New, Stainless Steel Manifold
- TD05H EVOIII-16G
- Larger Injectors (Recommend me sizes?)
- Unsure what I will use for tuning right now *HALPPP MEEE*

Edited by Blackmount, 12 November 2016 - 09:36 AM.





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